Actually both are right. Start with the flycutter to define the circumference. Then use the router to clear the center. The circumference cut makes it easy to freehand the center because you don't have to be precise following the line.
Thanks guys. I just bought a adjustable fly cutter at HD with two blades. I am thinking of using it to cut a template in which I can use my router guide to clean out the whole thing. I just need to figure out how much bigger the templet needs to be to allow for the guide thickness and router bit clearance.
Uh oh…..I just went back and re-read the thread, and my post….I forgot to include using a guide bushing…..or inlay bushing….A template would make it so much easier if you had several, or a big run to do….I need to slow down…..!!!
Honestly, never seen, owned or found a fly cutter that I liked or was comfortable with.
Hard to make absolutely sure that both cutters are exactly the same penetration distance.
As Candy correctly said, they can
"fly" apart and the cutters can come loose when they hit a harder bit of the wood.
When they dull, they cut poorly.
Make sure your wood is securely tagged down, and you drill table locked tight. Lots of torque.
Not a fan…
I like the router idea much better, possibly just hand cutting in the final edges with small, very sharp chisels. That is how I inlay my guitar pickguards into my bodies. Of course, they are not round.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
LumberJocks Woodworking Forum
2.5M posts
96K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about shop safety, wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, woodworking related topics, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!