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Finishing cafe tables

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Forum topic by Ben posted 03-12-2016 09:01 PM 604 views 1 time favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ben

267 posts in 2323 days


03-12-2016 09:01 PM

It’s look like I will be commissioned to build (8) 24X30” wood tables for my local food co-op’s dining area.

Exact design not yet determined, but probably Maple or Cherry, glued up, maybe 1 1/2” thick or so.

I’m wondering what a good choice of finish might be for these. They will be see constant use and be cleaned withi detergents, etc. every day. Is a polyurethane enough? Bar-top two part epoxy stuff?

Also, on something this size I’m wondering about the need for breadboard ends. I’m thinking they would not be necessary, but I want to do something extra “nice” on these as it will be a high visibility showcase for me.

Thanks!


11 replies so far

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

2575 posts in 1723 days


#1 posted 03-12-2016 11:46 PM

Ben, if I were to do this, I would use Target's poly with the cross linker to produce a very durable finish. Others will likely have more knowledgeable and better suggestions. :)

-- Art

View CueballRosendaul's profile

CueballRosendaul

484 posts in 1606 days


#2 posted 03-13-2016 12:55 AM

I finished our coffee and side tables with some leftover hardwood floor finish. It was a semi gloss from Varathane. They’re bulletproof now after several coats. It’s a water based poly, so best to raise the grain and knock it down again before applying any finish, and a bit of steel wool before the final two coats. The best floor finishes have aluminim oxide in them. If it’s tough enough for a floor, it’s plenty tough enough for a table top.

-- Matt CueBall Rosendaul. I don't think I've ever had a cup of coffee that didn't have cat hair or sawdust in it.

View Drew's profile

Drew

304 posts in 2566 days


#3 posted 03-13-2016 01:20 AM

My favorite waterborne finish for restaurant tables is hands down Target EM tech 8000cv.
I’ve sprayed it on hundreds of tops, along with alot of other products, and it is by far my favorite.
I’ve been hearing great things about Ilvas new 2k too. I haven’t tried it yet…. No reason to, I like 8000 to much.

-- TruCraftFurniture.com

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1063 posts in 1456 days


#4 posted 03-13-2016 05:21 PM

Drew, do you have any experience with 9000 poly? Curious how 8000 and 9000 compare.

Ben if you havent used wb finish, it can look a bit dead. I use shellac under wb topcoats to pop the grain.

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Drew

304 posts in 2566 days


#5 posted 03-13-2016 08:50 PM

9000 is a true water white. I use it on everything I paint. 8000 has some amber to it. I love it’s color! As for durability? I’ve never put 9000 to the test.
I have though with 9300 and was very happy with it, but I’ve found 8000 to be more durable, easier to spray and better looking… Although 9300 doesn’t look bad

-- TruCraftFurniture.com

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

2575 posts in 1723 days


#6 posted 03-13-2016 10:17 PM

OSU and Ben, Here is a post from Jeff Weiss, Target’s president and a really nice guy. He indicates that the main difference between the EM8000 and EM9000 is primarily color with the EM8000 offering some slight yellowing. So it is your call depending on the look you want to achieve. I would use the CL100 with either product for the additional durability. HTH

-- Art

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Drew

304 posts in 2566 days


#7 posted 03-14-2016 03:54 PM


I would use the CL100 with either product for the additional durability. HTH

- AandCstyle

I have not had good results shooting anything with CL100 in it. Therefore I don’t use it.
I would suggest trying it out on scrape (which you should always do with something new) and seeing how it shoots for you.

-- TruCraftFurniture.com

View ClammyBallz's profile

ClammyBallz

309 posts in 603 days


#8 posted 03-14-2016 07:05 PM

Drew,

What was your issue with the CL100? I’ve been using 8000 with the CL100 for the aquarium stands I build. The first time I used it, I sprayed 2 coats of 8000, which went on fine, then sprayed the final coat with 8000 mixed with CL100. When I sprayed it, it produced a finish that was a little stringy. I was a little disappointed, but I was able to sand it out and move on. I think I rushed it though and didn’t give it enough time to react since it was only an hour. Same issue on the second one I sprayed. On the third one I sprayed, I stirred it using the drill and a paint stirrer egg beater for a solid minute and left it react for 4 hours, strained it through a 300 micron mesh and it sprayed like it’s supposed to. I’ve had no issues with it since then as long as I follow this procedure.

View Ben's profile

Ben

267 posts in 2323 days


#9 posted 03-14-2016 07:11 PM

Thanks guys.
Can the 9000 or 8000 be brushed on?
I don’t have spray equipment.

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1063 posts in 1456 days


#10 posted 03-14-2016 07:32 PM

I have brushed 9000, but not a top the size you have. Foam brush recommended. I believe its doable. You could get 3 to 4 strokes before it would start to set up. Use the retarder, SA-5 I think.

I have used CL-100 in both 9000 and 6000 with great success. Didnt notice any difference in spraying them. I followed the mixing and reaction times/directions. Use it in the last coat only.

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

2575 posts in 1723 days


#11 posted 03-14-2016 10:17 PM

Drew & Clammy, I find that really curious. I have never experienced any issues with CL100 nor have I seen others post anything similar. You might call Jeff Weiss to ask his opinion.

Ben, I have brushed EM6000 (not recommended by Target), but it kind of foams up around edges and corners. Aside from that, the finish was acceptable to me.

OSU, I think 2 coats with the CL100 are recommended.

-- Art

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