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Replacing table saw blade

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Forum topic by zipmac22 posted 02-16-2016 04:33 AM 742 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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zipmac22

9 posts in 320 days


02-16-2016 04:33 AM

Hi Everyone, I’m a beginner in the wood working world and just bought my first table saw, a Bosch 4100. I had bought a better blade, a Freud LU84R011 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade to replace the stock blade that came with the saw. When I took off the stock Bosch blade the face plate was facing forwards, but the Freud blade the face plate ended up facing backwards showing the backside of the blade.

My question…as long as the teeth of the blade are moving down towards the front of the saw I’m good to go? Is it common for some blades to face forwards while others face backwards?


13 replies so far

View Timberwolf323's profile

Timberwolf323

67 posts in 309 days


#1 posted 02-16-2016 04:38 AM

Doesn’t matter which side of the blade the words are on. Just that the cutting teeth spin towards and down into the table you as you cut. If you install the blade backwards it’ll just burn and smoke the lumber. (Ask me how I know this ) LOL

Also. Always keep your blades clean. I inspect mine once a week for pitch/sap build up. It looks like dried snot on the carbide tips. Simple green works pretty well. Vm/p naptha works too. I have a small scrub brush( it’s nylon I believe) to help remove stubborn pitch. And be wary. Carbide will cut your fingers quickly. Don’t forget to oil the blade lightly if you use a water based product to clean it to prevent rust.

View 716's profile

716

502 posts in 383 days


#2 posted 02-16-2016 04:41 AM

Many blades have an arrow or something similar to arrows pointing the direction of the rotation in case you are in doubt.

-- It's nice!

View MadMark's profile

MadMark

978 posts in 919 days


#3 posted 02-16-2016 05:19 AM

There are left and right tilt saws. Thats why the blades are marked on different sides to fit the matching tilt saw. Reverse mounting blades is an old trick to cut thin alum. If your tools are metric be sure to use metric oil like they have in Canada. If you get stuck most shops will loan you the metric / english conversion funnel.

M

Answers: $1
Correct Answers: $5
Dumb looks are still free!

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

View Timberwolf323's profile

Timberwolf323

67 posts in 309 days


#4 posted 02-16-2016 06:15 AM



There are left and right tilt saws. Thats why the blades are marked on different sides to fit the matching tilt saw. Reverse mounting blades is an old trick to cut thin alum. If your tools are metric be sure to use metric oil like they have in Canada. If you get stuck most shops will loan you the metric / english conversion funnel.

M

Answers: $1
Correct Answers: $5
Dumb looks are still free!

- MadMark

I keep my metric tool lubricant stored under the work bench next to my wood stretcher.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7224 posts in 2842 days


#5 posted 02-16-2016 10:40 AM

As long as the carbide teeth are in front when it rotates and are supported by the shoulder, you’re fine.


Since you said you’re new to this, I think you’d be better off with the 3/32” thin kerf version of that blade…the LU83R010. The LU84 is 25% wider, and thus requires more power to make the same cuts…it’ll work, but will struggle more in thicker materials.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2198 posts in 947 days


#6 posted 02-16-2016 12:53 PM

Before you even turn on that saw, read the manual twice and watch at least 2 TS safety videos.

You’ll need to check a few alignment specs so watch a couple vids on tuning up a TS.

PLEASE get or make you some push blocks or buy one of those Grrrrriper thingamajigs before you every cut a piece of wood.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View leftcoaster's profile

leftcoaster

82 posts in 343 days


#7 posted 02-16-2016 02:23 PM

What kind of oil do people use on the blades after cleaning?

What about on the mechanism that raises/lowers the saw? Mine makes a lot of noise and I’m thinking it needs some lubricant of some kind.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4457 posts in 3427 days


#8 posted 02-16-2016 03:15 PM

I NEVER oil a blade. Wash blade in Simple Green or Arm & Hammer washing SODA (not baking soda), rinse onder hot water, dry, cut wood. The Freud blades are coated to prevent rust, etc.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Ger21's profile

Ger21

1047 posts in 2598 days


#9 posted 02-16-2016 03:15 PM

I would never oil my blades. Just keep them dry.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

View 716's profile

716

502 posts in 383 days


#10 posted 02-16-2016 03:19 PM

On the blade ? Someone above mentioned metric oil, they are messing with you. You definitely need imperial oil 1/32” thick.

-- It's nice!

View leftcoaster's profile

leftcoaster

82 posts in 343 days


#11 posted 02-16-2016 03:24 PM

Thanks guys—it looks like my photo will remain under “gullible” in the dictionary. :)

What about the parts under the saw for raising/lifting—what kind of oil is best there?

View MadMark's profile

MadMark

978 posts in 919 days


#12 posted 02-16-2016 03:25 PM

(Choke, chortle, snort)

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2192 posts in 1492 days


#13 posted 02-16-2016 11:42 PM

Don’t oil the parts under the table. Sawdust will stick to the oil and you’ll have a mess. Wax is good, or maybe Dri-Lube—something that won’t gum up.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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