Table saw binding on shallow cuts

Could be too many teeth in the cut. Divide the saws horsepower by the number of teeth and you’ll see how quickly that power goes away.

Or I could be wrong.

A thin kerf blade will give any saw more power. The difference is quite dramatic. I use thin kerf bades on all my saws (table saw, radial arm, bandsaw, etc.). Also, like Mark said, less teeth are necassary especially for ripping. You can get a very smooth cut with a ripping blade and it will be more efficient.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.blakeweber.us

Hmm. I am not really diagnosing the problem . But usually blades cut more efficiently when raised higher. The blade comes down at the piece at a very different angle. Not as safe obviously.

Have you tried it with the mitre sled and no fence? Eliminate more variables.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

If your blade will not bind in deep cuts, then what would make it bind in shallow cuts? I don’t think it’s a blade issue. I think that when you put it all back together, something “fell” into the saw near the pulley, or blade is rubbing against it. Look under the pulley/blade. Make sure it spins freely at the lowest setting.

Another thing, blade depth is adjusted so that the teeth and gulleys should just protrude from the board surface. You shouldn’t see a blade set 2” high to cut a 1/2” board. Know-whut-I-mean?

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

Alen, I had this problem with my circular saw. When I inspected teh blade I found a couple of teeth had lost their carbide tips. That may be teh problem with yours. You can also try a new blade. I use the Ridgid 50-tooth blade on my Ridgid TS-2400, the cousin to your saw, and it powers through anything I ask. At only $40 you cannot go wrong with that blade. It made editor’s choice in Woodsmith magazine earlier this year.

As far as safety, if you think about it, having the blade stick up higher than the wood means that the blade is clearing the wood and cutting DOWN instead of back, towards YOU! This will push the wood down, against the table’s top, instead of back towards you. This is what makes a bandsw so safe! And, if you use the blade guard you are protected from the spinning blade. After my accident this summer I have looked hard into safety with my table saw.

God Bless,
Hawg

-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards

....is your blade on backwards. Sorry…had to ask.

:P

-Rocko

-- -> Malta, IL -<

I had a hunch we were discussing this already, and I know I commented, but when I see your blog here I cannot find my comments…major confusing moment! So go check this blog out!

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1479#reply-16080

Hopefully it’ll also help!

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

You may have a belt that is showing it’s age, or there may be some debris getting caught or lodged beneath the motor so that when the blade is in it’s lowered position, you are loosing belt tension. I only bring this up because it has happened to me. My fix was to remove some links from the belt to eliminate the concern for good.

Ed

-- Come on in, the beer is cold and the wood is dry. www.crookedlittletree.com