Gluing handles to painted drawer front?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by abehil posted 02-28-2016 06:15 PM 699 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View abehil's profile


104 posts in 1215 days

02-28-2016 06:15 PM

I have made some drawers for a shop tool stand and the fronts are 3/4” plywood. I’d like to spray a clear coat onto the drawer fronts. I made some wood handles out of of some 2×4 material because that’s all I have to work with and I’m considering gluing them on to the fronts rather than use screws.
The plywood is sanded 5 ply poplar but the poplar is a veneer layer I think.

Should I be concerned that the paint (Rust-oleum can spray paint) will be the weak spot or does enamel paint bond well enough to hold? What glue to use? I have 5 minute epoxy on hand and could use that.

9 replies so far

View jbay's profile (online now)


1942 posts in 775 days

#1 posted 02-28-2016 06:50 PM

I would screw them regardless. Why not?

-- If anyone would like to see my Portfolio, PM me and I would be glad to send you the link.

View splatman's profile


586 posts in 1275 days

#2 posted 02-28-2016 07:04 PM

Stick squares of masking tape a bit smaller than the glue surfaces of the handles, where the handles will go. After finishing, peel the tape, and there will be 2 bare wood spots for the glue to adhere. Make sure there is no finish on the glue surfaces of the handles.

View a1Jim's profile


116815 posts in 3453 days

#3 posted 02-28-2016 07:06 PM

As J said I would screw them also.To answer your question you probably will have and adhesion problem. If your concerned about drilling the holes for the handles, a easy jig will make it easy .

-- Custom furniture

View abehil's profile


104 posts in 1215 days

#4 posted 02-28-2016 08:23 PM

splatman: Thanks. The masking tape could work for me.

jbay and a1Jim: I’m confused about the proper screws so glue sounded easier. I ordered some 8/32 truss head screws but fine threads in soft wood didn’t seem right to me. So I also ordered 8/32 ez-loc threaded inserts to put in the handles but they are only 1/3” so it seems like that’s too shallow and the soft wood handle would break off sooner or later. Your thoughts?

View TheFridge's profile


8675 posts in 1362 days

#5 posted 02-28-2016 08:30 PM

Uh. Wood screws.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View rwe2156's profile


2756 posts in 1357 days

#6 posted 02-28-2016 09:11 PM

What you’re trying to do will, of course work, but you’re making way too much of it.

Screws—->Wood screws—->Pan heads—->1 1/4”—->Drilling template——-| Done.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View abehil's profile


104 posts in 1215 days

#7 posted 02-29-2016 01:19 AM

rwe2156: Thanks, that explains alot.

TheFridge: Uh. Nothing is obvious the first time you do it.

View abehil's profile


104 posts in 1215 days

#8 posted 03-03-2016 05:42 PM

I ended up using 2-1/2” kreg pocket screws because I just happen to have some. The drawer box is 1/2” and the drawer front is 3/4” so the drawer itself is 1-1/4” thick. These are large handles made of soft wood and will be in the garage so guaranteed that they will get knocked and I don’t want them to break off.
The screws come to about 3/8” or 1/2” from outer curve of the handle.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. This has been a fun project. It’s the first time I’ve made drawers or handles or a cabinet or attempted making them flush inset (which worked and looks great).

View Woodchuck2010's profile


704 posts in 735 days

#9 posted 03-03-2016 05:52 PM

I really like your cabinet. Looks great! Have the build plans for it?

-- Chuck, Michigan,

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics