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Forum topic by Mark posted 01-25-2016 05:43 PM 1005 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Mark's profile


967 posts in 2150 days

01-25-2016 05:43 PM

Morning all. I have turned a mid sized hollow vessel. 4”x5”tall. Sanded to 600 grit and 2 coats of DIY wipe on poly and a rub down with 0000 steel wool. I thought it was pretty smooth when I finished, but now I can feel the occasional little dust speck?? I still have a mortice on the bottom so I can chuck it up. At this time I do not have a buffing wheel nor will I for a while yet. Any thoughts on what I might use to buff this vessel up? Thank you.

-- Mark

7 replies so far

View JamesVavra's profile


304 posts in 3491 days

#1 posted 01-25-2016 06:45 PM

I use the same buffing compounds (tripoli, white diamond, carnuba) and blue shop towels when I’m in a hurry – just apply the compound directly to the piece while still on the lathe, then buff with paper towel. It’s not quite as good as using the cotton/flannel buffing wheels, but close.

View OSU55's profile


1927 posts in 2165 days

#2 posted 01-25-2016 09:05 PM

800-1000 grit sandpaper by hand, not on lathe, just a swipe or 2 to cut of the nib. Then steel wool and whatever polishing compound. The problem with steel wool or scotchbrite is they won’t cut the dust nib standing proud of the surface any more than the rest of the surface. Light swipes with sandpaper will cut them right off. I prefer Meguiar’s line of paint finishing products for rubbing out/polishing. I use them on the lathe with paper towels or old t-shirts.

View Bob Collins's profile

Bob Collins

2587 posts in 3859 days

#3 posted 01-26-2016 12:55 AM

The above just about covers it Mark, I was told that brown paper does a good job but can’t verify this.
I bought a buffing set from the states at PEN STATE INDUSTRIES and it was cheaper even with postage
than buying one here in Australia. All there product are reasonable priced. Just for info. Look forward to seeing your hollow vessel.

-- Bob C, Australia. Your best teacher is your last mistake.

View WoodNSawdust's profile


1417 posts in 1352 days

#4 posted 01-26-2016 12:59 AM

As bob said use brown paper bag to rub it out. This works for flat surfaces for me so should work for a round turning. I would probably rechuck it in the lathe and without power rub the surface with the paper.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View moke's profile


1257 posts in 2952 days

#5 posted 01-28-2016 10:21 PM

I have a friend that consistantly used a paper bag on everything…even flat work…he buffs it back with a smaller buffer made for cars…while the lathe is turning at low speed. I voiced some concern and his respond is, you use basically a glorified power drill to sand your bowls…why wont this work. I must admit he does get some good results….maybe it make me mad because I have 400.00 in various buffers…..

-- Mike

View soob's profile


269 posts in 1384 days

#6 posted 02-08-2016 06:40 PM

The mushroom type buffing wheel can be had for less than $10 on ebay with a mandrel. You can mount in an MT drill chuck ($15 at harbor freight).

Buffing is great since you can get off the same circular axis as sanding. A huge improvement.

View soob's profile


269 posts in 1384 days

#7 posted 02-14-2016 08:23 PM

Oh, yeah, going back to buffing. It’s not a good way to make anything smooth or flat. I don’t even bother with the tripoli compound. It tends to leave ripples. If you have dust specks they need to be sanded off. Do it with the lathe off and use a 1000 or 2000 grit wet sandpaper. Make sure it’s real American grit and not p1000 (which is closer to 500 grit).

Sand to make smooth, buff to make shiny.

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