Ryobi BT-3000

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Forum topic by Jason Tetterton posted 02-23-2010 08:53 AM 7051 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jason Tetterton

54 posts in 3259 days

02-23-2010 08:53 AM

I found a BT-3000 for $120 in my neck of the woods. The person selling says it is 15 years old, has only been used three times, and has been stored in a garage all these years.

Should I buy it? I currently have a Skilsaw 10” that I got at lowes for $179, I’m not that happy with it.

The reviews on the BT-3000 seem favorable. I’m a beginning woodworker, so any advice is appreciated.


-- Jason, Central Virginia

22 replies so far

View Luke's profile


545 posts in 3531 days

#1 posted 02-23-2010 09:04 AM

It’s better than what you have but not super great. You should be happy with it for a while and thats a decent price.

-- LAS,

View bluchz's profile


187 posts in 3611 days

#2 posted 02-23-2010 12:31 PM

I have a bt3000 and i am happy with it. I bought mine reconditioned and have had it for 10yrs without any problems.

-- flash=250,100][/flash]

View Jim's profile


150 posts in 3559 days

#3 posted 02-23-2010 01:33 PM

Hey Jason, I’ve got the newer Craftsman version, it was my first big tool buy when I got into this hobby. I’ll warn you, you have to learn to do things a lot differently with this saw. Not that it’s a bad saw, I can get some very accurate cuts… now. It took a lot of fine tuning and a lot of reading up to understand how the saw works to get there. It’s not like your typical saws where the table top adjusts to the blade. In fact, unless you get the add-on miter slots, the only way to crosscut is the sliding miter table. But once it’s all said and done and you have it tuned, you’ll probably like it, especially for the price. If you need any help with it, let me know. There’s also a whole group devoted to that saw, I’ll have to find the link if you’re interested in it. Good luck!

-- -- Jim - Kokomo, Indiana

View knotscott's profile


8178 posts in 3613 days

#4 posted 02-23-2010 02:22 PM

The BT saws have some potential if you learn to set it up, and have realistic expectations. offer lots of support, answers, and ideas for that saw. At that age, you may find that the “shims” on the raise/lowering mechanism, and the belts need to be changed. Also, find out if it had the 13 amp or 15 amp motor, and make sure it’s in good shape. Just about every part on it is easily replaceable. The parts are probably worth the asking price.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View tnwood's profile


263 posts in 3324 days

#5 posted 02-23-2010 10:43 PM

It depends on how old it is and how hard it has been used. I had one a number of years ago and while I did a lot of cutting on it, I wore it out in a couple of years of cutting hard maple and cherry. The arbor bearings go loose and to repair would cost more than it was worth. I think you can likely find an older Delta or other better quality saw for twice that amount of money and wouldn’t have to do nearly as much repair to get operationally accurate.

View Jason Tetterton's profile

Jason Tetterton

54 posts in 3259 days

#6 posted 02-24-2010 02:51 AM

This is the only picture I have, I haven’t looked at it in person yet. The owner doesn’t know anything about tools. Can you tell by looking at the picture what accessories or add-ons it has?


Larger version:


-- Jason, Central Virginia

View NBeener's profile


4816 posts in 3411 days

#7 posted 02-24-2010 02:58 AM

I’d tend to be more cautious about things that were neglected than those that were abused.

Used three times in 15yrs??

I’d want to be verrrrry careful, as I checked over the motor for proper operation, the mechanism for tilt, the sliding of the fence, the raising and lowering of the blade, etc., etc.

Rust never sleeps, too ;-)

-- -- Neil

View Jason Tetterton's profile

Jason Tetterton

54 posts in 3259 days

#8 posted 02-24-2010 03:10 AM

Thanks for the tip neil

-- Jason, Central Virginia

View Luke's profile


545 posts in 3531 days

#9 posted 02-24-2010 04:16 AM

Everything in the picture came with the saw. It looks like it’s all there too. I have the exact same one. Everything except maybe those casters set on the side of the legs. Those are nice to have. If you’re really going to get into wood working I would suggest saving your money and buying a Contractor style saw. I see lots of them on Craigslist every time I look for around 200-300 bucks and you’ll thank me in a couple years if you stick with it. There are usually Deltas and crafstman galore. That doesn’t speak for your area though just my experience. This saw is adjustable to get accurate cuts but… it won’t stay that way for very long and unless this saw has miter tracks on the right adjustable table you will not have one at all. I could never get it to cut a nice straight line but it would work great for a job site type saw or for someone who will basically be doing framework around windows or something that is not super critical. Of course I would only know these things from experience with this saw and it really has taught me a lot about accuracy and saw quality so in that sense I’d say get it just to learn and grow in your hobby.

