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Question on working with "oversized" wood

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Forum topic by FrankoManini posted 1599 days ago 1202 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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FrankoManini

39 posts in 2099 days


1599 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question jointer milling

No, this is not a question I ask the ladies… he he he…
But…

Today, I received the wood for what will become a new bench. Most of it is 8/4 stock, that is 8” wide. To make the top, I’ll be laminating multiple 8/4 thick pieces (faces glued together) to yield a 4” thick top (or nearly). So ultimately, I have to face joint every board on both sides.

Here’s the question. Since I only have a 6” jointer, I can’t face joint the 8” boards prior to edge jointing so I need to rip the boards first. Do I joint one edge then rip off that edge and then face joint the two 4” wide planks after? Or should I just rip the 8” boards and not worry about jointing one edge prior to ripping? I will have to rejoint that edge anyway since they would not be square to the face (since I can’t joint the 8” face).

I could rip on the bandsaw I suppose, that eliminates the risk of kickback due to a wonky board closing up the kerf.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

-- - If my wife asks, I got ALL of my tools on sale.


12 replies so far

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WayneC

12237 posts in 2681 days


#1 posted 1599 days ago

Handplane? Thickness planer sled?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Alexander's profile

Alexander

190 posts in 1695 days


#2 posted 1599 days ago

One time I made a blank of 4 different kinds of wood by glue up. Afterwords I found I could not run it through my planer. I went to a lumber yard that milled trim and found a woodworker there who ran it through his big sander. Look around for such a yard.

-- John at Sugarloft Mountain........Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.

View Tony_S's profile

Tony_S

413 posts in 1667 days


#3 posted 1598 days ago

In my shop, the people are trained to NEVER run a board through the table saw unless it’s had at least one face and one edge jointed. PERIOD! It’s not worth the chance of a kickback.

....you should see how much damage a piece of 8/4 lumber can do when it comes rocketing out of a table saw…

-- Striving for excellence motivates you; striving for perfection is demoralizing. ~Harriet Braiker

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HenryH

132 posts in 1988 days


#4 posted 1598 days ago

I agree with Tony S. above. Take the extra step joint the edge. The kickback will hurt you.

Dude, a 4 inch thick bench top! Post pics when complete.

-- HenryH - PA

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patron

12947 posts in 1925 days


#5 posted 1598 days ago

joint the edge first ,
then rip ,
you will not lose that extra width ,
if the board is crowned .

for wider boards ,
i just kiss the face in the planer ,
and flip over and do the other face ,
working them to each other ,
and knocking of any high spots ,
later , mill everything as boards together .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Chrmakr

20 posts in 1612 days


#6 posted 1598 days ago

I have to agree with the above comments.

With the limitation of not being able to joint a board that wide, I would joint an edge first and use that edge to rip the boards in half, oversize. I would then joint a face, then joint the previously sawn edge on each board to square. Thickness plane the rough side to smooth and then plane alternating sides until desired thickness. Finally, rip to size using the newly squared edge against the fence on the table saw.

Don’t forget the pictures!!!

-- Doug Roper Chairmaker and Instructor, http://members.cox.net/traditionalwindsors/

View jevarn71's profile

jevarn71

80 posts in 1744 days


#7 posted 1598 days ago

I built one of these planer sleds and it works great for “face jointing”. http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=24118
Build it for what ever length you require.

-- Jason - Aim High!!

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8475 posts in 2232 days


#8 posted 1598 days ago

mm… since you only need 4”(+) wide boards to make the 4” thick top, I would think that ripping the 8” boards in the middle on the bandsaw would be the safest bet – thats what i would do. it will also leave you with narrower boards to joint and thickness which will have less of a bow/twist which results in less material that goes to waste.

use the bandsaw – thats what it’s for (at least one of it’s main uses) and is safe for these operations exactly.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Swede's profile

Swede

190 posts in 1602 days


#9 posted 1598 days ago

I have ripped all types of ruff milled oak most of it was not straight. I attached a piece of plywood to it and using the plywood was able to have one straight edge we usually attached it with a couple of sheetrock screws. It is a lot easier to do than explain. A trick my father taught me while working as a trim carpenter remolding a Bank..

-- Swede -- time to make some sawdust

View Devin's profile

Devin

162 posts in 2112 days


#10 posted 1597 days ago

Hey buddy..similar to the what others have said…
I would be inclined to use the bandsaw to rip to a width that can be face jointed. This assumes the unjointed edges are relatively straight. If they are not then I would likely use a sled (big chunk of plywood that either has runner for mitre or just runs against fence, or screw a piece of plywood to the wavy board, effectively creating a straight edge) and still rip it on the bandsaw. As a bonus, in your case, the screw holes will be on the face and eventually hidden inside the lamination.

One of the reasons I’d use bandsaw is simply the danger aspect…those are big unwieldy boards…and you have a nice big bandsaw to boot. You will have to construct some infeed and outfeed support but once that’s in place you should be good to go.

Basically, if you are going to be ripping them anyway, may as well rip ‘em to rough width and then make them S4S. But rip ‘em safely, which for me, means bandsaw and “straightening assistance” if needed.

-- If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

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Sarit

459 posts in 1724 days


#11 posted 1597 days ago

If you have a rabbeting type jointer, you should be able to joint 6” of the 8”, then find a piece of mdf in that 6” wide rabbet (thicker than the amount you jointed away). Then add some cleats w/ glue at the ends of either board so that you can feed both into your thickness planer together (mdf side down). Since mdf is flat and you put it on the flattened portion of the board, the opposing side will also be perfectly flat coming out of the planer. Next remove the mdf and any cleats you have on the 8” board and thickness plane the other side (the remaining 2” ridge).

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FrankoManini

39 posts in 2099 days


#12 posted 1593 days ago

Thanks for all the input folks.. Since the final width will be 4” (ar as near to taht as I can get, I’ll rip the 8” wide boards down on the bandsaw first. That’s a safe way to do it, and I will be saving some wood from the kerf.

And yeah, a 4” (or more likely 3.75”) thick benchtop is gonna be amazing.

-- - If my wife asks, I got ALL of my tools on sale.

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