What is good for plugging holes in Acrlyic plating?

Try auto body filler. Bondo brand has worked for me in the past. Not sure what brands would be available in Norway though.

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

Either Bondo or pourable finish

-- https://www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos wood crafting & woodworking classes

you want something that wont be to rigid..with the vibration those might not stick..but im not sure,,,i wonder if you put some tape on the back side of the holes and use some silicone caulk..it would be a little pliable and you can clean it up good on the surface…just an idea…grizzman

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

Right on Dave and thanks much for your help. Yes I want to prevent dust from falling through. I like the epoxy idea with ca glue. Dave from Lansing, thank you for the helpful suggestion, but I am going with epoxy because being more or less clear it won’t stand out too much.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

Knowing myself as well as I do Grizz I would have it smeared all over the place. It is a good suggestion though. But I like the hardness of the epoxy since I will be sliding boards over all the time. It probably would work ok, but if not, it’s too hard to clean up. Thanks for trying to help me!

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

as with the others suggestion… cut an acrlyic plug or use round stock, drill a hole to the proper size in your plate and use an acrlyic glue. Using the proper glue will make your plastic as strong as new.

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

mike ,

as dave suggested ,
countersink both sides ,
and do the epoxy as he said ,
and you will have a rivet head
on both sides .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

Boy I hope you guys won’t be mad at me after being so helpful. I forgot I had some more acrylic pieces the same thickness, so I am doing what Dave and kindlingmaker originally suggested which was to use acrylic plugs. I thought the epoxy from both sides was a clever solution too. Thanks to all you for coming to the rescue.

I got my new router mounted yesterday and it is a huge improvement over what I had before. I will probably do a review in 6 months or so after getting enough experience with it. I wouldn’t bother if it was a well know brand because there are a million reviews out there already, but some might find Trend interesting since it’s definitely not made in China, it’s made in England and is known for it’s high quality over here.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

i won’t be mad ,
if i can work with particle board again ?

just for some demo stuff ,
and shelves .
glad you got a new tool ,
i’m sure this one is way better than your last one .

i use my bozo routers for things like round overs , or flush trim ,
things i need occasionaly , so i don’t have to reset the bits all the time .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

I don’t do enough work to keep even one router busy, unlike you pros who seem to have bushel baskets filled with them. I have 5 myself now, but only the one really good one. I would like to run it through it’s paces today, but first I have to shovel 10 ten tons of snow out of the driveway and then go food shopping with the wife. Life is like that for me. All the goodies are there, but just out of reach. Am I the only one? lol

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

all the goodies around here ,
are all on the top shelf .

and i’m getting shorter as we speak !

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

If it is acrylic (plexiglass), you can buy acrylic rods to fill the holes. They can be glued with a product called “Weld-on #4”.
If it is polycarbonate (lexan) you need Weld-on #55. Thats the only product that I know of that sticks to lexan.
But then again, why bother filling the holes at all? The extra holes won’t hurt anything.

If you don’t have a local supplier, try a commercial sign shop. They should have everything you need including advise.

Thanks Kimball, good advice, but I can cut the plugs out of my flat stuff with my scroll saw and some remedial sanding. Now I just have to find the right glue. The sign shop was a great suggestion. I bought my plexiglass from one, but it’s a 1 hour round trip so Im looking locally first. I know I don’t have to plug all those holes, but even with the present mount there are 7 holes; 3 for the quick release mounts, 3 for more permanent mounting screws which I had to use to mound the quick release bolts plus one for the table top height adjuster and the last four which were for the old router. Right now it could do double duty as a spaghetti drainer. I will probably just use clear packing tape the seal the 3extra ones that fit the new router and plug the 4 old ones to prevent sawdust falling into the router bottom.

If I could get the parts I’ll bet I could build an airplane with the friendly help from fellow LJs!

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

I do indeed have a set of plug cutters Dave and your comment jogged my memory that I had bought a set of different sized plug cutters. I was thinking about using the scroll saw because I was thinking my one plug cutter would be too small for the holes because they were enlarged by the countersinks. So thank you for reminding me. I really appreciate it. This will make the job a lot faster and better. I will cut those plugs with a very slow speed.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.