First router - Triton TRA001 or ???

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Forum topic by kdeboy posted 02-24-2016 03:35 AM 1934 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2 posts in 822 days

02-24-2016 03:35 AM

I’m in the market for my 1st table (only) router, and I really like the quick-lift ability of the Triton routers. Since the TRA001 is only a little more expensive than the MOF001, I’ve kind of decided on it, but I have a few concerns:

1. Some reviews say the 1/4” insert for the 1/2” collet that’s included with the TRA001 doesn’t hold bits securely. Is this something that’s been corrected by Triton in current production models? If not, is there a good aftermarket 1/4” collet available?

2. My other concern about the Triton routers (both) is parts/service availability in case something goes wrong. Who is the current importer.

3. Other than the Triton, what other routers are good quality and would let me do above-table bit changes? I’d kind of like to avoid paying for a lift if I don’t have too… If I decide to go with a 2 HP router, how does the Bosch MRC23 compare to the Triton MOF001? What other routers work well as a dedicated table router without having to buy a lift?


-- Ken Deboy,

10 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4986 posts in 2491 days

#1 posted 02-24-2016 12:38 PM

I’ve always had problems with those split sleeve adapters, but have not used the Triton one. The Triton I have came with a 1/4” collet (maybe it’s an earlier model?) but I think you can get a 1/4” collet from Elaire Corp (search for them). I’ve bought some of their collets for my Milwaukee routers and they are top notch, they had (for the Milwaukee) sizes that otherwise aren’t available like 3/8”, 8MM, etc. I’m not sure who’s running the show with them now, but they seem to be on a more solid footing than a few years ago. I like Triton routers, a lot of nice features especially for a table, like the collet coming above the table for bit changes. Even so, they are some other ones that are also good. My table has a Milwaukee 5625 in it, and it has the built in table features (without the above the table bit change stuff) as does the Milwaukee 5616. Not sure about how the Bosch compares, but anything with the Bosch name on it is going to be good (IMHO). There are some others, I’m those with experience with them will chime in.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Tennessee's profile


2873 posts in 2512 days

#2 posted 02-24-2016 12:55 PM

+1 for Bosch…

-- Tsunami Guitars and Custom Woodworking, Cleveland, TN

View Dabcan's profile


255 posts in 2669 days

#3 posted 02-24-2016 12:56 PM

I have both triton routers, here’s my thoughts:

3hp – powerful, I have it in a Kreg table, above table adjustments work great, I like the variable speed and the soft start is nice.

2hp – works well, but for out of table use it does not have a light, I didn’t realize how important this was until I replaced my old router with a triton that had no light. After two days of use of this router, heavy sparking, smoke, and the machine was not working right. while it was only two days old, the store I bought it from said it wasn’t their (elite tools) problem and told me to contact the importer/distributor. After contacting the distributor they immediately sent me a replacement and asked that I return my defective unit with the paid shipping label they sent me, but only when I had some time, no rush. The replacement has worked flawlessly.

Collet – between my two machines, I do have one 1/4” collet that doesn’t grip as well as the other, however it still tightens, and I somehow have three collets and two routers so there is a chance this is from an older router of mine.

I find the dust collection port to work well although the clear plastic covers collect sawdust quickly, making no it hard to see where you are cutting (combined with the lack of light this is a problem)

One last thing, if you plan to use this out of the table with some guide bushings, note that you can only fit the Triton guide bushes has in this router, they cost more than other guide bushings and are sometimes hard to find.

Hope that helps, if only for table use I’d buy it again, very happy with mine

-- @craftcollectif ,,

View JBrow's profile


1354 posts in 918 days

#4 posted 02-24-2016 03:52 PM


Regarding #3, router bit changing in a router table and a desire to avoid a router lift, I hinged my router table at the back and, when raised, a stay held the router and router table top in place. This arrangement brought the router and table up to eye level. If this arrangement will work for you, it frees you up to consider any plunge router.

