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Motor to upgrade bandsaw.

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Forum topic by dbhost posted 02-02-2010 05:08 PM 4739 views 1 time favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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dbhost

5604 posts in 2693 days


02-02-2010 05:08 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Now there is nothing wrong with my band saw, but I do have a project I would like to use its 1HP motor for. Specifically a wide drum sander, and thought this would be a good time to upgrade the band saw to a 1.5HP motor.

Only problem is, I am not sure what to look for in an electric motor for a band saw. Can you guys or gals give me any decent pointers?

I need to keep the budget in mind, so I can only consider motors under $200.00, the lower the better, but I do not want junk either…

I have a Dayton 1.5HP motor in the attic that a friend gave me, I hooked it up and it is dead… is that worth trying to get it fixed?

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com


6 replies so far

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

3962 posts in 2626 days


#1 posted 02-02-2010 05:33 PM

I don’t know anything about motors. I wonder if there are some straight forward tests with VOM that would tell you where it might have problems. I would guess the Dayton could be run on 110 or 220, so it might be worth investing a little time into it to be sure it doesn’t have a simple problem.

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View Steve Peterson's profile

Steve Peterson

324 posts in 2544 days


#2 posted 02-02-2010 06:20 PM

The most important parameter is to match the RPMs. Many bandsaws are 1725 RPM. Motors commonly come in 3450 RPM and 1725 RPM, with the 3450 RPM seeming to be the most popular (smaller and cheaper also).

The next criteria is mounting. There are 2 styles, side bracket mount (56 frame) or face mount (56C frame). Pick the one that matches and start searching. Look up the model number of the motor currently on the bandsaw and you should be able to identify the mounting size. All 56 frame motors should be compatible with each other.

One more criteria is cooling. The existing motor is probably TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooling). Match the same type.

One final parameter is voltage. A 1 HP motor would run just fine on 110V. 1.5 HP would be running around 15A (maybe more) on 110V. It should be on it’s own breaker, preferably 20A. Or even better wire it for 220V.

There are many web sites that sell motors that let you search by parameters to find exactly what you want. An import quality 1.5 HP motor should run around $150. A Leeson or a Baldor would probably be about $300.

-- Steve

View ChunkyC's profile

ChunkyC

856 posts in 2716 days


#3 posted 02-03-2010 02:21 AM

is that worth trying to get it fixed? No. It’s a lot cheaper to buy a new one for a single phase, 110 / 220 Vac motor. I doubt that you could even find a motor shop to repair it. You can try checking the starting capacitor, that might be all that’s wrong with it.

Go to grainger.com, they have a motor “configurator” that you can use to help select the correct motor. I put a 3 phase 240V VFD rated motor on my drill press for, if I remember correctly, less than $200.

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115202 posts in 3038 days


#4 posted 02-03-2010 02:27 AM

How about The company that made your saw or Grizzly they may have and upgrade.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Julian's profile

Julian

880 posts in 2987 days


#5 posted 02-03-2010 03:48 AM

I scored an oldie but a goodie made in wisconsin 1 1/2 hp motor for my rigid 14” bandsaw off of craigslist for under $100. It’s not a tefc motor so I just keep the shroud clean. With the larger motor and a 6” riser block my saw cuts through 12” thick mahogany and oak much better than the stock 3/4 hp motor could.

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

View davidroberts's profile

davidroberts

1025 posts in 2947 days


#6 posted 02-28-2010 06:42 PM

i ran across this blog while looking for your HF detensioner upgrade blog. Regarding your electric motor, if you’re are still interested in using it, try looking at the capacitor. More times than not, its the capacitor. It lives under than bump on the side of your motor. They are an easy cheap replacement fix. You may want to look at the wiring and connections, depending on the age. Just a thought. I’ll go back to looking for your detensioner blog.

-- Better woodworking through old hand tools.

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