LumberJocks

Question on working with "oversized" wood

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by FrankoManini posted 02-22-2010 at 10:33 PM 1224 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View FrankoManini's profile

FrankoManini

39 posts in 2152 days


02-22-2010 at 10:33 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question jointer milling

No, this is not a question I ask the ladies… he he he…
But…

Today, I received the wood for what will become a new bench. Most of it is 8/4 stock, that is 8” wide. To make the top, I’ll be laminating multiple 8/4 thick pieces (faces glued together) to yield a 4” thick top (or nearly). So ultimately, I have to face joint every board on both sides.

Here’s the question. Since I only have a 6” jointer, I can’t face joint the 8” boards prior to edge jointing so I need to rip the boards first. Do I joint one edge then rip off that edge and then face joint the two 4” wide planks after? Or should I just rip the 8” boards and not worry about jointing one edge prior to ripping? I will have to rejoint that edge anyway since they would not be square to the face (since I can’t joint the 8” face).

I could rip on the bandsaw I suppose, that eliminates the risk of kickback due to a wonky board closing up the kerf.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

-- - If my wife asks, I got ALL of my tools on sale.


12 replies so far

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12268 posts in 2734 days


#1 posted 02-22-2010 at 10:35 PM

Handplane? Thickness planer sled?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Alexander's profile

Alexander

190 posts in 1748 days


#2 posted 02-22-2010 at 10:55 PM

One time I made a blank of 4 different kinds of wood by glue up. Afterwords I found I could not run it through my planer. I went to a lumber yard that milled trim and found a woodworker there who ran it through his big sander. Look around for such a yard.

-- John at Sugarloft Mountain........Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.

View Tony_S's profile

Tony_S

423 posts in 1720 days


#3 posted 02-23-2010 at 06:31 AM

In my shop, the people are trained to NEVER run a board through the table saw unless it’s had at least one face and one edge jointed. PERIOD! It’s not worth the chance of a kickback.

....you should see how much damage a piece of 8/4 lumber can do when it comes rocketing out of a table saw…

-- "The trouble with people idiot-proofing things, is the resulting evolution of the idiot."

View HenryH's profile

HenryH

132 posts in 2041 days


#4 posted 02-23-2010 at 08:43 AM

I agree with Tony S. above. Take the extra step joint the edge. The kickback will hurt you.

Dude, a 4 inch thick bench top! Post pics when complete.

-- HenryH - PA

View patron's profile

patron

13021 posts in 1978 days


#5 posted 02-23-2010 at 09:04 AM

joint the edge first ,
then rip ,
you will not lose that extra width ,
if the board is crowned .

for wider boards ,
i just kiss the face in the planer ,
and flip over and do the other face ,
working them to each other ,
and knocking of any high spots ,
later , mill everything as boards together .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Chrmakr's profile

Chrmakr

20 posts in 1665 days


#6 posted 02-23-2010 at 11:19 AM

I have to agree with the above comments.

With the limitation of not being able to joint a board that wide, I would joint an edge first and use that edge to rip the boards in half, oversize. I would then joint a face, then joint the previously sawn edge on each board to square. Thickness plane the rough side to smooth and then plane alternating sides until desired thickness. Finally, rip to size using the newly squared edge against the fence on the table saw.

Don’t forget the pictures!!!

-- Doug Roper Chairmaker and Instructor, http://members.cox.net/traditionalwindsors/

View jevarn71's profile

jevarn71

80 posts in 1797 days


#7 posted 02-23-2010 at 04:00 PM

I built one of these planer sleds and it works great for “face jointing”. http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=24118
Build it for what ever length you require.

-- Jason - Aim High!!

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2285 days


#8 posted 02-23-2010 at 04:27 PM

mm… since you only need 4”(+) wide boards to make the 4” thick top, I would think that ripping the 8” boards in the middle on the bandsaw would be the safest bet – thats what i would do. it will also leave you with narrower boards to joint and thickness which will have less of a bow/twist which results in less material that goes to waste.

use the bandsaw – thats what it’s for (at least one of it’s main uses) and is safe for these operations exactly.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Swede's profile

Swede

191 posts in 1655 days


#9 posted 02-23-2010 at 04:43 PM

I have ripped all types of ruff milled oak most of it was not straight. I attached a piece of plywood to it and using the plywood was able to have one straight edge we usually attached it with a couple of sheetrock screws. It is a lot easier to do than explain. A trick my father taught me while working as a trim carpenter remolding a Bank..

-- Swede -- time to make some sawdust

View Devin's profile

Devin

162 posts in 2165 days


#10 posted 02-24-2010 at 05:40 PM

Hey buddy..similar to the what others have said…
I would be inclined to use the bandsaw to rip to a width that can be face jointed. This assumes the unjointed edges are relatively straight. If they are not then I would likely use a sled (big chunk of plywood that either has runner for mitre or just runs against fence, or screw a piece of plywood to the wavy board, effectively creating a straight edge) and still rip it on the bandsaw. As a bonus, in your case, the screw holes will be on the face and eventually hidden inside the lamination.

One of the reasons I’d use bandsaw is simply the danger aspect…those are big unwieldy boards…and you have a nice big bandsaw to boot. You will have to construct some infeed and outfeed support but once that’s in place you should be good to go.

Basically, if you are going to be ripping them anyway, may as well rip ‘em to rough width and then make them S4S. But rip ‘em safely, which for me, means bandsaw and “straightening assistance” if needed.

-- If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

View Sarit's profile

Sarit

482 posts in 1776 days


#11 posted 02-24-2010 at 11:10 PM

If you have a rabbeting type jointer, you should be able to joint 6” of the 8”, then find a piece of mdf in that 6” wide rabbet (thicker than the amount you jointed away). Then add some cleats w/ glue at the ends of either board so that you can feed both into your thickness planer together (mdf side down). Since mdf is flat and you put it on the flattened portion of the board, the opposing side will also be perfectly flat coming out of the planer. Next remove the mdf and any cleats you have on the 8” board and thickness plane the other side (the remaining 2” ridge).

View FrankoManini's profile

FrankoManini

39 posts in 2152 days


#12 posted 02-28-2010 at 08:20 PM

Thanks for all the input folks.. Since the final width will be 4” (ar as near to taht as I can get, I’ll rip the 8” wide boards down on the bandsaw first. That’s a safe way to do it, and I will be saving some wood from the kerf.

And yeah, a 4” (or more likely 3.75”) thick benchtop is gonna be amazing.

-- - If my wife asks, I got ALL of my tools on sale.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase