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Pergola Help?

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Forum topic by Knot_Head posted 1665 days ago 1861 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1672 days


1665 days ago

Here is the top of what I wanting to do, I am just drawing a blank on how to attach the top 2×6 to the bottom joist underneath. Of course this will be outside and I am a stickler for details on how everything will look. I guess I could toenail 2 ss screws into the sides of the 2×6, but that has me worried about how long it will hold and resist twisting etc.. What would you do and what would look the best?


21 replies so far

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JAGWAH

929 posts in 1721 days


#1 posted 1665 days ago

Strongtie has several hold down clips that could work. To minimize there appearance I’d install on the back side of the outside beam first before installing the inside beam. I’ve done similar and if I find the photo I’ll post it.
Just pan down this sites page and you’ll see several styles.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/H.asp

-- ~Just A Guy With A Hammer~

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1672 days


#2 posted 1665 days ago

I have seen those but the appearance of 30+ something throughout this project has me….....

Can you powdercoat them?

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a1Jim

112028 posts in 2214 days


#3 posted 1665 days ago

Well knot Head
There is another type clip that come in left and right hand types there smaller than the first one on the page that Bob sent a link to and in my area they meet code in my area. They are down the page a little there h 2.5 and h2.5a in Bobs link.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1672 days


#4 posted 1665 days ago

I have worked with those before and they still are not the most pleasant to look at.

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miles125

2179 posts in 2642 days


#5 posted 1665 days ago

Any visible hardware straps will take away from the look of the pergola imo. Making it look more like the underside of your deck! I’d stick with notching the 2×6’s at joint locations then toe screw, or just 2 toe screws.

-- "The way to make a small fortune in woodworking- start with a large one"

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a1Jim

112028 posts in 2214 days


#6 posted 1665 days ago

Some folks just toe nail a deck screw on each side. But if you have codes in your area you better check because the h2.5s meet code and screws don’t in my area. The reason they want hurricane clips is because strong winds can lift the end of your roof knocking the whole thing down.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1672 days


#7 posted 1665 days ago

Yeah miles125, that is what I am thinking. a1Jim, I am aware of the building codes and from talking to a couple of the inspectors, they are not required where I live. Thanks for the info, though!

You don’t see many pergolas with 2×6’s as slats on the top, but we like the look a lot.

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1672 days


#8 posted 1665 days ago

I guess, I could get the drill press out and drill a hole so that I can drive a screw down from the top into the joist.

http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/RSS_0_LTF_information.htm

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a1Jim

112028 posts in 2214 days


#9 posted 1665 days ago

Have fun enjoy the build

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1672 days


#10 posted 1665 days ago

After looking at the screws a little more, no need for a pre drilled hole.

Jim, I think I came off a little wrong, I want to thank you for all the help. I am a little picky with things and I apologize if I came off wrong.

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sphere

109 posts in 1668 days


#11 posted 1665 days ago

You can get log home type screws up to 10” long, called “Timber Tech” IIRC from McFeely’s. A 5/16” nut driver in an impact driver and away ya go, some woods don’t require a pilot hole even. To be safe, I’d probably run a long 3/16” bell hanger type bit at least part way thru for a guide pilot.

The screws are either blk. epoxy coated or SS….SS is REALLY pricey tho’.

-- Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Wood Works

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1672 days


#12 posted 1665 days ago

I have got a question, if I went with the epoxy coated ones and screwed them from the top and silicone over’ed the hole, would I still get the staining of the wood from the screw with cedar?

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sphere

109 posts in 1668 days


#13 posted 1665 days ago

Eventually I think it would, but how long? Maybe 10 yrs? Maybe not at all. I’ve used them in Cypress, not as acidic as WRC.

-- Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Wood Works

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1672 days


#14 posted 1665 days ago

That’s what I was thinking. Thanks.

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1672 days


#15 posted 1665 days ago

Now, I am hearing that Timberlok set of screws will not stain cedar and have a warranty and they come in the lengths I need so that is an option as well.

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