Blade Change---buy wrench or blade loc?

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Forum topic by dmoney posted 02-20-2010 07:53 PM 4208 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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191 posts in 2503 days

02-20-2010 07:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: blade

okay, the used delta contractors saw came with the arbor nut wrench but not the open end wrench.

should I buy an open end wrench from a parts supplier on the web or buy a blade loc from rockler?

any other ideas?
right now I haven’t been able to change blades. could use a scrap or something but that seems like it might damage something.


-- Derek, Iowa

15 replies so far

View KMJohnson's profile


165 posts in 2444 days

#1 posted 02-20-2010 07:54 PM

Small scrap of wood works just fine.

-- Let's do it in the wood pile!

View webwood's profile


626 posts in 2674 days

#2 posted 02-20-2010 07:59 PM

thats how my grizzly is set up – one wrench and a block of wood

-- -erik & christy-

View trophy's profile


8 posts in 2501 days

#3 posted 02-20-2010 09:44 PM

All I ever use on my TS’s is the stamped steel arbor wrench and a block of wood I use to wedge against the blade to hold it steady as I turn the wrench. Keep it simple! Been doing this for 40 years now

-- Bruce, Upstate New York

View knotscott's profile


7147 posts in 2799 days

#4 posted 02-20-2010 09:49 PM

I’ll sell you a scrap of wood cheap! ;-)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Ger21's profile


1047 posts in 2554 days

#5 posted 02-20-2010 09:51 PM

I’ve never seen anyone use two wrenches to remove a TS blade. Scrap wood here too. And when tightening, it doesn’t need to be very tight. Just hold the blade with your free hand and tighten ‘til the nut is snug. That’s all you need.

-- Gerry,

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5108 posts in 2618 days

#6 posted 02-20-2010 10:17 PM

Grettings dmoney : First off….. Scrap the scrap of wood idea…. not a good idea. I broke the teeth off of a good Freud saw blade, and also 2 teeth of of one of my dado blades…...I would suggest getting a Blade Lock (I have that same one… works pretty good), or another wrench, preferrably a bent one from Delta….My Unisaw uses 2 for the inside arbor nut, and one for the nut to tighten down the blade. Again….I sure wouldn’t use a piece of scrap to remove the blade….just my assessement, and what happened to mine. The wrench is a lot cheaper than a saw or dado blade…......

Ger21…... Take a look at the new Unisaws… they use a 2 wrench system….

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

View miles125's profile


2180 posts in 3429 days

#7 posted 02-20-2010 10:27 PM

One wrench and tap it into the front of throatplate cutout to loosen and rear of cutout to tighten. Worked for me for bout 30 years :) Never seen anyone use two wrenches either.

-- "The way to make a small fortune in woodworking- start with a large one"

View trophy's profile


8 posts in 2501 days

#8 posted 02-20-2010 10:47 PM

I am not knocking Rick’s suggestion but my unisaws are the 60’s variety and a soft piece pine at the back side of the blade over the blades teeth with gentile pressure will hold any blade without any damage. I never in all my years damaged a blade or dado set using this method. I did put a slight 15 degree or so bend in the stamped steel arbor nut wrench just so the handle was away from the blade some and this was to make it more comfortable to use. just my 2 cents

-- Bruce, Upstate New York

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 2492 days

#9 posted 02-21-2010 12:27 AM

In over 25 years, I’ve never used anything but a block of wood and a wrench to remove a blade – except in a couple of cases where some dummy used two wrenches (and maybe some cheater pipe) to tighten the arbor nut.

Why anyone does that is beyond me. You just don’t need to wrench them half to death!!

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5108 posts in 2618 days

#10 posted 02-21-2010 01:41 AM

Greetings all : I agree completely that you don’t have to tighten the nut down so tight it takes Mr. Atlus to loosen it up, or Arny Swazinagor, either. My old saw (a 1985 Craftsman, which I still run) needed only one wrench, and a board, til I damaged the teeth( see previous post). That’s when I got the Blade Loc for that perticular saw, which I still use. BUT… when I got my new 2009 Unisaw, it uses 2 wrenches like I said, and sooo much sweeter… one bent wrench…one straight one.. I was just making sugesstions from experience….

Sawkerf: I couldn’t agree with you more on the brut force thing..stupid, and unnecessary.

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

View dmoney's profile


191 posts in 2503 days

#11 posted 02-21-2010 04:18 AM

I’ll probably keep using a scrap of wood, it works and doesn’t sound like it should hurt the blade as long as I’m careful and use soft wood. and it’s cheap

-- Derek, Iowa

View Ger21's profile


1047 posts in 2554 days

#12 posted 02-21-2010 02:53 PM

How can you break the teeth off the blade with a piece of wood?

When removing the blade, the teeth contact the wood as if they were cutting, pushing into the body of the blade. Even if the nut was put on way too tight, you shouldn’t have a problem.

I can see how this could happen if you use a block of wood to tighten the nut, as the wood is pushing the teeth away from the body. But, as I said, you don’t need to use a block of wood to tighten the blade. Just grab it and lightly tighten.

For the last 15 years I’ve worked in a shop with 4 tablesaws, 2 Powermatics and 2 Unisaws. Every blade change was done using scrap wood, and I’ve never seen a blade damaged.

Now I feel a bit foolish. My 15 year old Unisaw came with two wrenches as well, one bent, one straight. I just went out and checked, and didn’t think it would work at first. The reason is that you need to raise the blade up high to get the bent wrench on the arbor. You learn something new every day. :-) I’ll keep using a block of wood to change blades. But now I know what that second wrench is for.

-- Gerry,

View CharlieM1958's profile


16229 posts in 3642 days

#13 posted 02-21-2010 04:26 PM

My Ridgid saw came with two wrenches, and it’s just as easy as a block of wood. You just slip one wrench on behind the blade, and rotate until it contacts the throat opening. Then slip on the second wrench and pull.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View JayPique's profile


61 posts in 2711 days

#14 posted 02-21-2010 04:41 PM

On the big Delta 12-14” table saws you regularly see the front and back of the throat opening all chipped away and hollowed out where folks have slammed the arbor wrench to tighten and loosen the blade. I just use a block of wood to loosen, and when I tighten I set the wrench against the front of the throat opening and just tug on the blade until it’s snug.


View cliffton's profile


117 posts in 2505 days

#15 posted 02-21-2010 05:48 PM

My ridgid R4511 came with two wrenches. My craftsman I had before had two as well. I never set the wrench against the throat though, I dont want to chip my top.

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