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Which chuck for turning bowls?

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Forum topic by Johnson32 posted 02-24-2016 06:04 PM 930 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Johnson32

12 posts in 289 days


02-24-2016 06:04 PM

Just got my lathe set up last night. One of my projects id like to play around with are turkey calls, which are essentially small bowls. The chucks that came with my lathe don’t look like anything that would work from what I’ve seen online. What chuck would you recommend for this type of project?


23 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

4221 posts in 1662 days


#1 posted 02-24-2016 06:51 PM

Have you considered not using a chuck at all? How about a small glue block on the back of your blank. You can then either mount it to a face plate, or just drill/tap it to mount directly on your spindle.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Johnson32

12 posts in 289 days


#2 posted 02-24-2016 07:08 PM

I guess I didn’t know you could so something like that. How easy would it be to detach it from the glue when you’re finished?

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MrUnix

4221 posts in 1662 days


#3 posted 02-24-2016 07:24 PM

I guess I didn’t know you could so something like that. How easy would it be to detach it from the glue when you re finished?
- Johnson32

For small stuff, you can glue a piece of paper (paper grocery store bags work great) between the glue block and blank, and then it will just pop off easily. Or you can just part it off just like any other turning. For a small bowl type turning, you can make the glue surface fairly small, so you won’t need much to separate them. A quick google search will give you lots of info.

Regardless… finding a tap the proper size of your spindle will be an asset and expand your options greatly for all sorts of other things.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Johnson32

12 posts in 289 days


#4 posted 02-24-2016 07:27 PM

Good deal, thanks for all the information!

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Wildwood

1882 posts in 1597 days


#5 posted 02-24-2016 09:05 PM

If going to use the faceplate, waste blocks, & paper glue joints want to use sheet metal screws.

Before recommending a new scroll chuck need to know what size lathe you have & budget.
This site gives a good representation of scroll chucks but not the only site. Once figure out budget go shopping for price.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=chuck-fourjaw

-- Bill

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Johnson32

12 posts in 289 days


#6 posted 02-24-2016 09:13 PM

The lathe I bought (which is a beginners lathe being I’ve never done anything with woodworking before) was cheap but had decent reviews. It is a central machinery 12 in. x 33-3/8 in. 3/4 HP Wood Lathe with Reversible Head. From my research it looks like it has a 1”x8 chuck? I’m not sure if that’s the correct name for the threaded rod that sticks out of the headstock. Thanks again for all the help.

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OSU55

1056 posts in 1452 days


#7 posted 02-25-2016 01:10 PM

That sounds like the HF 34706, actually one of the HF gems, review here. It is a 1×8 spindle thread. In woodworking there are many correct ways to perform a particular task, and attaching work to a lathe spindle is one of those (there are incorrect methods that can have really bad consequences). Most find a method they like and trust and continue to use it. I suggest research on bowl turning and finding examples of the different attachment methods.

The tapped glue block is a good one, and a tap is only ~$25-$30. If you decide to go the chuck route, get a scroll chuck. Check out the Barracuda from PSI tools as well as the others suggested.

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Johnson32

12 posts in 289 days


#8 posted 02-25-2016 01:48 PM

Yes that is the exact lathe I have. I will look into the scroll chucks and the barracuda brand. Thank you!

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1882 posts in 1597 days


#9 posted 02-25-2016 04:13 PM

That HF 34706 is a great starter lathe your headstock spindle is 1” x 8 TPI and takes MT 2 drive center. If you use a mandrel for turkey call need one that is MT2. You can also turn calls with a four jaw chuck. I don’t turn calls just have an idea on some things used.

Least expensive 4- jaw scroll chucks use tommy bars for little more money can get single key operated chucks.
You need a chuck with 1” x 8TPI threaded insert to fit your lathe spindle. You can find chucks with 1” x 8 TPI direct threaded no need to buy threaded insert. Most chucks vendors charge extra for a threaded insert but some don’t. Being able to upgrade your chuck with new insert if switch lathes sometimes a bonus.

Example of direct threaded chuck.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=113103R&Category_Code=chuck-fourjaw-nova-ng3

Here is one vendor that does not charge for a chuck insert, verus .

http://www.thewoodturningstore.com/products/Hurricane-HTC100-4-Woodturning-Chuck-Dovetail-Jaws-with-Insert-62.html

For bowl turning standard jaws that come with a chuck work just fine for most projects. Good idea to look at other optional jaw sets & cost that fit that chuck. Some chucks come with multiple jaw sets.
For your lathe most 3 ½” or 4” chucks

-- Bill

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JADobson

681 posts in 1574 days


#10 posted 02-25-2016 04:24 PM

I turn my bowls with a faceplate but have used a chuck and actually prefer it. Just need to save my pennies. The chuck I’ve used is the Oneway Talon and it works very well. Made in Canada doesn’t hurt either!

-- James

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Bmezz

34 posts in 846 days


#11 posted 02-25-2016 04:40 PM

Don’t know how many times I’ve posted this advice but here I go again. Find a woodturning club in your area. More often than not they will offer a basic course and/or mentoring. This will save you money and bloodshed. In a few short sessions you will learn technique, tools, sharpening, accessories (like various chucks) as well safe operation. Don’t underestimate how badly you can get hurt woodturning. Trying to self teach is long and dangerous. Many lathes that come up for sale are by frustrated beginners. The course will pay for itself. All the best.

-- Member Valley Woodturners Ottawa

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jeff

988 posts in 2928 days


#12 posted 02-25-2016 06:36 PM

I have recently been trying/using a worm screw on my Nova G3,then a recessed tenon-I like it.I first started out between centers then a dovetail tenon then reversing in cole jaws to finish the bottom.Either way will work.

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View mrg's profile

mrg

659 posts in 2462 days


#13 posted 02-25-2016 07:26 PM

You didn’t mention what tools you will be using.
For bowls you will need a bowl gouge not a roughing or spindle gouge. The roughing and or spindle gouge has a tang and will bend the tool or worse case break the tool trying to rough the bowl. Spindle turning is when end grain faces the spindle and tail stocks. Face turning is when faces you and away from you while turning.

As mentioned above join a club and get mentored or take a class at the high school, wood craft etc.

-- mrg

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Johnson32

12 posts in 289 days


#14 posted 02-27-2016 04:59 AM

Thanks again for all of the information. I’m looking at the nova G3 4 jaw scroll chuck. It says in the description that It comes with a set screw for locking it on the spindle and if your lathe is not designed to accept a set screw it could ruin the spindle. I’m unsure if you are able to use a set screw with my lathe, I couldn’t find that information anywhere. I’m currently looking into finding a class, unfortunately no one around the area offers any classes so it will be a drive to get to a place that offers them. I got in contact with someone who works with wood lathes in my area and will be headed over to get as much information as I can.

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MrUnix

4221 posts in 1662 days


#15 posted 02-27-2016 05:03 AM

If you don’t plan on running the lathe in reverse, then you don’t need the set screw.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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