Raising the table and router to eye level made changing router bits much easier than bending down and reaching up. However the router collet had to be dropped low enough so the wrench could grip the collet. I used the plunge mechanism on the router to quickly lower the router and then return it to an approximate cutting position. My router has a locking spindle making changing router bits a much easier 1 wrench operation.

The second advantage the hinged top offers is setting the depth of cut. Sighting down the table and working the router’s depth of cut mechanism allows depth of cut to be adjusted conveniently. My plunge router had a screw mechanism that could be used to raise and lower the router to set its depth of cut – another feature you may want to consider. The fence clamped to the table in T tracks keeps a work piece from sliding away when setting depth of cut.

I used the hinged router table top fitted with a 3+ hp plunge router with a spindle lock and no router lift for years with good success.

View firefighterontheside's profile (online now)


18176 posts in 1854 days

#5 posted 02-24-2016 04:07 PM

I found the same thing about 1/4” collet when I was researching for my tra001. I believe the problem was with 1/4” adapters that came with early models. Now they come with actual 1/4” and 1/2” collets. I have not had any problem with collets. I dedicated mine to the table. When you get, you will know why I would never use it free hand. They have also fixed the problem of older ones that had plastic adjustment gears. New ones have metal gears. Sometimes I have had trouble raising the router with above table handle. I believe the guide bars get sawdust in there and get a bit tight. I have fixed it by blowing some air into the router and leaving the cap off the plunge spring. Also I have begun just putting my hand inside the cabinet and lifting up a bit on the motor while I crank the handle. It’s not the perfect router lift situation, but it’s really good and a lot cheaper than buying a router and a separate lift.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View pintodeluxe's profile


5658 posts in 2811 days

#6 posted 02-24-2016 04:26 PM

There are really only two brands of routers with the full-feature built-in lifts. Freud made an excellent FT1700 that is no longer in production. I like mine so well I bought a spare for the router table, just in case my primary unit ever fails.

Tritons look good for the router table too.

Many other brands claim “above the table” adjustment, but only those two brands allow ALL adjustments and bit changes topside. If that feature is important to you, look at one of those, or buy any router and outfit it with a lift.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Adam's profile


41 posts in 2226 days

#7 posted 02-24-2016 05:13 PM

I have the Milwaukee 5625 in my table. So far, I like it. It is supposed to have some above the table adjustability, but the plate I have needs to be drilled, so I don’t have any firsthand experience with it. From what I’ve read online, it’s fairly good, though.

View Joel_B's profile


342 posts in 1379 days

#8 posted 02-24-2016 05:41 PM

I considered Triton when buying my last router but decided against it after reading some bad reviews and poor customer support. I went with the Milwaukee 5616-24 and have been pretty happy with it. It has an above table height adjustment, but its kind of pointless because you have reach below the table anyway to unlock the base to adjust it. I don’t find it a problem to adjust the height from below the the table. A good lift is probably best if you really want to do that. Ideally its good to have two routers, one that stays in the table and one for other uses. I don’t do enough woodworking to justify both. Festool makes some really nice routers if you can afford them.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View josephf's profile


197 posts in 2094 days

#9 posted 02-24-2016 10:13 PM

You said “your first router” .To that i say get it !! Yeah it is a bit cheap but for the money it can do alot . It is by far not the best out there but it is very functional . Once you get it and use it awhile you will know more what qualities you want for your next one . It may serve your needs very well .I have the smaller one . It has it’s place in my shop .

View hotbyte's profile


991 posts in 2973 days

#10 posted 02-24-2016 11:21 PM

I have the TRA001 and really like it. It has the 1/4” adapter for collet and mine seems OK what little I’ve used it. I generally use my old PC 690 for smaller bits.

I use the rack & pinion handle and fine adjust more than the above table but router table isn’t enclosed to easy to reach under.

I really like the auto lock for changing bits with 1 wrench. My PC 690 takes 2 wrenches and the Triton is much better.

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