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Vibrating bandsaw help needed

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Forum topic by Polishcannon posted 03-05-2016 11:30 PM 556 views 1 time favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Polishcannon

38 posts in 341 days


03-05-2016 11:30 PM

I am currently building a multipurpose shop table, its primary use will be as an outfeed table. I decided to build the frame with some 3×3 stock, and use mortise and tenon joinery. Today I pulled out my bandsaw for the first time. I have a 14” Rockwell with a riser block installed. I put a new 3/4” blade on it for making my shoulder cuts and some future re-sawing. I also installed a new tensioning spring before using. The blade seem to track well and it cut great, but there seem to be an excessive amount of vibration while cutting. The saw sits in a mobile base, and has an enclosed stand. I have had it for years but, this is the first time using it for a project. I am looking for help with eliminating some of the vibration and tuning the saw up.


12 replies so far

View NSBruce's profile

NSBruce

169 posts in 571 days


#1 posted 03-05-2016 11:43 PM

You might try putting a bit more tension on your blade and alos check to see if your pulleys are runing square to each other( motor to blade)
Bruce

-- NSBruce

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#2 posted 03-05-2016 11:50 PM

Sounds like you are trying to push that saw past it’s limits – a 3/4” blade is really pushing it, even without a riser.

Here is the obligatory band saw tune up video:
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

Cheers,
Brad

PS: On my 14” Delta, without a riser, 1/2” is about as wide as it can realistically handle – even though the manual states 3/4 is the max.

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Ripthorn's profile

Ripthorn

1406 posts in 2451 days


#3 posted 03-06-2016 12:07 AM

The most likely culprit is that the belt developed a set from not being used. Try a new belt. A link belt was the single biggest improvement to vibration control on my bandsaw when I was getting it up and going after sitting in a shed for many years.

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

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Polishcannon

38 posts in 341 days


#4 posted 03-06-2016 01:45 AM

The saw cut the material like butter, so the belt comments sound more like the issue. I will check the belt tracking and get a segmented belt. Thanks for all the input.

View TheWoodRaccoon's profile

TheWoodRaccoon

364 posts in 395 days


#5 posted 03-06-2016 02:46 AM


The saw cut the material like butter, so the belt comments sound more like the issue. I will check the belt tracking and get a segmented belt. Thanks for all the input.

- Polishcannon

When people say that 3/4 inch blades are too much, that’s in regards to tensioning and how much support the crown of the tire gives to the blade. Using a blade bigger than 1/2 inch puts alot of stress on the saw, and 3/4 inch blades require more tension than a typical 14 inch bandsaw can supply.

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

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Polishcannon

38 posts in 341 days


#6 posted 03-06-2016 03:18 AM

Regarding tensioning, I replace the original spring with an Iturra spring. This aftermarket spring allows for greater tension to be utilized. I agree factory springs do not allow for the necessary tension. Most are not even equal to half of what the blade scale reads or requires. As far as what the tires can handle, you may have a point. The vibration I experienced did seem to originate from the base of the saw. I appreciate your input and will try a smaller blade to test the hypothesis.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#7 posted 03-06-2016 03:23 AM

Regarding tensioning, I replace the original spring with an Iturra spring. This aftermarket spring allows for greater tension to be utilized.

Unless your original spring was bottoming out, a replacement one will not do anything. The problem with trying to use a large blade is the amount of tension needed will cause more flex on the frame (and even worse with a riser), and will put too much force on the pivot bracket – causing it to eventually bend/deform/break. But if it works for you, go for it.

As for isolating the vibration, try first running without a blade. If you still have vibration, try running without the belt. You should be able to determine where the vibration is originating from.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Polishcannon's profile

Polishcannon

38 posts in 341 days


#8 posted 03-06-2016 03:40 AM

Ok. I will remove the blade and run the saw. Sound advice. Thanks for the info on large blades.

View TheWoodRaccoon's profile

TheWoodRaccoon

364 posts in 395 days


#9 posted 03-06-2016 04:07 AM



Regarding tensioning, I replace the original spring with an Iturra spring. This aftermarket spring allows for greater tension to be utilized. I agree factory springs do not allow for the necessary tension. Most are not even equal to half of what the blade scale reads or requires. As far as what the tires can handle, you may have a point. The vibration I experienced did seem to originate from the base of the saw. I appreciate your input and will try a smaller blade to test the hypothesis.

- Polishcannon

Here’s a good way to isolate any vibration:

Run the motor by itself with the pulley removed from the motor’s shaft. If there’s no vibration, put the pulley on the motor and run it. If there’s no vibration, attach the drive belt (make sure both pulleys are perfectly aligned and square with each other.), then remove the lower wheel and run it. Those three steps will tell you if the motor and pulleys are balanced. If there’s still no vibration, re-attach the lower wheel and run it with no blade. That will tell you if the lower wheel is balanced. Then put on a small blade and run the saw. Then try it with a big blade.

This is what i did to test my saw! After all that, you should know what’s causing the vibration. Hope this helps!

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

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Polishcannon

38 posts in 341 days


#10 posted 03-06-2016 04:22 AM

I watch the Snodgrass bandsaw video. It was great. Thank you.

View Polishcannon's profile

Polishcannon

38 posts in 341 days


#11 posted 03-13-2016 07:45 PM

MrUnix & Woodracoon
I had some time today in the shop, and removed the 3/4” bandsaw blade. I ran the saw without any blade and the excessive vibration was gone. You guys were right about the blade issue. I will scale down to a 1/2” blade.
Thank you
Polishcannon

View toolie's profile

toolie

2025 posts in 2094 days


#12 posted 03-14-2016 07:48 PM

Do yourself a favor and get a Lennox blade from Iturra design. No one welds BS blades like Lou iturra. A similar blade took a POS 18” Jet BS from useless to useful. If your wheels are balanced, then a vibrstion problem will probably be blade based. Don’t waste time on those lousy timber wolf blades either. There’s a reason they run 4 for the price of three promotions, and it’s not because they are good guys or that their blades are superior products, IMHO.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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