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Fingerprint Rust

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Forum topic by Walnut_Weasel posted 03-03-2010 04:00 PM 1186 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Walnut_Weasel

360 posts in 2690 days


03-03-2010 04:00 PM

I am apparently cursed with extremely acidic sweat! I have been fighting rust problems due to fingerprints left on my plane (and to a lesser degree chisel.) I can start off the day with zero rust and literally by the afternoon I can see a fine film of rust beginning to build on the tool. Here is what I do immediately after finishing up my work every night:

1) Wipe tools off with dry cloth to remove prints
2) Wipe tools down with a light coat of oil
3) Store tools in a sealed container with desiccant

Even with all of this, I am still getting rust from finger/hand prints – especially on the cast iron of the plane. I assume that I need to wipe down the tool with some sort of cleaner to remove all of the fingerprint oil but I am concerned about using something that may impact my finish. Does anyone have any recommendations? I was thinking denatured alcohol?

-- James - www.walnutweasel.wordpress.com


8 replies so far

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51452 posts in 2948 days


#1 posted 03-03-2010 04:46 PM

I would try waxing the plane base with a non silicon car wax.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View SKFrog16's profile

SKFrog16

661 posts in 2668 days


#2 posted 03-03-2010 04:48 PM

I too suffer from sweaty rust prints. But an old timer taught me a small trick that was carried over from the days of old. Apply a thin coat of bees wax from time to time to the cast iron and carbon steel pieces. The wax repels water and seals the metal from moisture in the air to help prevent rusting. Also, it is neutral to wood.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

#3 posted 03-03-2010 05:00 PM

How ‘bout that nasty acetone based aerosol stuff called Top-Cote (or maybe even Dri-Cote)? Maybe that will seal your tools from moisture and at the same time make them more slick?? Neither product leaves residue on the wood that it comes in contact with…at least this is true in my experience…

-- Lane Custom Guitars and Basses

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Walnut_Weasel

360 posts in 2690 days


#4 posted 03-03-2010 05:21 PM

I have a block of bees wax that I use on the sole while planing. It does not take a lot of passes before it is worn off. Perhaps I should soften a small portion of it with oil so that it is able to soak down into the pores for a good base coat and then continue to apply the hard wax over the top.

-- James - www.walnutweasel.wordpress.com

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12642 posts in 3565 days


#5 posted 03-04-2010 06:29 AM

I use Renaissance Wax

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003235/462/Renaissance-Wax.aspx

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View drfixit's profile

drfixit

318 posts in 2612 days


#6 posted 03-04-2010 07:03 AM

I just use Johnsons Paste Wax on all my steel.

-- I GIVE UP!!!! I've cut this @!&*!% board 3 times.... its still too short!

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

1283 posts in 3205 days


#7 posted 03-04-2010 07:33 AM

I only use talcum powder on all of my tool surfaces. You might try it on the planes and chisels.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View Marc5's profile

Marc5

304 posts in 2810 days


#8 posted 03-04-2010 12:03 PM

I use Camella oil on my planes and paste wax on all of my power tools.

-- Marc

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