LumberJocks

Relocating Band Saw Motor

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Carvhors posted 02-20-2016 06:57 PM 652 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Carvhors's profile

Carvhors

7 posts in 287 days


02-20-2016 06:57 PM

Hi All! New member here, but frequent reader of this forum; and a long-time hobbyist woodworker.

I just acquired a Craftsman 14” bandsaw (113.248340) from a friend…a good deal…FREE! I finally replaced my Delta 8” bench-top saw! The saw runs great. Still needs a few minor adjustments and a new belt, but there are two problems, or drawbacks, with the saw. 1.) the stock metal stand is a bit flimsy and I notice some minor vibration in the saw when it’s running, and 2.) the stock stand with the motor mounted on top and to the rear of the saw body takes up precious floor space. What I’d like to do is build a mobile cabinet base and mount the motor in the cabinet UNDER the saw. My question: is there any issue with relocating the motor that I may not be thinking of? Nothing would change (belt length or motor rotation). Seems like a no-brainer to me, but wanted to run it past some seasoned fellow-woodworkers.


19 replies so far

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

423 posts in 585 days


#1 posted 02-21-2016 12:07 AM

#1 How much space are you going to gain? #2 Vibration…you would get used to it. #3 For a free tool I would question the economics of trying to convert it to a standard type band-saw. Quite frankly I have never seen your saw design before…I’m curious now.

View TheWoodRaccoon's profile

TheWoodRaccoon

364 posts in 390 days


#2 posted 02-21-2016 12:15 AM

Go for it! You could build a sturdy cabinet from quality plywood. Just make sure you don’t make the base to small, or it could be untable and tip over. Here’s a thread someone made recently asking the same question about the same bandsaw!

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/141706

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

423 posts in 585 days


#3 posted 02-21-2016 12:23 AM

Ok…Sears has the manual on-line…guess it would work. Probably require some angle steel and maybe a new belt once you get it mounted (unless you are lucky enough to mount the saw and motor so the existing belt will work). Your top-side pulley cover will need modifications. And you’ll need an access door in your base but no big deal there…few people ever open that panel on the Delta/Delta clones.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2176 posts in 1485 days


#4 posted 02-21-2016 07:24 AM

You might be able to mount the motor under the saw. Don’t fret about belt length; they aren’t that expensive. Not wanting to insult you—but you do realize that you do not have to put a Craftsman belt on that saw, don’t you? I ask because sometimes people believe that to be the case, and they discover that Sears has made the belt obsolete.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Carvhors's profile

Carvhors

7 posts in 287 days


#5 posted 02-23-2016 03:29 AM


#1 How much space are you going to gain? #2 Vibration…you would get used to it. #3 For a free tool I would question the economics of trying to convert it to a standard type band-saw. Quite frankly I have never seen your saw design before…I m curious now.

- teejk02

It’s not so much that actual space gained, though in a small shop, every bit counts. It’s more of where this saw will need to nestled into when not in use, and the ease of pulling it out when needed. As far as economics, the saw cost me nothing. The belt needs to be replaced anyways, so I’ll most likely upgrade to a link belt…this will help with the vibration as well. I also need to build a mobile base for the saw, so that can just be designed/integrated into the custom cabinet base. My only real investment will only be my time. Thanks for you input, teejk02!

View Carvhors's profile

Carvhors

7 posts in 287 days


#6 posted 02-23-2016 03:32 AM



You might be able to mount the motor under the saw. Don t fret about belt length; they aren t that expensive. Not wanting to insult you—but you do realize that you do not have to put a Craftsman belt on that saw, don t you? I ask because sometimes people believe that to be the case, and they discover that Sears has made the belt obsolete.

- runswithscissors

No insult taken. Yes, I realize the belt doesn’t need to be replaced with a Crafsman. I have a C-man contractor saw that I refurbished and replaced the stock belt with a twist link belt…best move I ever made! Runs as smooth as can be with little-to-no vibration. I plan I getting a link belt for this band saw. Thanks for the input!

View Carvhors's profile

Carvhors

7 posts in 287 days


#7 posted 02-23-2016 03:33 AM



Go for it! You could build a sturdy cabinet from quality plywood. Just make sure you don t make the base to small, or it could be untable and tip over. Here s a thread someone made recently asking the same question about the same bandsaw!

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/141706

- TheWoodRaccoon

Thanks for the input!

View Carvhors's profile

Carvhors

7 posts in 287 days


#8 posted 02-23-2016 03:34 AM



Ok…Sears has the manual on-line…guess it would work. Probably require some angle steel and maybe a new belt once you get it mounted (unless you are lucky enough to mount the saw and motor so the existing belt will work). Your top-side pulley cover will need modifications. And you ll need an access door in your base but no big deal there…few people ever open that panel on the Delta/Delta clones.

- teejk02


Thanks, teejk02!

