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Table saw blade burn and stock puling away from fence

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Forum topic by MFFI526 posted 03-15-2016 05:27 AM 1197 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MFFI526

5 posts in 270 days


03-15-2016 05:27 AM

Gentlemen I’ve been dealing with a problem for some time now. When I push my stock thru my table saw, it starts to pull away from the fence and I have to apply pressure on the outfield side to keep it straight.

1. I have insured that the fence is parallel to he miter slot and the blade too. Several times
2. I changed out saw blades
3. I’ve adjusted the the trunion to within .001

1 I have not checked the arbor to see is its bent ( brand new grizzly cabinet table saw)

I don’t know what I did but I had the saw set perfect for a while.

Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

E.


18 replies so far

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

1959 posts in 1455 days


#1 posted 03-15-2016 10:54 AM

It would help to know what blade, how old the blade is and what you are cutting.

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hotbyte

844 posts in 2442 days


#2 posted 03-15-2016 10:59 AM

Is riving knife installed and aligned with blade correctly?

View matador8's profile

matador8

27 posts in 1283 days


#3 posted 03-15-2016 11:39 AM

Hi MFFI526,

You could do something like this. I have a feather board on my fence for holding the timber down and I made a jig for holding timber against the fence. I have put photos up to show how I use it and it stops kick back. I had made this 4 years ago and it is the best thing I built. But now I have added a piece of metal to where the safety guard went it is a bit thinner than the blade but I have added a half moon piece of plastic on the fence side to it so when the timber goes through to out feed side it keeps that put against the fence. This is a new idea I came up with last week. Because even with the jig and the feather board the timber still wanted to move away from the fence on the out feed side. So that is why I came with that idea I haven’t taken any photos of it yet but when I do I will post them. !https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/o42wjlw.jpg!

I hope the photos went ok. As you can see in one of the photos there is two magnets they are out of old hard drives. I hope that helps.

Graham.

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Tennessee

2410 posts in 1981 days


#4 posted 03-15-2016 11:41 AM

Assuming that everything you have done is right, good and done perfectly, is there a chance that the fence end closest to you is moving, not the wood? It would still cut straight since you push it back against the fence and the far end of the fence stays put.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

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MFFI526

5 posts in 270 days


#5 posted 03-15-2016 02:12 PM

1. I have tried four different blades, three of which are brand new diablos. Lately I’ve been cutting 3/4 birch ply, poplar.

2. The riving knife was not installed when I first noticed it, I installed it and no change. Double checked alignment

3. I use a feather board, but the work piece still pushes away from the fence after the cut.

4. Have not noticed if the fence is moving at either end. I’ve realigned the fence, blade and trunnion at least four time in accordance with the setup manual.

Thank you for your responses,

View DanielP's profile

DanielP

489 posts in 1359 days


#6 posted 03-15-2016 02:20 PM

Is your insert bending downward as you push wood through.

-- --- Dan

View WhoMe's profile

WhoMe

1471 posts in 2710 days


#7 posted 03-15-2016 02:34 PM

I didn’t see you mention this but after you make a cut, is the cut straight? In other words. If you are trying to cut a square piece, is it still square after the cut?
Also, you’re title mentions burning. It’s the wood burning when cutting naturally and on which side of the blade. Or is it burning only when you push the wood against the fence ?

Unfortunately I have no recommendations right now, but just the questions above.

-- I'm not clumsy.. It's just the floor hates me, the tables and chairs are bullies, the wall gets in the way AAANNNDDD table saws BITE my fingers!!!.. - Mike -

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7224 posts in 2842 days


#8 posted 03-15-2016 03:14 PM

Are the work pieces flat and have a straight reference edge against the fence? If so, I’d check that fence is straight. It’d also be worth double checking the alignment. How are crosscuts?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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MFFI526

5 posts in 270 days


#9 posted 03-15-2016 03:17 PM

If I just push the stock thru and do nothing to keep it against the fence it still cuts square. The burning only happens on the outside of the cut and only if I hold the piece against the fence.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2198 posts in 948 days


#10 posted 03-15-2016 03:30 PM

The answer is not featherboards but finding out the problem.

As others have mentioned, if the stock against the fence is jointed and true AND the blade is parallel to the fence, what you are describing is not possible to happen.

I believe the problem is with the fence and that is where to start. How are you checking for parallel? Have you checked to see you fence is flat and true? The fence to blade distance should be a few thou wider at the far end of the blade.

Raise the blade all the way up and make measurements using the same tooth.

Hope you figure it out.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View mrg's profile

mrg

659 posts in 2466 days


#11 posted 03-15-2016 10:38 PM

Post photos so we can see the issue. Picture of fence, blade and wood.

-- mrg

View chiseler's profile

chiseler

121 posts in 355 days


#12 posted 03-17-2016 05:13 AM



If I just push the stock thru and do nothing to keep it against the fence it still cuts square. The burning only happens on the outside of the cut and only if I hold the piece against the fence.

- MFFI526


This tells me that the blade is not in line with the fence or there is wobble in the blade caused by the arbor not running true since you’ve tried a number of blades.Did you try:raising the blade all the way,measure from front tooth to fence,take that same tooth and rotate it to the back of the saw and measure again,I’m from the school that you should have about a 1/64th more in the back than the front to prevent pinching the work piece at the back of the blade possibly causing any burning or kick back.This works for me.Also check the arbor for run out.

-- Scott.Triangle,NY Becareful and don't forget...They cut meat too!

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MFFI526

5 posts in 270 days


#13 posted 03-18-2016 02:50 AM

To start I would like to say thank you to everyone who replied to my issues. I’m new to the Lumberjock and very glad I joined the forum. I took another look at the fence and blade parallelism and the back end of the blade is almost a 1/8 off. I don’t know how I missed that after numerous checks but I did. I guess I got one too many blasts to the head or I’m getting old or both. I’ll square up the fence and blade first thing tomorrow. I’ll let you all know how it works out.

Thanks again

E

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knotscott

7224 posts in 2842 days


#14 posted 03-18-2016 09:30 AM

Glad it was something easy to fix. Thanks for the update.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

3927 posts in 2710 days


#15 posted 03-19-2016 03:57 PM

How straight is straight in regard to the fence? It only takes a couple of thousands away from perfectly straight to cause burning. Also if you are using a thin kerf blade, it may be “fluttering” and that could cause the body of the blade to contact the wood. Check the blades to see if there are any scuff marks on the plate. You may need blade stabilizers to stiffen the blade. Are you using a rip blade or a combination blade?

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