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Gluing granite to wood

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Forum topic by richgreer posted 02-12-2010 10:53 PM 19943 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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richgreer

4524 posts in 1727 days


02-12-2010 10:53 PM

What is the best way to glue granite to wood? I’ll be gluing a 12” by 12” piece of granite to some plywood so I don’t think I need to be concerned about movement.

Epoxy, CA, Gorilla, some kind of construction adhesive ???

Thanks in advance for any help.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.


14 replies so far

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15696 posts in 2871 days


#1 posted 02-12-2010 11:01 PM

I would think epoxy would be best, or one of the thicker CA glues.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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JAGWAH

929 posts in 1737 days


#2 posted 02-12-2010 11:03 PM

Epoxy is best, I’ve tried bondo when that was all I had in the shop and it did ok.

-- ~Just A Guy With A Hammer~

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1768 days


#3 posted 02-12-2010 11:42 PM

araldit two component epoxy will do the job very well

but why do you want to glue granit to plywood
granit doesn´t have build in movement :-)

Dennis

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Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2740 days


#4 posted 02-12-2010 11:45 PM

www.thistothat.com

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View childress's profile

childress

841 posts in 2195 days


#5 posted 02-13-2010 12:19 AM

I would use liquid nails or some sort of construction adhesive. This is what most granite fabricators use in my area.

-- Childress Woodworks

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Chris Wright

529 posts in 2134 days


#6 posted 02-13-2010 12:33 AM

I’d say either a slow set epoxy or Liquid Nails. Not sure about what prep work you’ll need to do to the granite first though.

-- "At its best, life is completely unpredictable." - Christopher Walken

View sphere's profile

sphere

109 posts in 1684 days


#7 posted 02-13-2010 12:50 AM

PL Premium polyurethane adhesive is some seriously good stuff. The Caulk tube type doesn’t do the nasty foaming trick. The liquid type will, but not nearly as bad as Gorilla Glue. I’ve gotten away from G Glue because the short shelf life and huge mess was just too much hassel.

-- Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Wood Works

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richgreer

4524 posts in 1727 days


#8 posted 02-13-2010 12:54 AM

Thank you for all the good advice.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View KnotWright's profile

KnotWright

247 posts in 2141 days


#9 posted 02-13-2010 01:00 AM

The least expensive way would be good ole silicon, they have used it for years, when setting granite counter tops.

Will you be just setting this freely on top of the wood? Or will there be a frame around the granite?

I built a buffet that has 3 individual pieces of granite in its top, the folks at the granite shop cut and fit them and then used 5 dabs of silicon to keep the pieces from falling out if the piece was ever turned on it side during moving.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/11224

-- James

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a1Jim

112083 posts in 2230 days


#10 posted 02-13-2010 02:16 AM

I’d use silicone

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Tony_S's profile

Tony_S

427 posts in 1736 days


#11 posted 02-13-2010 02:59 AM

As Sphere said, PL Premium is the best option IMO. Ive used Epoxy (West System). It works great but messy and expensive. Silicone works great as well, but if bond strength will be an issue it’s not the greatest choice. PL Premium is cheap(er) simple, and super strong.

-- "The trouble with people idiot-proofing things, is the resulting evolution of the idiot."

View Alexander's profile

Alexander

190 posts in 1764 days


#12 posted 02-13-2010 10:01 AM

I installed granite in my new home for kitchen counter tops.

If the granite is installed on a floor were it will be walked on then 1/4” cement board should be placed on a solid sub floor.

If the garnite ( marble or tile) is installed on a counter top the cement board in not needed. The counter top should be plywood not saw dust board.

I used thin set to install all my counters and floor applications ( 9 different places). The thin set is installed with a trowel using groves as per the instructions on the bag. The granite or marble will be pressed down into the thin set to make it level. The trowel groves give space for the thin set to move. To much thin set will come up through the joints and require cleaning out ( a lot of work)

It is a little hard to get the granite or marble level with the next one and one trick is to place the spacers below the edge of the granite or marble and then place a piece of 3/4 plywood on the granite or marble. Then take a rubber hammer and tap around the plywood with the idea of tapping the pylwood as a means of leveling all of the pieces at the same time. I did not do that and I found as I was adjusting one meeting of 4 corners I was lifting the other ends of the granite or marble. Use of a level or other true edgetool will help to get them level. A counter or table top is not as bad as a entry that will be walked on as if a edge of marble is to high it could trip someone.

Hope this helps.

-- John at Sugarloft Mountain........Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.

View UnionLabel's profile

UnionLabel

660 posts in 1853 days


#13 posted 02-13-2010 07:17 PM

Any stone mason will tell you that you need to use 100% clear Silicone. The reason being is that silicone is totally non-reactive to the stone. Also, most other adhesives are reactive to mineral contents and can eventually bleed through. Another trick you can do is put a tooth to the bottom of the stone with a 40 grit wheel. Just be sure to wipe the stone down with a damp cloth to remove the dust.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View woodmight's profile

woodmight

113 posts in 1709 days


#14 posted 02-14-2010 08:31 AM

I am not sure where this application was going to be…. But for my two cents worth… I will have to agree with Sphere… PL Premium….. once that has cured it will never let go….. But again if it indoors then silicone if you ever have to remove it from the plywood.

-- ~~ Remember You can't saw... What you can't see ~~

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