I just picked up a new (used) table saw

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Forum topic by Potato42 posted 02-27-2016 03:18 PM 364 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2 posts in 237 days

02-27-2016 03:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: ts table saw blade new intro used craftsman

Hello all, new guy here hoping to get back into woodworking. If you guys could point me to whatever section has introductions I’ll write one up.

So, I just bought a vintage 10” craftsman tilting arbor bench saw from a guy through craigslist. Cast iron table and extensions, very nice heavy duty fence, 1hp dayton motor with belt drive. It is mounted to a functional but run down looking cabinet with a dust bin down below. After a more thorough examination I see that the motor pulley is warped/bent and I have an identical part on order.

my question to you fellows is what blade to buy. I’ve read the discussion about blade type vs cut type, and for my needs I think I’d like a glue line rip blade. I already have a very nice bosch 12” miter saw for crosscuts, and I do not have a joiner or a planer. The idea of being able to glue right up on an edge after a cut sounds great.

I’ve read enough to know that in general “you get what you pay for” and my budget will allow about $50 for a blade right now give or take. I think I’d like a flat tooth grind in case I decide to cut channels, I don’t have a dado blade or budget for one atm. Should I go for thin kerf or standard? I’ve looked at Freud, Amana, CMT, FS tool, Tenryu, and Forrest among others. I’m trying to get best bang for the buck and a good match to my saw and work I’ll be doing.

So what do you think fellas?

3 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4403 posts in 3377 days

#1 posted 02-27-2016 04:05 PM

Thin kerf Freud 24 tooth. Big issue is proper set up of the saw. The other BIG issue is the proper set up of the saw.


View knotscott's profile


7145 posts in 2792 days

#2 posted 02-27-2016 04:16 PM

Thin kerf Freud 24 tooth. Big issue is proper set up of the saw. The other BIG issue is the proper set up of the saw.

- Bill White

Ditto what Bill said. Hard to go wrong with a good 24T 3/32” thin kerf rip blade like the Freud Industrial LU87, Freud Diablo D1024X, CMT Industrial 202.024.10, Irwin Marples, or Infinity 010-124. If the wood is flat and straight, and the saw is aligned well, these blades should give a good glue ready edge.

While a good blade is important, the real key to a glue ready edge is really having a flat face and a straight reference edge to place against the fence, so it can produce a uniform linear cut that’s exactly 90° to the face along the entire length of the board. A warped or twisted board that’s not flattened and straightened first is not likely to yield a clean cut because the board will be prone to rocking and won’t follow a straight path along the fence and blade. There is no blade available that will compensate for board that isn’t prepped with a reference face and square adjacent edge. A good 40T will provide a little smoother cut surface, but the physics principles of starting with a flat straight board remain the same. Do some research on methods of flattening and squaring a board, and you’ll find that within reason, many decent blades will yield an acceptable result for glue up.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Potato42's profile


2 posts in 237 days

#3 posted 02-27-2016 05:16 PM

Thanks for the replies and suggestions guys.

Can either of you guide me to the best article I could follow to make sure I get the saw set up properly? Do you have any suggestions for tools I should have to keep everything aligned?

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