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Forum topic by LittleLyle posted 02-05-2016 01:35 AM 1257 views 0 times favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4 posts in 807 days

02-05-2016 01:35 AM

Topic tags/keywords: unisaw table saw delta united tablesaw


I recently acquired a United NBR-455 10” tilting arbor saw. People have told me it is a Japanese knockoff of the old delta unisaw, and in fact it does look very similar. I need a tabletop for it, can you guys tell me whether or not a delta unisaw table top will fit on this saw? The bolt holes are ~ 19.5” apart in the short dimension and 21” apart for the long dimension. Anyone have a delta unisaw tabletop


Sent on the go.

28 replies so far

View TheWoodRaccoon's profile


364 posts in 894 days

#1 posted 02-05-2016 02:12 AM

Are you saying that the entire cast iron top is gone? If yhat’s the case, i don’t think you should have bought the saw…

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

View LittleLyle's profile


4 posts in 807 days

#2 posted 02-05-2016 02:21 AM

Yeah it’s gone. Was more of a gift, i just paid for transport to my shop. Nah man there has got to be a way to figure this out! It’s a great saw still just needs a surface.

View Richard's profile


1916 posts in 2655 days

#3 posted 02-05-2016 02:30 AM

Photos might help someone more than the measurements or along with them.

View ThomasChippendale's profile


244 posts in 897 days

#4 posted 02-05-2016 02:39 AM

Just measured my Unisaw and its close but not close enough to fit your measurements.

-- PJ

View 716's profile


502 posts in 881 days

#5 posted 02-05-2016 02:43 AM

Just make one from melamine.

-- It's nice!

View TarHeelz's profile


59 posts in 2046 days

#6 posted 02-05-2016 02:48 AM

One has to wonder what great story explains a table saw losing its cast iron top. Not a part typically lost or to otherwise go missing.

-- Tar Heelz, Durham, NC USA

View bigblockyeti's profile


5092 posts in 1685 days

#7 posted 02-05-2016 03:02 AM

I too would like to hear how one looses the table from a table saw. Kinda reminds me of seeing various car parts on the side of the road, mufflers I totally get especially up here in the rust belt, hubcaps with the non-existent road maintenance, that too make sense. Brake drums just befuddle me, the real question is brake discs where on over 99% of vehicles the caliper would first have to be removed to get the disc off. How in the heck does that happen?

View jumbojack's profile


1674 posts in 2589 days

#8 posted 02-05-2016 03:32 AM

My son’s girlfriend drove her van to my place because of ‘break’ noise. I pulled the wheel and caliper. Inboard pad was GONE. Outboard pad was nearly worn through. Rotor was worn enough to see the back side if the cooling fins. The only thing stopping the right front was the actual caliper contacting the rotor. Needless to say they BOTH got an Ass chewing. Replaced both rotors both calipers.
That is how you find weird parts on the highway.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View jumbojack's profile


1674 posts in 2589 days

#9 posted 02-05-2016 03:38 AM

Oh and about your table saw:

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View LittleLyle's profile


4 posts in 807 days

#10 posted 02-05-2016 04:45 AM

View TheFridge's profile


9249 posts in 1451 days

#11 posted 02-05-2016 04:51 AM

It might take some work but I don’t see why not.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View FancyShoes's profile


550 posts in 1329 days

#12 posted 02-05-2016 04:57 AM

That is a delta knock off for sure! Im sure they took the actual dimensions from the unisaw. However, most the time when you measure between 2 holes, you measure from center of the holes.

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


6587 posts in 2164 days

#13 posted 02-05-2016 05:14 AM

Rough measurement of the two front holes comes up with approx 18.25” center to center. Your saw is different than the Uni in that it has tabs to mount the table, while the Uni has a solid flange around the top:

If yours had the solid flange, it would make it easier as you could re-drill the holes as needed… but with the tabs, you might get it to work, but I doubt it will be as simple as just bolting it on.


PS: It may be considered a Japanese knockoff of the Unisaw by some, but it’s not at all the same. There are more significant differences than just how the table mounts to the cabinet; such as the way the trunnions mount, their brackets, the yoke, etc…

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View splatman's profile


586 posts in 1364 days

#14 posted 02-05-2016 06:55 AM

If that tableless TS were in my possession, I would make a table for it out of quartz coutertop material. (Offcuts and sink/range cutouts are free from most countertop shops) Probably the next best thing to cast iron.
I would not use granite; most granites are too brittle.
Web-search how to work quartz coutertop material, if you are interested.
Maybe start with a temporary plywood top, if for no other reason than to check that it can function like a TS, before investing any $$ or effort into sourcing or making a top.

View SirIrb's profile


1239 posts in 1195 days

#15 posted 02-05-2016 11:37 AM

“Hey dad, I took your table saw for a spin and when I got home I noticed the top was gone. Just gone. I dont know where it is.”

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

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