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

4206 posts in 1659 days


#9 posted 02-23-2016 03:37 AM

There is no reason why you could not move the motor wherever you want… A smaller enclosed base that houses the motor would work fine, provide a smaller footprint, and help keep sawdust out of the motor. Casters could be incorporated as well, negating the need for a separate mobile base.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7475 posts in 1467 days


#10 posted 02-23-2016 02:10 PM

I’ve had an older Delta 14” for several years now and have always thought that one day I would relocate the motor to be UNDER the saw, rather than on the stand beside it. The way it is setup now I can t open the bottom door all the way, plus I’ve always thought it would be better for the motor to be better protected from the sawdust.
Let us know how it works out for you.

Oh yeah… WELCOME to LJs !

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View jonlruss's profile

jonlruss

97 posts in 574 days


#11 posted 02-23-2016 06:46 PM

I started the other thread with the same question. My saw is a different model #, but I couldn’t tell you what the difference between mine and yours is. I’m almost done with everything, just a couple of minor things to complete it. I planned on doing a blog once I’m done, but I’ll be glad to share some of what I’ve found while doing this.

The base I’ve made is open using parts from a flip top stand I had built, then found I didn’t really need. I had originally planned to have the saw sitting so the belt ran down the side of the stand, but decided against that since it’d throw off the center of balance. Instead, I centered the saw and cut a hole in the top large enough for the belt cover to fit with enough room to remove it. Also, I got a Portamate mobile base to mount the stand on so the mobile part of mine is different from what you have planned. The top is 20”x 20” and the saw is very stable. I’m not sure how much of that is due to what I’ve built it from (double layer 3/4” CDX top, 4×4 legs), but even on the mobile base I don’t have any problem with balance.

I wanted to keep the belt cover (and like you will be putting a link belt on it) as-is but one thing I found that was a problem for me was that having the top 1-1/2” thick, the motor had to be mounted with the bump out on the top of it (the capacitor I think?) almost right up against the underside of the top. Even then, the shaft of the motor sat on the opening of the back part of the belt cover opening for it. I ended up having to grind the opening for the pulley and shaft a little larger to keep it from rubbing.

Another problem I ran into was the cord from the saw switch to the motor has a plug that looks like a computer cord to power supply plug. Once the motor is below the saw the cord is too short. I debated on using a computer cord to replace the cord from the switch, but even though it’s the same gauge wire, I decided it was too light weight. What I did was go to the home center and buy a power tool replacement cord (the specs between the two cords is pretty much the same, 16AWG3X SVT). Using that cord I’m wiring the motor directly to the switch with no plug in between.

I should finish everything soon and will then start on what I need to get done to the saw itself, and once I do I’ll blog everything with a few pics. Good luck with yours and hopefully I’ve been a little bit of help.

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

4206 posts in 1659 days


#12 posted 02-23-2016 08:41 PM

Keep in mind that for many decades, motors were optional purchases for bandsaws… you could get a machine already setup properly, buy the saw and motor and make your own base, or just buy the machine bare and use your own motor and stand. Belt guards were optional as well. That allowed an almost unlimited amount of flexibility in how they got setup and used.

So…. a lot of people have come up with some very impressive bases (and belt guards) that are more functional and much better looking than anything that was available from the manufacturer. Just depends on how creative you are and how much work you want to spend on it. If you want some inspiration, take a look at this thread over at the OWWM site: Shopmade machine bases: The cream of the crop

You can make them out of whatever you like… MDF is a popular choice as you can get a cast iron look pretty easily. Some are quite amazing… and here is one of my favorites (A Craftsman badged bandsaw made by Duro):

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View TheWoodRaccoon's profile

TheWoodRaccoon

364 posts in 390 days


#13 posted 02-23-2016 11:35 PM



Keep in mind that for many decades, motors were optional purchases for bandsaws… you could get a machine already setup properly, buy the saw and motor and make your own base, or just buy the machine bare and use your own motor and stand. Belt guards were optional as well. That allowed an almost unlimited amount of flexibility in how they got setup and used.

So…. a lot of people have come up with some very impressive bases (and belt guards) that are more functional and much better looking than anything that was available from the manufacturer. Just depends on how creative you are and how much work you want to spend on it. If you want some inspiration, take a look at this thread over at the OWWM site: Shopmade machine bases: The cream of the crop

You can make them out of whatever you like… MDF is a popular choice as you can get a cast iron look pretty easily. Some are quite amazing… and here is one of my favorites (A Craftsman badged bandsaw made by Duro):

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

The pieces in that thread dropped my jaw, i was in disbelief. So much so that i bookmarked it in my browser. Thanks for sharing that!

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

3926 posts in 2704 days


#14 posted 02-24-2016 04:14 PM

I did just that to my Ridgid 14” BS. The stand came with the saw. It was fairly sturdy, but I strengthened it a bit more. I added 2 pieces of 3/4” plywood half way down the stand and mounted the motor to that. I cut a rectangular opening in the top of the stand so the drive belt could pass through and made a guard to cover the belt. The saw is now more sturdy and vibration is much less. Moving the motor below the saw improves the center of gravity. It didn’t change the foot print. I tried to upload a picture, but LJ is having problems with photo uploading. When they fix the problem, I will get back with a picture.

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7475 posts in 1467 days


#15 posted 02-24-2016 06:10 PM


Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

Looks like an old radiator grill surround from an antique car ! LOVE IT !

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

showing 1 through 15 of 19 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com