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DJ-20 fence compatibility with perhaps Grizzly G0490

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Forum topic by synergiesabound posted 02-19-2016 04:31 PM 724 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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synergiesabound

24 posts in 296 days


02-19-2016 04:31 PM

Hi, I recently picked up a pristine DJ-20 without a fence assembly. Would you happen to know where I can pick one up?

I hear the Grizzly G0490 bolts right on but I’m not sure? If you have a G0490 would you mind measuring the distance between the mounting bolt holes? And perhaps the distance from the same bolt holes to the top of a flush outfeed table?

Thank you very much, I’m new to all this and appreciate this website.


19 replies so far

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pintodeluxe

4856 posts in 2277 days


#1 posted 02-19-2016 05:48 PM

Grizzly G0490 or Shopfox 1741 would be good bets. They appear to be clones. The DJ-20 is a solid tool, I think you will like it.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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synergiesabound

24 posts in 296 days


#2 posted 02-19-2016 05:52 PM

Thanks for your reply Pintodeluxe, I appreciate that.

I have a 6” Delta Rockwell 37-220 which does great but it’s like I just got to the Majors with this 8” DJ-20. I spent $300 for the unit in pristine condition hoping to simply pick up a fence. Hope that wasn’t a mistake.

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pintodeluxe

4856 posts in 2277 days


#3 posted 02-19-2016 05:55 PM

Toolparts Direct appears to have the fence and related parts piecemeal. If the link doesn’t take you directly to the schematic, choose “shop by brand” , pick Delta, and type in your model #
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/delta-37-350-8-jointer.html

The fence is half way reasonably priced, but you will need to add up all the pivots, bolts and associated hardware to see the total cost.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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synergiesabound

24 posts in 296 days


#4 posted 02-19-2016 06:11 PM

The part is actually not available.

If the bolt holes on the Grizzly replacement fence make a swap feasible I guess I can rig something that can offer the adjustability I’d need. Obviously moving it across the blade is essential. No need for anything other than 90s at this point but you know how it goes with wanting to get it to full functionality.

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Ger21

1047 posts in 2595 days


#5 posted 02-19-2016 08:26 PM


Hope that wasn t a mistake.

You can sell that for more than you paid in one day on Craigslist. But it’ll cost you 5x more to get something equivalent with a fence, if you’re buying new.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1212 posts in 1574 days


#6 posted 02-19-2016 08:31 PM

Remember… There’s nothing at all precision about moving the fence across the knives, it doesn’t even have to stay perfectly parallel to board travel. On my DJ-20, I don’t even worry if the fence is square to the tables when I’m face jointing, only when I’m squaring an edge. Sometimes, I don’t even contact the fence when face jointing.

Whatever you come up with, the focus only needs to be maintaining a vertical angle in relation to the tables when edge jointing. The rest is gravy.

I’ve seen larger, 12 and 16 inch jointers in pro shops that don’t even have fences installed, as they’re used exclusively for faces.

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synergiesabound

24 posts in 296 days


#7 posted 02-20-2016 03:06 AM

Ger21, the fence is quite important to me since I upgraded from a 6” to the 8” in order to face 8” boards. Thanks for the input, I guess this DJ-20 is worth the money I spent. I guess I feel a little bit better, even better when I can 45 with it, lol.

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synergiesabound

24 posts in 296 days


#8 posted 02-20-2016 03:11 AM

Oggie, thanks you for the input. I realized what you were saying about not necessarily needing the fence after a few passes as a newbie with my 6”. I’m thinking I can clamp a board when I need to make full 8” passes, but that kinda bites. Thanks for the info. If ya got any other suggestions I’d love to hear em. ;)

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synergiesabound

24 posts in 296 days


#9 posted 02-20-2016 03:12 AM

Anyone have any ideas about aftermarket fences? or any other solution? Thanks.

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Fred Hargis

3941 posts in 1957 days


#10 posted 02-20-2016 12:42 PM

While I think some of them will work, I doubt any of them will be plug and play. You will most likely have to rework some aspect of them to get them functional. Still seems like the easiest approach, even if a machine shop has to help.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Ger21

1047 posts in 2595 days


#11 posted 02-20-2016 01:39 PM

Your easiest option is to build a fence from baltic birch. Like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTjFkFWQ51g

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1212 posts in 1574 days


#12 posted 02-20-2016 02:09 PM

Looking at mine, the hard part is building the right angle fixture that joins the fence to the bed mounting plate, allowing it to slide forward and back. You could clamp it with a threaded knob through the slot in the mounting plate.

To keep it simpler for starters, you could stick with a set, but shimmable for fine tuning, 90 deg fence.

I haven’t watched Ger’s posted video, but BB ply would work fine, with the fence itself laminated both sides with Formica. You just need to ensure it’s not twisted, warped or bent, but you’ve got the outfeed table to use as a reference. With Ply, you could use the torsion box method that’s all over the web and in books.

You could also brick up a 1 1/2 – 2” thick fence from a super stable wood like Mahogany, and face joint the stack after the glue dries for a few weeks. I build sled fences this way, from 1-1/2 to 2” wide face frame scraps. This would ensure a flat face, and you’d shim it perfectly vertical to the mount assembly. Paste wax the heck out of the working face to help the action.

If the solid fence goes out of flat in the future, remove the fence face and give it another thin face jointing.

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synergiesabound

24 posts in 296 days


#13 posted 02-21-2016 05:50 AM

Thanks Fred. Building my own fence sounds like another project. This wood working thing sure seems to take a lot of time doing other things like building jigs and the likes. Ger21, I watched that video and looks good imo but the DJ-20 seems to only have the 2 mounting bolts that insert horizontally. Oggie, thanks for the torsion box tip, it’s a new one on me that I need to check out. I’m not sure where to find laminated Baltic Birch, which seems to do well for these sort of applications where things need to slide and keep straight over time, so I’m thinking your glue up might be the ticket. Would this technique be utilizing the end grain as the face?

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Joseph Jossem

492 posts in 1733 days


#14 posted 02-21-2016 06:28 AM

op let me know how this pans out I asked same question few weeks ago not 1 answer. theres another post with a email for oliver that sells parts also I think Mahalo JJ

View Ger21's profile

Ger21

1047 posts in 2595 days


#15 posted 02-21-2016 02:02 PM


Ger21, I watched that video and looks good imo but the DJ-20 seems to only have the 2 mounting bolts that insert horizontally.

So, if you look at the parts list in the link above, you don’t even have [art #10, which bolts to those two holes?
If that’s the case, get yourself a piece of 3”x3”x3/8” steel angle, bolt it using those two bolts, and mount your homemade fence assembly to the angle.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=9886&step=4&showunits=inches&id=276&top_cat=849
Watch this video to see how this guy built a fence for his homemade jointer, starting around the 40 second mark.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2hbm5yU18U

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

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