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Forum topic by Biggamefish posted 02-17-2016 01:15 PM 564 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Biggamefish

47 posts in 888 days


02-17-2016 01:15 PM

I am sure this has been covered but!!

I am making wine stoppers calls bowl etc. I like the BLO with wax over it look but sometimes I want a shiny look. What do you guys suggest?

-- ><((((º>`·. .· `·. .· `·... ><((((º> · `·. . . . .· `·.. ><((((º>`·. .· `·... ><((((º> 


10 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4037 posts in 1819 days


#1 posted 02-17-2016 01:48 PM

Shine Juice, check Captain Eddy’s site for the recipe. I believe it is 1/3 BLO, 1/3 white shellac and 1/3 Denatured alcohol. It is a friction polish and dries as you apply it, very easy nice finish.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

4997 posts in 3131 days


#2 posted 02-17-2016 02:15 PM

Shine juice is an easy finish, but doesn’t hold up on items that are going to be handled a lot.

On stuff that is going to be handled a lot, I use 3 to 4 coats of wipe-on poly. It is not as easy as shine juice, but results in a very durable finish.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1888 posts in 1603 days


#3 posted 02-17-2016 09:32 PM

Wipe on poly about the easiest finish can find but have to watch amount of resin (poly/varnish) to solvent/thinner. Read the label if contains more than 60% solvent/thinner find another brand. Two cost of wipe on poly should equal one coat of film finish (regular poly). When increase amount of solvent/thinner requires more coats. You may as well mix your own 50/50 mix.

Here is an example of what I am talking about with 70% solvent/thinner.
http://www.minwax.com/document/MSDS/en/027426609006

You will get a faster build of finish using straight high glose poly or making your own 50/50 mix in less time.

BLO & wax are not a finish nor provides any protection for your bottle stoppers.

-- Bill

View jeff's profile

jeff

990 posts in 2933 days


#4 posted 02-18-2016 06:43 AM

I like Pens Plus from Doctors Woodshop.Some times I use CA glue if the stopper has more of a spindle shape with gentle curves-its easier to sand.Applying ca glue in grooves and then sanding-well its tuffer to get into the grooves and sand.I do want to try WOP on my next bottle stoppers.

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View Biggamefish's profile

Biggamefish

47 posts in 888 days


#5 posted 02-18-2016 06:09 PM

What about the minwax finishing waxes? Would they last on winestoppers etc?

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View TheDane's profile

TheDane

4997 posts in 3131 days


#6 posted 02-18-2016 11:13 PM

What about the minwax finishing waxes? Would they last on winestoppers etc?
I wouldn’t go there … wax never completely cures and will quickly lose its luster from being handled.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 620 days


#7 posted 02-19-2016 01:12 AM

Wildwood>BLO & wax are not a finish nor provides any protection for your bottle stoppers.
Look up the definition of a finish, for centuries that was all they used in the 1000-1800 +. Wax and BLO which back then was just LO B4 they found drier additives, and named it BLO. They did not start using Shellac until some where in the 1800s. Museum restorations of things made in the Middle Ages was all done originally with wax and LO. Then when with restoration they started to use Shellac to get a longer lasting finish and some of the same look.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View cdaniels's profile

cdaniels

1311 posts in 969 days


#8 posted 02-19-2016 01:37 AM

I don’t have good luck with shine juice, for those items because they are used a lot outside and around alcahol shine juice won’t work. alcahol will eat through the finish almost instantly. Use CA glue, polish the crap out of it and put a few coats of high gloss poly on top. presto!

-- Jesus was a carpenter... I'm just saying

View Biggamefish's profile

Biggamefish

47 posts in 888 days


#9 posted 02-22-2016 02:16 PM

Thanks for all the info guys. I ended up buying some fishes and in the mean time I tried out the massey finish. I really like the way it came out and it was easy to do. I currently have a few calls drying with it. When the other stuff comes in I am going to try it on a bowl and hope to post pics.

Thanks again.

-- ><((((º>`·. .· `·. .· `·... ><((((º> · `·. . . . .· `·.. ><((((º>`·. .· `·... ><((((º> 

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1888 posts in 1603 days


#10 posted 02-22-2016 10:08 PM

CONIFUR, stand by my post.

Will find more chemical additives than oil in BLO. At one time might find lead, manganese and or cobalt added to linseed oil. Have no idea what is in the stuff other than label stating 100% linseed oil. So basically saying you have some oil & dryers. If read can label or MSDS/SDS for the stuff they tell you to wear PPE when handling.

BLO, darkens wood, allows wood to absorb moisture, and may promote mold growth!

Yes for several centuries sun thickened linseed oil & Stand oil (heated linseed oil) used by artist and other trades. Many self appointed guru’s say stand oil was the first BLO. There are no recorded records to support their supposition. BLO is a product of the 19th or 20th century!

How many people do you think would buy a bottle stopper if knew had to reapply BLO & wax often just to keep up appearance. Who would tell those customers that BLO can take eight to eighteen hours or longer to dry before applying wax?

-- Bill

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