Rabbets for cabinet Back Board

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Forum topic by 1voyager1 posted 03-16-2016 01:07 AM 1286 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View 1voyager1's profile


74 posts in 1456 days

03-16-2016 01:07 AM

Well, my garage cabinet project is moving along again.
Got the, work bench, out feed table, router extension table and a few of the jigs needed for this project finished.

I’ve actually finished the routing for the banding and have glued it into place.
The holes for the corner dowels and the dowels are in place.
I’m ready to drill the shelf pin holes, the jig is made.

I’m seeing one problem I ‘d like a bit of advice for.

The rabbet for the back board will be easy enough to cut.
It is straight through the top and bottom pieces.
It will need to terminate at about 1/2 the thickness of the 3/4” PW from the ends of the side pieces.
I can use the router [table or manually], or the stacked dado blades on the table saw.

The side pieces,, that will need the rabbets, are about 48” long with the rabbets stopping about 3/8” from the ends.

Best and/or easiest ways to accomplish this?

-- Every mighty oak is nothing more than a nut that has stood it's ground.

5 replies so far

View conifur's profile


955 posts in 1175 days

#1 posted 03-16-2016 02:27 AM

Router, with end stops and then finish ends with a hand chisel, too big to do on a router table or table saw.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View builtinbkyn's profile


2364 posts in 964 days

#2 posted 03-16-2016 02:58 AM

Put the carcass together, then route your rabbet around the rear of the carcass and clean up the corners to receive the back panel. That’s what rabbeting bits with a bearing are for. Or just route the rabbet on the sides without a stop. You won’t see the exposed end of the rabbet under the top or on the bottom.

-- Bill, Yo! Brooklyn & Steel City :)

View clin's profile


851 posts in 1020 days

#3 posted 03-16-2016 04:40 AM

Wouldn’t you typically cut a rabbet in the sides for the top and bottom, as well as the back?

If so, then everything goes together without any open spaces or holes from the rabbets.

-- Clin

View 1voyager1's profile


74 posts in 1456 days

#4 posted 03-16-2016 06:09 PM

OK guys,
You’ve unclogged my brain.
The plan that I worked from has the top & bottom pieces butting up to the side pieces.
I thought about cutting miters for the joints, but as the pieces were already cut, I decided to add dowels to the butt joints instead to make them stronger.
Cutting the rabbets in the top and bottom pieces is no problem because it runs the full length of the piece.

@ builtinbkyn
I didn’t like the idea of balancing the router on the edges of the pieces to make the cuts.
Plus, to use a trim bit to cut the rabbets, the bearing would need to have a smaller radius than the cutter.
I do not have one of those.
If such am animal even exists, I would need to order one, adding another delay to getting started on getting these cabinets made.

@ conifur
That is the route I’ll take for this.
I do have a straight edge jig that I made for long cuts with either the circular saw or the router.
I do not like using it.
It feels “inaccurate” to me.
But, as long as it is accurately clamped into place, it will guide the router to as accurate of a cut as one can get working with wood.

That last statement indicates my problem.
Almost all of my hand fabrication experience since my first real job as a template maker, has been working with metals.
Wood just feels to me like a sloppy material to work with.
Hopefully I’ll get over it.

-- Every mighty oak is nothing more than a nut that has stood it's ground.

View MadMark's profile


979 posts in 1477 days

#5 posted 03-16-2016 08:42 PM

You leave ‘em show out the back & front. The drawer face will cover the front and no-one will normally ever see the back.


-- Madmark -

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