|Forum topic by dvhart||posted 02-23-2010 02:53 AM||11556 views||1 time favorited||8 replies|
02-23-2010 02:53 AM
I’ve placed a router plate in the extension wing of my Jet JWCS-10A Cabinet Saw. Up until now I’ve used the basic Rockler router table fence mounted via slots in the table. Two disadvantages:
1) The slots can catch material during a rip operation (especially thin plywood)
I’m looking at building my own router table fence that avoids the two issues. Some that I’ve looked it will clamp to your existing table saw fence, this is nice as you can eliminate #1 right off. The trouble for me here is that my fence side faces (Xacta II) are solid plastic (HDPE) with no t tracks. The resulting fence is really wide and therefor difficult to store. Much of the width comes from providing space between the subface and the tablesaw fence to allow for dust collection.
I’ve come up with an idea to incorporate the dust collection in the 3”x1.5” rectangular steel tube that makes up the tablesaw fence body. It would require me to use a 3” bimetal hole saw and remove a semicircle from the bottom of the middle of the tube and a three inch section of the side of the tube. This would be right behind the router bit. I would then pop off the tube cap on the tail end of the fence (opposite the lock) to provide access for dust collection. To the modified side of the fence I would add a 3/4” thick baltic birch subface with tracks to mount a split fence on for the router table as well as the bit guard, featherboards, etc.
So finally to the question – would I be an idiot to modify my fence body in this way just to save four to six inches of width on a router table fence? Seems to me the fence body will remain extremely rigid even with the cutout for the bit.