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Coplanar: your Bandsaw wheels not only aren't, they're not supposed to be

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Forum topic by CharlesA posted 03-14-2016 01:34 PM 1254 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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CharlesA

3098 posts in 1343 days


03-14-2016 01:34 PM

I re-watched the famous Alex Snodgrass bandsaw video again just to remind myself before I adjust my bandsaw again, and I picked up something I had ignored before: his argument that bandsaws are designed not to have coplanar wheels and no one should adjust them to be coplanar because they become way more difficult to adjust. Seems like I regularly read about folks trying to make their wheels coplanar. Interesting that he begs folks never to adjust the wheels. One more thing off my to-do list.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson


11 replies so far

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

314 posts in 2007 days


#1 posted 03-14-2016 02:02 PM

There is more lore regarding coplaner wheels than anything else in WW. The tracking function on the saw adjusts for any inaccuracies in the tires, weld and wheel alignment. Because of that tracking function, the wheels will theoretical never be coplaner, so it’s a exercise in futility. The same thing with drift… I have seen people post about eliminating draft by adjusting this and that on the saw, but really it’s a simple fence adjustment. We overthink a lot of things in the shop, but it helps to pull back and realize these machine are simple in premise and set-up…

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CharlesA

3098 posts in 1343 days


#2 posted 03-14-2016 02:09 PM

According to Snodgrass, if you did get them coplanar, any tiny mis-adjustment would lead to the blade running off the wheels. then again, he says if you have drift, you set your saw up incorrectly and that no bandsaw should have drift.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4531 posts in 3505 days


#3 posted 03-14-2016 02:49 PM

Ah, the land of coplanar. It is on the map right next to Oz and Shangrila. Folks who live there always sharpen their plane irons to a 20,000 grit nanonuclear dimension to achieve submicron shavings, measure wood cuts to within .0005”, and never, NEVER get splinters.
I’m gonna move there one of these days.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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jbay

1039 posts in 444 days


#4 posted 03-14-2016 02:57 PM



Ah, the land of coplanar. It is on the map right next to Oz and Shangrila. Folks who live there always sharpen their plane irons to a 20,000 grit nanonuclear dimension to achieve submicron shavings, measure wood cuts to within .0005”, and never, NEVER get splinters. I m gonna move there one of these days.
Bill

- Bill White


You could share a place with madmark!

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View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

812 posts in 1780 days


#5 posted 03-14-2016 03:28 PM

I tried everything, or so it seemed, then I went by Snodgrass’ instructions and now I only have operator error.

-- Jerry

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pintodeluxe

5054 posts in 2358 days


#6 posted 03-14-2016 03:31 PM

I have seen his presentation at the woodworking shows, and a lot of it is good information. I think not fighting coplanar makes sense.

The “no blade drift” concept only works for me while my blade is razor sharp, which is about 3 days when resawing white oak. After that, I think my bandsaw truly cuts better allowing for its natural inclination to drift. Maybe if you have access to a carbide tipped blade it would be easier. Your results may vary.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2451 posts in 2467 days


#7 posted 03-15-2016 02:06 AM


I have seen his presentation at the woodworking shows, and a lot of it is good information. I think not fighting coplanar makes sense.

The “no blade drift” concept only works for me while my blade is razor sharp, which is about 3 days when resawing white oak. After that, I think my bandsaw truly cuts better allowing for its natural inclination to drift. Maybe if you have access to a carbide tipped blade it would be easier. Your results may vary.

- pintodeluxe I had trouble with “Drift” and I re-saw a lot. I found what works best for me is sharp blades. I use carbide blades and I re-sharpen them. I use a fixed re-saw fence (not adjustable) and when the blade starts to wander I re-sharpen it using a Dremel type tool. Takes ten minutes.


-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

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bearkatwood

1290 posts in 557 days


#8 posted 03-15-2016 02:22 AM

Very interesting conversation, thanks for the info CharlesA.

-- Brian Noel

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Redoak49

2171 posts in 1534 days


#9 posted 03-15-2016 11:00 AM

Not only is Snodgrass entertaining but is correct. I have used a bandsaw a lot and finally watched his video and set up my bandsaw as he suggests. Wow…it runs great now.

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Tennessee

2450 posts in 2059 days


#10 posted 03-15-2016 11:35 AM

+100 for Snodgrass.
First time I ever watched his videos, (quite a while ago), I was amazed at how out of position my bandsaws were.

Now, if I have drift, it is my signal that my blade is starting to dull, not because the saw is set up wrong.
And ironically, on my big Grizzly, I can push a dull blade a long time if I am careful and cut slowly.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7627 posts in 1552 days


#11 posted 03-15-2016 01:55 PM



Ah, the land of coplanar. It is on the map right next to Oz and Shangrila. Folks who live there always sharpen their plane irons to a 20,000 grit nanonuclear dimension to achieve submicron shavings, measure wood cuts to within .0005”, and never, NEVER get splinters.
I m gonna move there one of these days.
Bill

- Bill White

Now THIS, made me laugh out loud !

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

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