|Forum topic by Potato42||posted 02-27-2016 03:18 PM||423 views||0 times favorited||3 replies|
02-27-2016 03:18 PM
Hello all, new guy here hoping to get back into woodworking. If you guys could point me to whatever section has introductions I’ll write one up.
So, I just bought a vintage 10” craftsman tilting arbor bench saw from a guy through craigslist. Cast iron table and extensions, very nice heavy duty fence, 1hp dayton motor with belt drive. It is mounted to a functional but run down looking cabinet with a dust bin down below. After a more thorough examination I see that the motor pulley is warped/bent and I have an identical part on order.
my question to you fellows is what blade to buy. I’ve read the discussion about blade type vs cut type, and for my needs I think I’d like a glue line rip blade. I already have a very nice bosch 12” miter saw for crosscuts, and I do not have a joiner or a planer. The idea of being able to glue right up on an edge after a cut sounds great.
I’ve read enough to know that in general “you get what you pay for” and my budget will allow about $50 for a blade right now give or take. I think I’d like a flat tooth grind in case I decide to cut channels, I don’t have a dado blade or budget for one atm. Should I go for thin kerf or standard? I’ve looked at Freud, Amana, CMT, FS tool, Tenryu, and Forrest among others. I’m trying to get best bang for the buck and a good match to my saw and work I’ll be doing.
So what do you think fellas?