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Eliminating side to side movement in miter gauge.

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Forum topic by 716 posted 02-07-2016 09:02 PM 1029 views 0 times favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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716

502 posts in 376 days


02-07-2016 09:02 PM

I know most of you would say “Just buy Incra”.
The stock table saw miter gauges are actually quite good for the most basic stuff like cutting at 90 or 45 especially if you attach a small fence to the back. However there is one thing that kills it. The side to side movement is around 1mm making it useless. You set your piece for a cut at certain size, than the miter gauge moves and you have hopefully undercut it, so you still can fix it, If you overcut, then it goes into scrap.

I have no idea why manufacturers even bother including a miter gauge if they are not willing to take measure against the side to side movements. Is it something that some folks managed to take care of themselves ?

-- It's nice!


27 replies so far

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joey502

487 posts in 978 days


#1 posted 02-07-2016 09:15 PM

Does the miter gauge not have set screws in the bar to adjust the miter slot fit? My stock miter gauge has the set screws, but I did buy an aftermarket that is much better.

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joey502

487 posts in 978 days


#2 posted 02-07-2016 09:16 PM

Or, buy an Incra.

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bandit571

14536 posts in 2143 days


#3 posted 02-07-2016 09:26 PM

Heard about using a center punch, make a few dimples on one side of the bar.

Also depends on the style of the bar, too. Does it have the tab out on the end that runs in grooves? Or, just a plain steel bar?

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5764 posts in 946 days


#4 posted 02-07-2016 09:39 PM

Drill and tap. Brass screws

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2322 posts in 1757 days


#5 posted 02-07-2016 09:47 PM

Could put a strip or two of electrical tape on one side.

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MadMark

976 posts in 913 days


#6 posted 02-07-2016 10:12 PM

None of it is Craftsman is it? Their ts miter slots are .010” under – .740” vs .750” on a ‘real’ saw … if you use a Sears miter gauge on a real saw it’ll be sloppy as hell.

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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Redoak49

1937 posts in 1448 days


#7 posted 02-07-2016 11:41 PM

Drill and tap on side in a couple of places and pot in nylon screw/bolt.

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716

502 posts in 376 days


#8 posted 02-08-2016 12:07 AM

This seems so easy and inexpensive to implement, Should be there by default even on the cheapest saws.

-- It's nice!

View hotbyte's profile

hotbyte

841 posts in 2435 days


#9 posted 02-08-2016 12:19 AM

My Delta 36-725 has set screws in miter gauge bar to adjust slop.

Another tip I’ve read is to run aluminum HVAC tape down edge of bar.

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woodbutcherbynight

2414 posts in 1869 days


#10 posted 02-08-2016 02:38 AM

Like many others I used the factory miter gauge and as suggested I did drill and tap mine and put adjustment screws in it. Recently I made a cross cut sled seems to me to be much more accurate. My .02 cents worth anyway.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

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Nubsnstubs

826 posts in 1190 days


#11 posted 02-08-2016 03:46 AM

Take the miter guide, lay it flat on your saw top, and hit each end with a ball peen hammer. Try to put it back into the slot. If it doesn’t go, file off a little of the mushroom until it goes into the slot. When you get to the other end, do the same if it’s shroomed. If it didn’t mushroom enough, hit it again, or until it won’t go into the slot. Do the file thing until it fits snug, but not tight…... better than getting an incra. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

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bigblockyeti

3665 posts in 1181 days


#12 posted 02-08-2016 03:50 AM

I welded a few spots on the side on one of my sloppier gauges after taking it apart and put it on a surface grinder to get the width about 0.0013” less than the slot on my table.

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a1Jim

115201 posts in 3037 days


#13 posted 02-08-2016 04:15 AM

a strip of metal duct tape usually works great.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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splintergroup

815 posts in 682 days


#14 posted 02-08-2016 03:10 PM

Jerry (Nubsnstubs) and big block have good solutions if you have the equipment or the adjustment is minor.

I have an Incra and basically the miter bar sucks. The problem is my table saw (Unisaw) has the typical oversized Delta miter slot and aftermarket manufactures like to make there stuff fit the lowest common denominator, in my case the Incra fits the undersized slots in an old Craftsman saw perfectly.

The Incra uses expanding nylon disks to adjust. This is fine, but my disks regularly wear down and the slop returns. The disks also are spaced far apart so there are areas in the miter bar travel that don’t get proper side to side support.

My first solution was to drill a number of holes across the width of the bar, thread them, then install (with lock tight) some set screws. This allowed a perfect width adjustment. I was a bit worried about the set screw heads eventually gouging into the miter slot sides so I swapped in some of the ball bearing tipped screws. These have a small spring inside that allows the bearing to retract when under force, basically allowing the miter bar to be ‘spring loaded’ to one side of the slot with bearings acting as one of the sliding surfaces.

Eventually I plan on just milling down a piece of bar stock and replacing the Incra bar (the Incra head is fantastic).

My factory Delta miter has the usual near-useless head, but the bar fits the slot perfectly (hummmm…...)

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xeddog

113 posts in 2467 days


#15 posted 02-08-2016 07:29 PM

Several good ways, but what about some Teflon tape down one side?

Wayne

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