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Help with wiring a new heater

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Forum topic by Northerner posted 03-05-2016 06:18 PM 885 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Northerner

88 posts in 2620 days


03-05-2016 06:18 PM

im hoping someone here is an electrician besides a woodworker?

i bought a new heater for my shop and the dang thing didnt come with a power cord, probably why it was so cheap?

below are pictures of the plug and the 10ga wire. i just need to know which wires go where? obviously i know where the green wire goes as that one is labeled simple enough.

thanks!!

-- I love the smell of sawdust in the morning!


24 replies so far

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Northerner

88 posts in 2620 days


#1 posted 03-05-2016 06:23 PM

-- I love the smell of sawdust in the morning!

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

423 posts in 585 days


#2 posted 03-05-2016 06:40 PM

green to green, white to silver, black to gold.

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1592 posts in 2319 days


#3 posted 03-05-2016 06:43 PM

Since this should be 240V circuit, it doesn’t matter which black or white wire is connected to which non-ground terminal, both are “hot” unlike a 120V circuit.

Are you sure the heater doesn’t require a neutral wire to provide 120V to the fan?

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View Northerner's profile

Northerner

88 posts in 2620 days


#4 posted 03-05-2016 06:50 PM

thanks for the help, but i dont think their is a silver terminal? but if either black or white can go to either blade terminal it shouldnt matter then?

attached is the wiring diagram for inside of heater, if that helps in any way?

-- I love the smell of sawdust in the morning!

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1592 posts in 2319 days


#5 posted 03-05-2016 06:59 PM

Yes, that should be fine, hook the two hot wires (black and white) to the two non-ground terminals on the plug (and the ground to the ground terminal on the plug). Hook the black and white wires to the L1 and L2 terminals (one to each, color code not important) and the ground wire to the ground screw terminal on the equipment.

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View Lee's profile

Lee

49 posts in 338 days


#6 posted 03-05-2016 07:02 PM

Herb is right about the 240v , but I noticed you have 10 AWG wire which is rated for 30 amps and a 20 amp plug and that’s OK but you need to see what the heater wattage is, if its over 3500 watts you need to go with a 30 amp plug and receptacle, breaker, and 10 AWG wire from the breaker, hope this helps

-- Colombia Custom woodworking

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

423 posts in 585 days


#7 posted 03-05-2016 07:03 PM


- Northerner

I failed to see it was 240v but as such HerbC is correct…doesn’t matter. As for his other question, your diagram shows on L1 and L2 (L means line which means “incoming”). Fan controls must be internal to the heater.

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teejk02

423 posts in 585 days


#8 posted 03-05-2016 07:03 PM

dup.

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1592 posts in 2319 days


#9 posted 03-05-2016 07:09 PM

+1 to Lee on the appropriate plug. Of course this means that you will probably have to change the receptacle to match the appropriate plug. (And of course the circuit wiring and circuit breaker need to be correctly sized…

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View MadMark's profile

MadMark

976 posts in 913 days


#10 posted 03-05-2016 09:05 PM

That plug is NEMA 6-20, you need a NEMA 6-30P & R pair. The wiring shows 220v. Color other than ground doesn’t matter but convention is to follow the black/brass white/silver standard. It is normal to tag the White wire with a bit of tape or HS tubing to help remind that the 220vac white is not a neutral.

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

423 posts in 585 days


#11 posted 03-05-2016 09:49 PM



+1 to Lee on the appropriate plug. Of course this means that you will probably have to change the receptacle to match the appropriate plug. (And of course the circuit wiring and circuit breaker need to be correctly sized…
Herb
- HerbC
yup…just complicated things a lot but I see the rating is 5,000 watts…dryer/range territory isn’t it?

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Northerner

88 posts in 2620 days


#12 posted 03-07-2016 05:38 AM

well this really sucks big time! i will have to order the plug someplace as this is the only one i found in my town.
i wonder who would have what i need at a good price. this is getting more expensive and the good deal on this heater is starting to go downhill rather quick!

-- I love the smell of sawdust in the morning!

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5764 posts in 946 days


#13 posted 03-07-2016 05:53 AM

A 3 wire 30A 250v dryer cord (or cord cap) and receptacle shouldn’t be hard to come by.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Timberwolf323's profile

Timberwolf323

65 posts in 303 days


#14 posted 03-07-2016 06:06 AM

I would think you don’t need a plug. Just hardware it to a 30a DPST wall switch. And 10a wire for good measure. That’s what I would do. But I’m not an electrician.

View MadMark's profile

MadMark

976 posts in 913 days


#15 posted 03-08-2016 02:09 AM

Wall switches are normally designed for 14 ga wire, you’ll need a $35 ‘heater’ switch for 10 ga. Both 220vac legs need to be opened to de-energize the device. Using a standard SPST or SPDT switch will create a deathtrap.

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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