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Zero Clearance Inserts and Height Adjustment

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Forum topic by IowaWoodcrafter posted 733 days ago 281 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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IowaWoodcrafter

256 posts in 976 days


733 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: set screw zero clearance insert

Last night I made a couple zero clearance inserts for my table saw. This is the first time I’ve ever had any. I used 1/2” baltic birch plywood with counter top style laminate. The inserts weren’t quite tall enough so I removed the set screws used to adjust the height from the standard insert. I drilled four holes in the insert and screwed in the set screws. This worked like a charm, but then I realized I might need to use the standard insert. I also want to make several inserts for various size dado widths.

So, the problem I realized was that I needed some more set screws. I emailed Grizzly to find out how much they would be. They responded and said $1 each, which seemed pretty high to me. The best part though was that they sent me the specifications for the screws 1/4” Diameter, 20 TPI x 1/2” Length. So, I do a Google search and find a company that sells this type of set screws for $2.50 per box of 100. I happily begin to place my order and found out that shipping was going to be $5.00. So, I increased the order to two boxes, still $5.00 for shipping. So now I’ve got 200 set screws coming that cost me roughly 6 cents each. If anybody is looking for some set screws check out Jordan Industrial Supply. If you don’t want to order 200 send me a message and I’ll send you some cheap.

-- Owen Johnson - aka IowaWoodcrafter

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Blake

2763 posts in 774 days


733 days ago

I appreciate the offer… but did you check your local hardware store? I had to buy some for my router plate last week and they are readily available and cheap (at least in my area).

-- Check out my new website! http://www.blakeweberwoodworking.com

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Sawdust2

1190 posts in 987 days


732 days ago

But this way he can have 50 zero insert plates.

I’m a lot stingier. I use pine, not good Baltic birch.

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

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alanealane

174 posts in 790 days


732 days ago

If you can find a market for selling those screws @ the Grizzly price….WELL THEN!!! You could go on vacation a lot more often. ;-D

-- Lane Custom Guitars and Basses

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4013 posts in 862 days


732 days ago

Let me see if I got this right; you didn’t want to spend $4 so you spent $7.50 and now have 196 screws left over? LOL That’s the American way. I’m laughing with you, pardner, I do it too.

-- Thos. Angle

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

951 posts in 782 days


732 days ago

We loose money on every product we sell, but make up for it on volume.

I’ll keep your offer in mind,
Steve

-- Stevethepeeve -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View Blake's profile

Blake

2763 posts in 774 days


732 days ago

Zero clearance inserts are a good idea in general. I found the hardwood ones that I would make tended to warp, cup or sag over time. I now use the (Phlemonic? Phlomonic? Phelmonic? Phlobotomy? Phelmonic?) ...plastic ones.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.blakeweberwoodworking.com

View IowaWoodcrafter's profile

IowaWoodcrafter

256 posts in 976 days


732 days ago

Thos.

I want to have about 8 inserts in the following formats…

1 for the blade set at the standard 90 degrees
1 for the blade set at 45 degrees
1 for a dado set to 3/4”
1 for a dado set to 1/2”
1 for a dado set to 1/4”
Dado’s set for standard plywood thicknesses, (so three more there).

That would have been $32 plus shipping. I think I saved some money doing it this way.

-- Owen Johnson - aka IowaWoodcrafter

View Mark Mazzo's profile

Mark Mazzo

343 posts in 812 days


732 days ago

I typically just use duct/masking tape to level my zero-clearance inserts. Cheap and effective if there is only a little bit of adjustment to do.

Hey Blake: That’s Phenolic ;-) I just use 1/2” MDF, seems to be very stable.

-- Mark, Webster New York, Visit my website at http://thecraftsmanspath.com

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

9555 posts in 888 days


732 days ago

I use 1/2 cabinet grade plywood and make about 5-7 at a time. Then I glue a thin piece of wood in each
corner thicker than needed. Then I run them all through my drum sander to sand down the pieces of wood until they are the right thickness to make the plate sit flush with my top.

Never any adjustment needed after that.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4013 posts in 862 days


732 days ago

You did good. Just pulling your leg.

-- Thos. Angle

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