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Bowed craftsman tablesaw fence, suggestions?

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Forum topic by Steelgeek posted 02-27-2016 03:19 PM 454 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Steelgeek

5 posts in 285 days


02-27-2016 03:19 PM

So I inherited a craftsman 113 from my uncle. I;ve been checking it out and found that the fenced is bowed away from the blade in the middle. He had a piece of shimmed MDF but it was warped also. Who knows how old it was?
So any suggestions on a nice stiff material that won’t warp or adapt to the bowed fence to make a new face? Shimming it straight is assumed.
And sorry, buying a new/better fence is right out.


8 replies so far

View mrg's profile

mrg

659 posts in 2464 days


#1 posted 02-27-2016 03:46 PM

Build a box out of Baltic birch ply and put over the fence that it is snug or screwed in. Adjust your indicator on the rule and you should be good to go.

If you post a pic of the fence someone may know how to disassemble and tell you how they fixed it.

-- mrg

View MadMark's profile

MadMark

978 posts in 918 days


#2 posted 02-27-2016 04:13 PM

Incra LS-III

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

View dalepage's profile

dalepage

132 posts in 305 days


#3 posted 02-27-2016 06:51 PM

Do what mrg said. By building this plywood box to go over the fence, you automatically get a sacrificial fence, which comes in handy. You should be able to adjust the fence so that you can get the “box” parallel to the blade.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

692 posts in 1263 days


#4 posted 02-27-2016 08:02 PM

Square the fence just past the cutter head in the out feed table.Keep pressure there when edge jointing.My first jointer was a craftsman with the fixed out feed table.I think it was louder than any machine I have now.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2189 posts in 1490 days


#5 posted 02-27-2016 09:22 PM

Huh? He is talking about a table saw fence, isn’t he?

Just another possibility: if you have access to a hydraulic press, you could try straightening out the bow.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

14594 posts in 2148 days


#6 posted 02-27-2016 09:36 PM

One can set up a couple blocks of wood on the saw’s top. Set the bow rail onto the blocks, with the bow up. Large C clamp to pull the rail back into straight, and just a hair more ( spring back will occur) check for straightness after removing the clamp.

Might take the OP maybe 15 minutes to do?

BTDT…

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View TMGStudioFurniture's profile

TMGStudioFurniture

55 posts in 284 days


#7 posted 02-28-2016 06:38 PM

I had the same problem with my saw, and did what bandit571 suggested. Only difference is that I straightened it on my workbench, as it was easier to clamp down.

I also found that I had to clamp it and whack it with a hammer to get it to bend back – those fences are pretty strong, as they are a steel box frame, and my clamps weren’t quite strong enough on their own.

I was easiest to first mark the high spot with a marker, then set up the blocks.

Straightening your existing fence has the advantage of keeping your fence ruler still accurate. If you add thickness to the fence, your ruler will be off by the thickness you added.

-- https://www.etsy.com/shop/TMGStudioFurniture

View Steelgeek's profile

Steelgeek

5 posts in 285 days


#8 posted 03-04-2016 12:50 AM

Sorry I haven’t responded, life took me away from the shop for a while. You know how it goes.
Anyways, here’s the fence. I marked where it’s bent, apparently from when Uncle Karl had a close encounter between fence and saw blade. From the looks of it, it was a brown trouser moment.

I’m thinking a box around the fence, because the way it is built I can’t straighten it. He screwed some MDF right to it with some sheet metal screws, but when I looked the MDF was warped along the fence. Would a box fence fastened through the actual screw slots avoid that?

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