Table saw arbor flange runout

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Forum topic by JonW posted 02-08-2010 05:56 AM 5966 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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8 posts in 3321 days

02-08-2010 05:56 AM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw arbor runout tablesaw

I have a Ridgid TS2424; there is no measurable shaft runout, but the flange that the blade rests against (one piece with the shaft), has 4-5 thousandths runout which results in ten thousandths runout at the edge of a new 10” Freud blade. To fix it, I could buy a new arbor assembly at around $110, or remove the assembly and take it to a machine shop; but shouldn’t it be possible to rest a file or stone against the flange (in the table) to clean it up? Shouldn’t it just hit the high spots, and level it as would a machinist’s lathe? One other thought is to put some sort of soft washer between the flange and the blade, so that it self-aligns against the outer washer instead of the inner flange. Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome.

5 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


117342 posts in 3782 days

#1 posted 02-08-2010 06:34 AM

Your could try putting some of the the self adhesive metal type duct tape the kind made form thin metal on the low side of the flange and see if that evens it out.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View JonW's profile


8 posts in 3321 days

#2 posted 02-11-2010 06:56 PM

Thanks Jim! Sometimes the simplest fix is the best. On re-checking, I found I’d not been quite touching the shaft when I thought it had no runout. Both shaft and flange have runout, which I re-measured at about .015 at the blade edge – quite visible when it is rotated slowly.

Trying your suggestion, I found that it took only a very very thin “shim” to be effective; after a lot of trial and error, I ended up with two thicknesses of tissue paper to bring the runout down to .003” which is satisfactory to me.


View jerryz's profile


164 posts in 3484 days

#3 posted 02-11-2010 07:28 PM

There was a post not long ago that mentioned this same issue, the solution for the flange runout was to place the arbor at 45 Deg and lift it so that by attaching a stone to piece of wood perpendicular to the flange and turning on the TS you would carefully remove the high spot on the flange.

As for the arbor runout make sure you measure it right at the spot were the blade is tightened with the nut.

You should be able to fix those issues permanently I would hate having to shim and reshim evey time I replace the blade.

Found that article: and also the link that was provided courtesy of a1Jim

Be safe

View Milo's profile


869 posts in 3524 days

#4 posted 02-11-2010 07:35 PM


Call Ridgid and see if that TS isn’t on recall for that very problem. Ridgid replaced my arbor for free last year beause of a prblem with the threading on the arbor. Perhaps yours is cover too.


-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3273 days

#5 posted 02-11-2010 11:12 PM

Jon -
IMO, a “soft washer” would be the worst possible fix for this problem. Blades want to follow the path of least resistance while cutting and I can visualize cutting into a knot (or really tightly grained wood) and having the blade deflect even more than usual because of a “soft washer”.

Shimming might work, but I wouldn’t want to re-shim for each blade change and I doubt if I would be very comfortable using a shim with a stacked dado cutter. And, you probably couldn’t pay me enough to use a shim with a wobble dado cutter. – lol

I would check with Ridgid about this. There may be a recall, or they may have a better solution. Quite honestly, I would spend the $110 before I tried some home made fix.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

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