Custom stands for my cutting boards....need some advice!

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Forum topic by sbuckle posted 02-15-2016 07:40 AM 1201 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View sbuckle's profile


69 posts in 2062 days

02-15-2016 07:40 AM

Topic tags/keywords: process jig question resource tablesaw milling

Hi all!

I make custom cutting boards and I give stands with each board to display them as well as to assist in drying after cleaning. They are made of the scraps left over and I an trying to come up with a process to rapidly reproduce them. I have tried cutting the slot out on the band saw and then put the side piece in a jig and pattern route the slot but there is some tear out. I have tried a jig on the table saw with my dado blades. Basically uncomfortable with the dado raised that much. I have recently band sawed the slot and then sanded the inside with a drum sander. This system works good but takes a little longer and increases the number of steps involved.

The stand below was made by drilling a 1” hole and then band saw the straight parts and then sanding. My nearer ones have a flat bottom, sloped side with 1/4” radius’.

I am looking for any suggestions or experiences!

Thanks all!

Steve B.

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

13 replies so far

View gwilki's profile


203 posts in 1498 days

#1 posted 02-15-2016 07:33 PM

The pic does not show how the two “rails” are attached to the cross member, so I may be misunderstanding your question.

Do you have a table saw?

I would simply take a piece of stock that is twice as wide as you want the height of the rails to be. Drill a hole in the middle of it, cut through the middle of the board to produce the pieces for the two rails, then cut them to length. I would use a simply butt joint to attach the spreader to the rails. Any good glue will certainly hold it together, given the purpose that it is being used for.

I may be oversimplifying things, but this really does not seem like a complicated project. If you don’t have a table saw, your band saw will accomplish the same thing. I just prefer a table saw as it ensures straight and square cuts.

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

View Todd's profile


398 posts in 1701 days

#2 posted 02-15-2016 08:06 PM

I know this is not the answer you are looking for but I give away these twisted wire picture stands with mine. You can get them at Hobby Lobby for a few bucks or on-line. They will accommodate a board >1” thick. They come in several sizes.

-- Todd, Huntsville, AL

View sbuckle's profile


69 posts in 2062 days

#3 posted 02-16-2016 12:13 AM

Thanks Grant. I made the stand above and what I am looking at is the cutout for the board to sit into. Sometimes the slot is 1.75” to accommodate a 1.5” board. If I drill a 1.75 hole I would need a 3” piece, which would be to large and quite ugly. I understand your method! I usually mark the pattern on the piece and just cut it on the band saw and then sand it smooth. The system works okay but I am looking for a method that would be more accurate and quicker and repeatable.

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

View sbuckle's profile


69 posts in 2062 days

#4 posted 02-16-2016 12:20 AM

Thanks Todd. I could use these for the smaller boards. The larger boards would crush these. I am promoting a sustainable business and I use almost every piece of wood over 5”. I also made this type of stand, below. But the wooden one above is cheap because I use my scrap and I can make them fairly quick but as my sales are ramping up they take longer than I want to spend for something I give away. (The cost is built into the price of the board but I am going to sell the boards wholesale to stores this year and it is all about the bottom line!)

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

View sbuckle's profile


69 posts in 2062 days

#5 posted 02-16-2016 12:28 AM

I should add the most important issue is that the slot is accurate. I am thinking a jig for the table saw to cut the slot and then over to the band saw to cut the bottom and then sand the bottom. I would save a step of sanding the inside slot straight. Ideas??

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

View chiseler's profile


124 posts in 913 days

#6 posted 02-16-2016 01:15 AM

Have you tried using a template bit in the router table and climb cutting?Your jig would have to be big enough to hold onto and maybe have a hold down,but you should be able to avoid any tear out.I’ve done similar things this way with good results.

-- Scott.Triangle,NY Becareful and don't forget...They cut meat too! Ask me how I know

View sbuckle's profile


69 posts in 2062 days

#7 posted 02-16-2016 03:16 AM

Thanks Scott, I have tried it with a jig and pattern bit. I would cut the slot out 1/32” shy of the line and finish it off in the jig/router. I found it left rough parts against the grain and I had to sand it. Maybe I could do the same with a pattern sanding drum?? Something like this if I can get a small enough drum, 1/2”?

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

View JBrow's profile


1361 posts in 944 days

#8 posted 02-16-2016 03:35 AM


Your current stand indeed requires a lot of time, especially in a production environment. My idea is similar to the four peg stand photo you posted, but is somewhat different. This method would require some design work to get the dimensions and angles just right, but once dialed in, no further changes are needed.

First, glue up the cutting boards a little longer. Long enough so that the excess cut from the cutting board becomes the base for the stand. Then:

1) Cut the cutting board cut-off to size (base).
2) Glue a 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” (I assume this is your stock dimensions) to the front lip on the cutting board cut-off stand at the front. However, I think ¾” x 1-1/2” may look a little better as the front lip.
3) Cut 60 degree miters on the ends of two 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” scraps.
4) Then notch the opposite ends from the mitered ends. Cutting notches in the cutting board and the pair of vertical members so that the vertical members stand proud of the back edge of the cutting board make edge profiling easier and faster.
5) Edge profile the stock
6) Glue the notched corners to the back side of the cutting board.

View sbuckle's profile


69 posts in 2062 days

#9 posted 02-16-2016 04:43 AM

JBrow, interesting, worth a look! Thanks!

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

View Timberwolf323's profile


69 posts in 867 days

#10 posted 02-16-2016 05:05 AM

I’ve found that sometimes it’s just easier and more efficient to spend a few days a month batching out parts for stuff like this. Jbrow is on to something here. But it would be much more efficient for you to make these stands before you need them. So you can just reach in a box and grab one. When stock gets low just batch out some more.

In your first picture Steve those side pieces could be made with a Forstner bit. Set a fence and a stop block so you can make repeatable holes. Then just rip the top off with your table saw. I would use a grripper because of their size and the control over the workpiece. but that’s just me. You could even use a mini domino for the joinery. Overkill maybe. But definitely a time saver.

View sbuckle's profile


69 posts in 2062 days

#11 posted 02-17-2016 03:58 AM

Timberwolf323, this was the way I did them in the beginning but anything over 1” just took to much meat. As well the radius over 1” means the square bottom board had a 1/2” space under it in the stand. So I am trying to incorporate a flat bottom on the slot of the stands with a 1/4” radius on each corner, if that makes sense. I agree with making them ahead, which I do, I have 25 ready in the pieces stage waiting to refine the process. Thanks for the input!!

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

View JAAune's profile


1802 posts in 2341 days

#12 posted 02-17-2016 05:33 AM

A series of dedicated routers and a part holding jig that can be moved through all the steps is one way to do it. You’d need a couple routers setup to hog out wood in stepped increments then a final one for a last cleanup pass. Use a tumbler to finish sand everything after assembly for maximum time savings.

The alternative is to simply focus on cutting boards then outsource the production of the stands to a CNC-equipped shop. If you’re going through hundreds of them that would be an option.

-- See my work at and

View sbuckle's profile


69 posts in 2062 days

#13 posted 02-17-2016 05:50 AM

Thanks JAAune, I appreciate the comment!!

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

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