LumberJocks

Saw inserts

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by MrRon posted 03-05-2016 05:22 PM 922 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View MrRon's profile

MrRon

4126 posts in 2906 days


03-05-2016 05:22 PM

I make my own table saw blade inserts. I make them flat from plywood, but after some time, the insert bows up in the middle leaving a raised insert. If I adjust it down, the leading and trailing edges are below the top of the table. My question is; what is the best material to make inserts from that will remain flat?


24 replies so far

View bearkatwood's profile

bearkatwood

1341 posts in 674 days


#1 posted 03-05-2016 05:28 PM

I made my insert from MDF and it has held up well so far.

You can read about it here

-- Brian Noel

View xeddog's profile

xeddog

164 posts in 2670 days


#2 posted 03-05-2016 05:36 PM

I have made some from some old discarded Corian counter top. They have held up VERY well and have remained flat.

Wayne

View unbob's profile

unbob

766 posts in 1566 days


#3 posted 03-05-2016 05:51 PM

Same problem as Ron, using the crappy birch or whatever plywood from HD. I use a block plane to get the lumps out. I need to find something better also.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4439 posts in 2156 days


#4 posted 03-05-2016 05:53 PM

I’ve used hard maple and had no problems.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View SuperCubber's profile

SuperCubber

961 posts in 1947 days


#5 posted 03-05-2016 06:03 PM

I just made one from melamine, and it seems to be working well so far.

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

View Rick M's profile

Rick M

9579 posts in 2043 days


#6 posted 03-05-2016 06:20 PM

I use 1/2” MDF, never had one bow.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View Lee's profile

Lee

82 posts in 541 days


#7 posted 03-05-2016 06:47 PM

I use 1/2” MDF or particle board then glue on a laminate top for smother sliding, never had one bow. Man made material is much more stable than plywood or lumber

-- Colombia Custom woodworking

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2523 posts in 2585 days


#8 posted 03-05-2016 10:09 PM

I also use MDF for this.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

View MadMark's profile

MadMark

979 posts in 1116 days


#9 posted 03-05-2016 10:32 PM

I bought a ZCI preformed from cast something like ebonite. Fits perfect & solid as a rock. Under $30 and I ordered it with the saw.

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

View jumbojack's profile

jumbojack

1672 posts in 2287 days


#10 posted 03-05-2016 10:34 PM

MDF is a perfect solution.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

5325 posts in 1862 days


#11 posted 03-05-2016 10:35 PM

I’ve toyed around with the idea of making some out of HDPE… anyone ever tried? I’ve got some ‘plastic’ wood that I made from old grocery store bags, but it’s a little too thin (1/4”) for the TS, so I would need to make up some thicker stuff:

I make the inserts for my bandsaw and scroll saw out of the stuff, and it works great, even though those are only about 1/8” thick. I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work for the TS as well (using 1/2” thick material).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7634 posts in 3038 days


#12 posted 03-05-2016 10:45 PM

“Best” is always subjective, but it’s a really important component in the table saw chain. Inserts that flex, rock, or don’t sit flush can effect the quality and accuracy of the cut, which can work against hundreds (thousands) of dollars worth of machinery, blades, precision fence and miter gauges, jigs, setup components, and lumber.

Phenolic is one of the better materials for DIYers IMO. You can buy it in bulk pieces to make your own, or Leecraft is one of the better brands to buy premade inserts. It’s very flat, very stable, very strong, smooth, and machines quite well. Steel and other metals work well for manufacturers, but is much harder for DIYers to work with. MDF, ply, and hard woods are ok, but have the drawbacks of not being as strong, stable, smooth, or flat as phenolic. Any plastic inserts (HDPE, UHMW, acrylic, etc) that I’ve had have also been too weak and don’t stay as flat.


-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View joey502's profile

joey502

502 posts in 1181 days


#13 posted 03-05-2016 10:47 PM

I use UHMW for mine. I buy it in thicker pieces than i need then joint and plane it. There has not been any issues yet.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4278 posts in 2014 days


#14 posted 03-05-2016 11:04 PM

I use MDF sandwiched between layers of plastic laminate.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Sany Ahmed's profile

Sany Ahmed

6 posts in 489 days


#15 posted 03-06-2016 10:43 PM

I made my own by hard maple and MDF. And I didn’t have any problem.

showing 1 through 15 of 24 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com