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Danish oil

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Forum topic by jeffswildwood posted 02-14-2016 02:06 PM 648 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jeffswildwood

1331 posts in 1445 days


02-14-2016 02:06 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I just finished a small project, a box. and I am trying danish oil for the first time. Am I doing this correctly? The instructions say to apply a liberal coat and let it soak in for 30 minuets. Then apply a second coat, wait 15 minuets and wipe off the excess. Urethane after 72 hours. Is this the best way? On my test pieces I really like the way it looks. Do different woods need different treatments? It’s all sanded to 320 grit.

-- We all make mistakes, the trick is to fix it in a way thats says "I meant to do that".


11 replies so far

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BurlyBob

3697 posts in 1733 days


#1 posted 02-14-2016 04:00 PM

I’ve used Danish oil on red oak, Watco medium walnut mostly. I’ve rarely seen the need for a 2nd coat. The 72 hour drying time does not sound unreasonable at all. I found with red oak it can take quite a while for the Danish oil to puddle back out and it requires wiping off the excess several times. If it does dry without being wiped I’ve gotten little dots of hardened Danish oil. I’ve resorted to getting a cloth with some Danish oil and scrubbing the dots away, rather annoying and time consuming cause you have to let it dry again.

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johnstoneb

2150 posts in 1641 days


#2 posted 02-14-2016 04:13 PM

You can do just about anything with danish oil. Danish oil is a mix of oil and varnish. If you don’t want the Urethane you don’t have put it on. Just depends how much additional protection you want. The hobby bench I just finished I put on 2 coats of Watco natural and after a few day waxed with bowling alley wax. Looks nice and will be easy to repair.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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jeffswildwood

1331 posts in 1445 days


#3 posted 02-14-2016 04:14 PM

Thanks Bob and Bruce. This is a new product for me. I am using the watco clear and it’s going on walnut, birds eye maple, ceder, cherry and poplar. (You should see the box)! I did one coat and it soaked it all in. Did a second coat and wiped it off after 15 min. Not soaking any more in so I guess it did it’s job. Maybe a second coat is not needed. I think I will wait the 72 hours before anything else and maby buff a bit in the mean time. Thanks!

-- We all make mistakes, the trick is to fix it in a way thats says "I meant to do that".

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Festus56

964 posts in 696 days


#4 posted 02-14-2016 04:57 PM

I usually rub a 50/50 mixture watco and mineral spirits with 0000 steel wool, 800 grit sandpaper and buff with a coarse rag on for the 3rd and 4th coats for a nice luster. Spend a little extra time on any end grain and it will look great.

-- Mark -- Really we're not crazy, just "Limited Editions" -- http://www.jmh-limited-editions.com/home.html --

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5183 posts in 2662 days


#5 posted 02-14-2016 05:01 PM

+2 for all of the above answers…..

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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jeffswildwood

1331 posts in 1445 days


#6 posted 02-14-2016 05:10 PM

Mark, that is really something to consider. May try this on some scrap first. Thanks! Is this a wet sand process?

-- We all make mistakes, the trick is to fix it in a way thats says "I meant to do that".

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BurlyBob

3697 posts in 1733 days


#7 posted 02-14-2016 05:39 PM

Jeff that wood combination sounds very interesting. I look forwa2d to seeing you post your project.

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jeffswildwood

1331 posts in 1445 days


#8 posted 02-14-2016 06:25 PM

It’s a shop fun/skill builder box but I am really happy with the way it came out! Should be posted in about 5-6 days. Really look forward to posting this one.

-- We all make mistakes, the trick is to fix it in a way thats says "I meant to do that".

View Mark Wilson's profile

Mark Wilson

1770 posts in 531 days


#9 posted 02-14-2016 09:00 PM

Jeff, I used to use Danish. When I noticed how it darkens wood, especially dark woods like Walnut, I switched to BLO. It doesn’t darken the wood any more the getting the wood wet darkens the wood. And, it’ll cure under a top coat. As soon as it’s dry to the touch, and is no longer weeping out, I’m on it with either Shellac or WOP. I understand Tung Oil is, like Danish, an oil/varnish concoction that doesn’t darken wood. It’s application is quicker than Danish, and can be built up to a high lustre. The go-to for many people, me included, until I ran out of it, was Maloof’s Oil-Oil/Wax system. It’s expensive, and, also, darkens dark woods. Looking forward to seeing the box.

-- Mark

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jeffswildwood

1331 posts in 1445 days


#10 posted 02-14-2016 10:04 PM

Thanks Mark, right now I am trying new ways to finish a project besides the old stain-polyurethane method. I tried tung oil (formbys) and liked it pretty well. Seemed a lot like a wipe on poly though. Danish oil does seem to darken but I kind of like the look. I do like the ease of application. On my test pieces I used a light coat of gloss poly and was impressed with the finish. I’ll keep your tips in mind as I can afford more choices I’ll give them a try. I can’t wait til the 72 hour wait is over so I can finish the finish. On that the BLO is sounding better.

-- We all make mistakes, the trick is to fix it in a way thats says "I meant to do that".

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KYSean

107 posts in 3064 days


#11 posted 02-14-2016 10:14 PM

I seem to always go to Mahoney’s walnut Oil. Dries completly so I can top coat if I choose.

-- http://editedwrite.com

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