Woodshop Door Solution

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Forum topic by edwood1975 posted 02-02-2016 01:55 PM 507 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View edwood1975's profile


482 posts in 766 days

02-02-2016 01:55 PM

Hi Fello LJ’s

I’m hoping someone can help with a problem I have.. My wife told me to put a door on the entrance into my woodshop..

Let me you the lay of the land I have a basement workshop and then basement is split into 2 main areas 1. The original basement before an addition was added this is used for general storage of seasonal items
2. A newer part of the basement under an addition this is my space

Area 1 is getting pretty soiled with sawdust from the workshop and she wants the entrance blocked ..

My problem is that the doorway is not a traditional doorway and its domensiond are 42” wide by 72 ” high…

As you ca see from the pictures above there is a lot of copper and wavin pipeing coming through the doorway..

I tried thinking about several options but hit roadblocks while trying to plan it out the optional I have thought about are
1. Adding a doorframe but the pipes are in the way and I can’t find a door or even double doors with my domensions
2. Sliding door except I have no where for the door to slide into and the door way has a 6” recess
3. Some kind of fabric partition but I have no way of securing the hanging pole to the the top of the entry way because of all the piping

Help please.. Happy wife = happy life

-- Ed

9 replies so far

View conifur's profile


955 posts in 575 days

#1 posted 02-02-2016 02:20 PM

Can you use a shower curtain rod and hang a curtain from it? Friction fit between the block and just below the PVC pipe on the right.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View edwood1975's profile


482 posts in 766 days

#2 posted 02-02-2016 02:30 PM

Can you use a shower curtain rod and hang a curtain from it? Friction fit between the block and just below the PVC pipe on the right.

- conifur

That might work .. Thanks

-- Ed

View jbay's profile


707 posts in 322 days

#3 posted 02-02-2016 02:31 PM

Frame around the pipes and fill in the right side as much as you need to fit a standard size door. Use expanding foam to fill in the gaps left around the pipes.

-- Many times my “MO” involves Judging others, playing God, acting as LJs law enforcement, and never admitting any of my ideas could possibly wrong or anyone else's idea could possibly be correct.--

View hotbyte's profile


826 posts in 2399 days

#4 posted 02-02-2016 02:38 PM

I like jbay idea but make the filler on the right easily removable in case you need to move in a large project or tool. The extra width would be nice.

Or, best idea, expand workshop into Area 1 and move out the season items and other stuff :)

View WoodNSawdust's profile


1417 posts in 600 days

#5 posted 02-02-2016 02:44 PM

Frame the largest opening you can and hang a plywood door with weather stripping and a latch. Use spray foam (best) or fiberglass insulation to plug around the pipes. You want to keep the opening as large as possible so you can easily get tools and large projects in and out.

You could also work out a negative pressure environment so that when you open the door air flows into the shop.

Add dust collection to eliminate the problem at the source. Also look at air born dust problems with an air filter. Grizzly has a good one on sale.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View dhazelton's profile


2292 posts in 1720 days

#6 posted 02-02-2016 02:48 PM

Can you knock down the row of block on the left next to the poured wall? That gives you more to frame in for as wide a door as you can make.

View clin's profile


486 posts in 419 days

#7 posted 02-02-2016 05:56 PM

There’s not a law that says a door has to be a a perfect rectangle.

You can put in a door with hinges on the block side. Run the door the full width and notch out for the large pipe in the corner. No reason you couldn’t frame the door jamb around the pipe.

I know it seems a bit goofy, but either the door is going to be shorter or narrower if you don’t.

As for door sizes, you can get doors made any size you want. Where I live a custom sized slab door is about $10 more than a standard size. Of course a door supplier isn’t going to make the notch for the pipe. But that’s what saws are for. I’d get a solid core door just so you don’t punch holes in it when swing boards around in the shop. So notching it shouldn’t be an issue. And even with a hollow door, you can work some wood into the area where the notch is.

If you go pre-hung, you’d have to rough in an opening with 2×4’s first to then have an rough opening size to give to the door supplier.

If you are willing to hang the door yourself, you could get away with attaching the jamb directed to the block wall. That would save you several inches in width. But it can get tricky hanging a door when you can’t shim the jamb to square the jamb to the door. But it’s doable.

As mentioned a plastic sheet could work. though I’d think more along the lines of the heavy duty strips you see in warehouses that you can just walk through.

-- Clin

View eflanders's profile


84 posts in 1273 days

#8 posted 02-02-2016 06:51 PM

I agree with both clin, Jay and the dust collection suggestions. You’re a woodworker, make a frame and a custom door!

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile


13574 posts in 2041 days

#9 posted 02-02-2016 07:02 PM

+2 to clin’s post.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

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