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Good finish for padauk?

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Forum topic by Sgt_Lobo posted 11-25-2007 06:49 AM 12565 views 1 time favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sgt_Lobo

87 posts in 2576 days


11-25-2007 06:49 AM

Topic tags/keywords: padauk bubinga zebrawood walnut cocobolo finish

Hi all,

Well, my Christmas boxes are coming along nicely and now it is time for me to start contemplating the finishes I will be using. I have been searching the web and am not finding out much about finishing padauk. I am looking for a finish that really makes it stand out with it’s rich color, and at the same time I understand that padauk will eventually change colors on me and possibly turn brown. Is there a good finish that will stave off this browning?

And while we are talking about finishes, I also have pieces of bubinga, zebrawood, walnut, and cocobolo which I need to figure out as well, so suggestions would be most welcome…

-- Sgt_Lobo -- Aurora, CO


22 replies so far

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3966 posts in 2781 days


#1 posted 11-25-2007 07:43 AM

UV light causes the padauk to lose it’s bright color. Michael Dresdner has suggested that Armour-All (the car stuff) will help prolong the change in color and limiting exposure to sunlight will also help. Unfortunately Armour-All contains silicon which causes fisheye (craters) to form in film finishes, so an oil based finish like Danish oil or Boiled linseed oil (BLO) maybe the only choice if you pre-treat the wood with Armour-All. I have pretty much banned any silicon containing material from my shop, as I usually finish with lacquer or shellac. Just be careful with the stuff if you ever plan to get into film finishes. Another alternative is to finish with whatever you like and put Armour-All over the top when the finish cures. Paduak will darken over time, no matter what you use.

We like when the darkening occurs over time with Cherry. Paduak, Purpleheart just will darken over time eventually. it’s just an unfortunate fact of the wood.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

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Sgt_Lobo

87 posts in 2576 days


#2 posted 11-25-2007 08:18 PM

Thanks Douglas for the advice. I was actually thinking of maybe using Danish oil. I have never considered armour-all. I may have to research that some more. With oil based finishes like danish or teak oil, can you put paste wax over top after the oil has dried?

-- Sgt_Lobo -- Aurora, CO

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Karson

34901 posts in 3118 days


#3 posted 11-25-2007 08:49 PM

I don’t know if shellac will cover-up the armor-all treatment.

Penofin makes a 99% UV penetrating oil finish. It’s an outdoor marine finish, used for mahogany boats and log cabins. I’ve used it but have never tried to test it against another finish over time. They say it works.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

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Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2805 days


#4 posted 11-25-2007 11:38 PM

Thanks for the clue, Doug. I’m abut to turn a few pens out of padauk.
As they are intended to be Christmas pens I want to keep them as red as possible.

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3966 posts in 2781 days


#5 posted 11-26-2007 12:07 AM

Danged if I can lay “hands” on the exact link I read when I posted yesterday. But this is to the site where Dresdner posts some real honeys on finishing.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

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Sgt_Lobo

87 posts in 2576 days


#6 posted 11-26-2007 12:32 AM

Great site Douglas, thanks for the link! He seems to recommend a UV inhibiting urethane. I will research more before making a decision, and I will hope that others continue to post recommendations in this thread…

-- Sgt_Lobo -- Aurora, CO

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Douglas Bordner

3966 posts in 2781 days


#7 posted 11-26-2007 02:30 AM

Somewhere in there was the original one about armour-all too. The only draw back about the UV inhibitors which would be in spar varnish and the urethane is that they will muddy up the grain, which the armour-all with a Danish oil follow up won’t do. My answer is to use Cardinal wood (aka Bloodwood) which doesn’t fade. Redheart, another highly colored wood does fade or mellow to more brownish tints. Bloodwood stays rich and red. I have a Padauk 1˝x12˝x48˝ up on the shelf that has been there since I found out about this.

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-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

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Dan'um Style

13165 posts in 2700 days


#8 posted 11-26-2007 02:32 AM

love the colors either way ! darkened or newly cut !

-- keeping myself entertained ... Humor and fun lubricate the brain

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Chris

1867 posts in 2709 days


#9 posted 11-26-2007 04:23 AM

Sgt,

Thanks for the post. I have just acquired two pieces of Padauk that are 6/4 21”x 15’ (both from the same tree) for a steal and was planning on making a desk from it. I had heard that the wood goes through quite the color change as it ages. I think I be ordering some of that Penofin Oil finish for that project.

-- "Everything that is great and inspiring is created by the individual who labors in freedom" -- Albert Einstein

View Sawdust2's profile

Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2805 days


#10 posted 11-26-2007 05:27 AM

I, too, did a little research

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Characteristics_of_padauk.html

Robert Sorby’s web site says use Danish oil whist sanding. Keeps the dust down and fills the pores

Like cocobola it is a nasal irritant so make sure you wear a dust mask.

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11676 posts in 2406 days


#11 posted 05-18-2009 05:59 PM

Thanks for all of the information gentlemen : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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a1Jim

112486 posts in 2295 days


#12 posted 05-18-2009 06:06 PM

Armour all may save your color but contains silicone that will fish eye when in contact with clear coats. or many other finishes . if you use it don’t use it were you will finish other projects because it will contaminate
your other work.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Dusty56

11676 posts in 2406 days


#13 posted 05-18-2009 06:10 PM

Thanks for the heads-up regarding the contamination , Jim : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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windsurf_mike

1 post in 1228 days


#14 posted 07-13-2011 12:22 AM

I’ve been using automotive clear top coat. As far as I know, it has the best UV blocker there is. So far nothing has changed color or tone.

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CharlieM1958

15712 posts in 2936 days


#15 posted 07-13-2011 01:51 AM

I’ve worked a fair bit with padauk. My experience is that an oil finish like Danish oil or BLO will darken it considerably. Poly by itself will keep the color bright. If you keep it away from sunlight, it will retain i’s color.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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