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Cutting Timbers with Sawzall

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Forum topic by Knot_Head posted 02-09-2010 02:59 AM 1638 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1725 days


02-09-2010 02:59 AM

Here is the plan, take a 8” x 8” timber and make this detail cut into the end of it. I plan on making a template, marking the timber and then rough cutting it with a sawzall and then how would you finish it up? The other plan is to use my bandsaw and build a mobile platform for it and position the log so that it can’t move and simply move the saw to make the cut. I think this way will save me a lot of time with cleanup after the cut instead of doing it the first way. Which way would you do it and why?


19 replies so far

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sphere

109 posts in 1721 days


#1 posted 02-09-2010 03:04 AM

Depends, roughing and clean up with a long top bearing router bit is one way on some timbers.

I don’t favor the rolling bandsaw, due to floor level issues.

A good old fashioned bow saw was the trad. way. Possible to hog away with a chainsaw or sawzall and chisel or slick to the lines, gouges help as well..depending on the radii of the profile.

-- Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Wood Works

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1725 days


#2 posted 02-09-2010 03:15 AM

That’s what I was thinking. I checked my floor today and it is fairly level, but if I was to go that way, I would build a pad where I know it is level and could rest the saw and base on and move around knowing that I am 100% level. I am just a stickler for details.

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Craftsman on the lake

2396 posts in 2128 days


#3 posted 02-09-2010 03:16 AM

I’ve cut almost this same profile before but on 4×8” timber on a pergola. I tried the sawsall but the blade tends to no be perpendicular to the cut.. it bends and the cut comes off at an angle. I eventually used a skill saw to cut the bulk corner off as a triangle. then put it on edge and cut a series of cuts down to the curve then knocked out the chips with a chisel. If you’ve ever used a table saw to cut sections out making a series of kerf cuts to the curve then knocked out the kerf chips you know what I mean without drawing a picture as I’m not sure if I explained it well.
Your piece is 8” though. that’s a lot of wood to take out and for blades to reach. Let us know what you decide and what worked.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1725 days


#4 posted 02-09-2010 03:20 AM

I see what your saying and that might work, but man what a lot of work and I have 12 of these to do. I will keep you updated.

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Craftsman on the lake

2396 posts in 2128 days


#5 posted 02-09-2010 03:26 AM

I see what you mean. Mine were done in groups.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

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Craftsman on the lake

2396 posts in 2128 days


#6 posted 02-09-2010 03:26 AM

Maybe I should explain.
Clamp or nail maybe 4 of them together after the initial triangle is cut off, adjust the depth of the saw for one pass and go right across all four of them. then repeat at the other depths. If you do lots of cuts the kerfs will be very small and probably just knock out easily. I did a bunch of them too and no matter what method, it will be the most tedious part of the build. Once it’s over though then you can just race along.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

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a1Jim

112335 posts in 2267 days


#7 posted 02-09-2010 03:29 AM

I’ve used a router with a pattern cutting bit about 4” long going from both .sides and of course a pattern.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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patron

13103 posts in 2031 days


#8 posted 02-09-2010 03:44 AM

your band saw idea is good ,
i would just mount it to a ply base ,
and have another ply on the floor ,
and do a pivot center point let the saw just ark around .
if you do wheels , you got to get them all rolling
in the ark and cant change directions easily .
just put a nail for your radius .
and a holder for the beam .
try it on a plywood the same width as the beam .
to adjust the beam

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1725 days


#9 posted 02-09-2010 03:56 AM

a1Jim: Where can I find this bit, that would work perfectly if I can find one. Save me a lot of time as well.

Patron: I am not following you. Can you show me an example?

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patron

13103 posts in 2031 days


#10 posted 02-09-2010 04:07 AM

basicaly make a lazy susan .
2 plys with a pivot .
attach saw with blade perp. to radius line with blade radius over from pivot .
it will spin in a circle .
mount your beam ( fixed , on outboard stand ) in appropriate position and cut .
i could draw a picture , copy , download to photobucket , and post it
if this is not clear enough .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1725 days


#11 posted 02-09-2010 04:09 AM

I gotcha, I wasn’t thinking clearly at the time.

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TopamaxSurvivor

14874 posts in 2366 days


#12 posted 02-09-2010 04:13 AM

I agree with COTL, the sawaall is going to be trouble.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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a1Jim

112335 posts in 2267 days


#13 posted 02-09-2010 05:09 AM

I’ve been looking and can’t find were I bought that router bit.
except this one . When doing this you have to take small increments.
I’ve seen norm use the band saw method too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-3-8-Dia-3-Extra-Long-Trim-Router-Bit_W0QQitemZ130362690468QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRouters_Bits?hash=item1e5a38cba4

Taking a second look my bearing is on the bottom of the cutter to follow the pattern.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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GFYS

711 posts in 2161 days


#14 posted 02-09-2010 05:25 AM

prazi beam cutter

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1725 days


#15 posted 02-09-2010 05:28 AM

Chain tearout is a big no in my book so the Prazi is out of the question. Unless people have had some good success with using a zero clearance plate etc..

If I use a pattern cutting bit, I will rough cut it with a skillsaw and then hack away the radius cuts and then use the bit to smooth everything up.

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