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Forum topic by charlemagne posted 02-27-2010 12:46 PM 2561 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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charlemagne

9 posts in 2486 days


02-27-2010 12:46 PM

Hello,

I’m looking for Japan dryer, but can’t seem to find it in Europe.

I stumbled across this site though, with 2 recipies for making your own Japan Dryer.

http://chestofbooks.com/reference/Encyclopedia-Of-Practical-Receipts-And-Processes/Drying-Oils-and-Dryers-Continued.html

Go down to 2741 and 2472.

Could the linseed oil be changed for Tung oil or is linseed imperative for Japan Dryer ?

-- If it's possible i'll try making it with wood


9 replies so far

View hObOmOnk's profile

hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 3595 days


#1 posted 02-27-2010 02:37 PM

The recipes that you cited use lead. Not a good idea. :(

Why do you even need Japan Dryer?

Modern “boiled linseed oil” and most oil-based varnishes already contain metallic drying salts.

Tung oil doesn’t really require Japan Dryer.

-- 温故知新

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charlemagne

9 posts in 2486 days


#2 posted 02-28-2010 11:15 AM

Didn’t know lead would be an issue.

I need it for pure tung oil. Pure tung takes about 2 weeks to fully dry, i’ve had problems in the past with it coz it hadn’t fully hardened.

-- If it's possible i'll try making it with wood

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7798 posts in 2771 days


#3 posted 02-28-2010 02:24 PM

maybe a close line would work…:)>....coudnt resist…

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

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hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 3595 days


#4 posted 02-28-2010 03:37 PM

You are probably applying the tung oil improperly or you might be using the wrong finish for the intended wood/project.

A final solution starts with the ubiquitous question:

What is it you are trying to do?

-- 温故知新

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charlemagne

9 posts in 2486 days


#5 posted 02-28-2010 04:39 PM

I’m thinning the first coat with 50% white spirit, as it says on the tin, less thinner for the subsequent coats and leaving 48 hours between coats. All this in a heated room.

I’m coating a skin on frame kayak frame at the moment, but would like to use it on present and future furniture projects, like my workbench stool or a simple alder table.

-- If it's possible i'll try making it with wood

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hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 3595 days


#6 posted 02-28-2010 06:55 PM

”I’m coating a skin on frame kayak frame at the moment”

Do you mean you are applying the tung oil to canvas or wood?

-- 温故知新

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charlemagne

9 posts in 2486 days


#7 posted 02-28-2010 10:14 PM

the frame is wood

-- If it's possible i'll try making it with wood

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hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 3595 days


#8 posted 03-01-2010 01:25 PM

In most cases, tung oil is a better ingredient than a single-component finishing solution.
Based upon your intended application, have you considered a good spar varnish, e.g. Epifanes?
You want a long oil varnish, preferably phenolic resin and tung oil based.

Another alternative is to mix tung oil, exterior varnish and white spirits in a blend of about 1/3 each component. This mixture should be applied in very thin coats, wipe off the excess and allow to dry at least 48 hours between applications.

Some things that cause raw tung oil finishes to fail include:

  • Not building up the finish in thin layers with adequate drying time between applications. Note: Wipe on the tung oil in thin layers, then wipe off the excess.
  • The drying environment is too cold or the humidity is too high.
  • Some woods, such as cedar, contain natural oils that inhibit the proper drying of tung oil.

-- 温故知新

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charlemagne

9 posts in 2486 days


#9 posted 03-01-2010 07:12 PM

Varnish of any kind is no good for the frame, as it will eventually, and without a doubt, crack and water will get under it. And when skinned you can’t reach the whole frame anymore.

-- If it's possible i'll try making it with wood

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