Router Plate

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Forum topic by Rich Lewis posted 02-27-2010 07:28 PM 1674 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Rich Lewis

3 posts in 2433 days

02-27-2010 07:28 PM

I just acquired a De Walt “woodworker’s table saw.” Model DW 746, 1 3/4 hp, 220 v, 52 in fence, L/H sliding table. The previous owner put in a cutout on the right table for a router. The problem I have is that it is 9 1/4 X 11 3/4 and 1/2 inch deep. Since all the router plates I have see are 8 3/4 X 11 3/4 and 1/4 inch deep, I have some options to consider. My first choice wolud be to buy some material, Lexan, polycarbonate or phenolic and cut it out myself (cheaper) or fill in the hole and re-cut for a standard plate (Allowing me to add a router lift in the future). What would you do?

-- Rich--Still setting up shop (does that ever end?)

8 replies so far

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Rich Lewis

3 posts in 2433 days

#1 posted 02-27-2010 07:33 PM

Sorry guys I just did a search and the consensus is aluminum. So now the only thing I am asking is how to go about doing it?

-- Rich--Still setting up shop (does that ever end?)

View cliffton's profile


117 posts in 2504 days

#2 posted 02-27-2010 07:43 PM

I just made a router plate myself this weekend out of .25 inch steel. at your local steel shop it should be about 7 dollars a foot for 10×12 .25 inch steel. and usually they can cut it for you too to your dimensions for usually a dollar a cut. (at least thats what my local guys charge) I even had them cut the center hole and i drilled the mount holes.

you could also ask your local metal shop if they supply aluminum as well.

View woodworm's profile


14164 posts in 3013 days

#3 posted 02-27-2010 07:44 PM

If you can easily get lexan/phenolic at your nearest stores, its more fun to build it to your own dimension and size. It also depend on the router bits you’re having (easier to shape these material using router).
I purchased mine at Woodpeck together with the template and 1/2” template/pattern bit because I could not find store selling the lexan/acrylic sheet in small size.
Good Luck!

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

View mikedddd's profile


146 posts in 2653 days

#4 posted 02-27-2010 08:30 PM


Both Jessem and Woodpecker make plates and lifts that are 9-1/4” X 11-3/4” X 3/8” deep. If you used one of theres you would have to shim it up 1/8” if your cutout is 1/2” deep, but that should be easy.

-- Mike

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Rich Lewis

3 posts in 2433 days

#5 posted 02-28-2010 06:26 PM

Thanks to all of you for helping me out (Think I’m going for the Woodpecker phenolic blank) and for making me feel welcome. I guess I’ll stick around.

-- Rich--Still setting up shop (does that ever end?)

View EEngineer's profile


1054 posts in 3036 days

#6 posted 02-28-2010 10:56 PM

As mikedddd pointed out, one standard router plate is 9 1/4 X 11 3/4 X 3/8. I wonder if the extra 1/8 is taken up by leveling screws? Even if the extra space is not taken entirely by the leveling screws, my router table (someone else routed for the plate before I got it) had ~ 1/8 hardwood inserts glued into place rather then letting the leveling screws work into soft plywood.

I’d think again about phenolic plate. The reason consensus (here and elsewhere) is aluminum is because of flexing issues. Aluminum 3/8 plate simply doesn’t sag.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View mikedddd's profile


146 posts in 2653 days

#7 posted 03-01-2010 04:15 AM

I agree I would think again on the phenolic, I’ve had a phenolic plate in the past and I wasn’t satisfied with it. I have an aluminum lift in my router table and an aluminum plate mounted in the right wing of my table saw.

-- Mike

View lilredweldingrod's profile


2495 posts in 2530 days

#8 posted 03-02-2010 01:15 AM

If you have a bandsaw, you can cut a piece of Aluminum with a bymetal blade, 10tpi. While you are cutting use a spray bottle with a water/dishsoap mix to cool the blade and stop the teeth from filling with aluminum. I’ve cut a lot of small aluminum parts this way when I used to build gasoline tankers. This will work on up to 3/4 material. This wat you can find a flat piece and make it yourself. Don’t let anyone try to sell on “only a plazma cutter”. A regular hole saw will cut your center hole. Besure to use the soap/water while you are cutting. If you go this way and have any questions, just PM me. Rand
PS How rude of me….Welcome to Lumgerjocks!

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