-- LAS,

View a1Jim's profile


117417 posts in 3814 days

#10 posted 02-24-2010 04:21 AM

I had one years ago and it was a good little saw for the money. It’s not good for large sheet goods or heavy long cuts because it’s so lite.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View NBeener's profile


4816 posts in 3411 days

#11 posted 02-24-2010 04:43 AM

a1Jim: as always, great feedback.

Note: with my Bosch 4100, I have it bolted to OSB, and that OSB clamped to an OSB-topped shop stand.

I have the left and rear in/outfeed extensions AND three in/outfeed roller stands that I can put into play, as needed.

WITH all of that, I’ve done a fair number of full sheets, and ripped and crosscut a 6’ x 1’ x 3” mahoga-log … with no problems.

In other words, for larger pieces, and sheets, you’d need to secure such a light machine. In my case, though, the saw will do it :-)

-- -- Neil

View NathanAllen's profile


376 posts in 3381 days

#12 posted 02-24-2010 06:15 PM

For the price I’d say go for it, unless you’re saving for a contractor or hybrid. Other than the added casters the setup appears to be basic, meaning you’ll need to purchase a pair of the dual miter slot tables to add to the top. One would come with the BT3KIT still sold by Home Depot, but lots in that kit is semi-useless, such as the dust bag.

Since the top, rails and body are aluminum you only really have to worry about rust inside. You’ll have to crawl under the base with a flashlight to take a look at the motor mount. There is a screw made of steel that needs to be lubed regularly or debris will build up and wear through the aluminum bushing. Easiest way to notice this is if the motor/blade crank up but refuse to crank down in a smooth matter.

Overall I like my BT3K very much, though I do plan on upgrading when I have more space available. Dust collection is decent, though you’ll need to hook up a shop vac (2 1/2”) to the rear dust port since the blade has a shroud that collects dust and debris.

Some models seem to require constant adjusting and others stay tuned through years of abuse. My gut tells me that the motor mount/arbor relationship is the culprit.

One of the features I really like is the fence. it locks front and back and is very adjustable. The top and right side have T slots which make mounting custom jigs very easy. I also like how easy it is to shift the rails.

Safety features are decent. The switch has a knee kick cover that lets you slap the saw off in a hurry, The Guard doesn’t have a DC hookup, but it has an integrated splitter and pawls. Unless you install miter slots you won’t be able to use fingerboards, another reason to install them. Parts are very available through eBay, Sears Parts, M&D and eReplacement.

View HallTree's profile


5665 posts in 4005 days

#13 posted 02-24-2010 11:49 PM

Nice saw. It is a different type of table saw, but once you get used to it you will like it. The fence is above average. One thing you have to be careful of. If the blade ever locks up while sawing, STOP it as quickly as you can. If you don’s, there are some shilms that can be damaged and they are a bear to replace.

-- "Hold on to instruction, do not let it go; guard it well, for it is your life" Solomon

View Ingjr's profile


144 posts in 3254 days

#14 posted 02-25-2010 03:22 AM

I’ve had a BT3000 and a BT3100 hooked rail to rail for 84” of width capacity. I had them many year and just sold the pair about 4 months ago. These are super little saws that are very accurate with proper treatment. I have cut lots of very hard thick lumber with them that these saws aren’t “suppose” to do. I’d say buy it. I loved mine. Really wish I hadn’t sold them. Best of luck whatever decision you make.

-- The older I get the faster I was.

View BCinPhx's profile


23 posts in 3165 days

#15 posted 06-21-2010 06:44 PM

Ran on to this ‘older’ article and maybe someone will pass-bye and look at my request. I have had my BT3000 since @ 1993 and have used it often. My problem now is that the height adjusting screw assembly has worn out the theads in the motor bracket. I purchased what I thought would fix it But to no avail. I think the flatter bracket I purchased is from a newer type of motor. My motor needs a more recessed and rounded bottom edge on the bracket to fit over the fan portion of the motor. Does anybody know where I can get a used motor assembly or the bracket? OR even a donor saw? I have really enjoyed this saw and I know it’s not the best, But I want to keep it.

-- CPT Bill - No matter how many times I cut still comes up short !

showing 1 through 15 of 22 replies

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