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Makita Planer Jointer Saw (LM3001)

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Forum topic by lumberjuniorvarsity posted 01-23-2016 10:44 PM 1896 views 1 time favorited 40 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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lumberjuniorvarsity

66 posts in 362 days


01-23-2016 10:44 PM

Hopefully checking this out tomorrow. I was too late on a Hitachi F1000A recently, but this seems to be a very similar machine(no fold down wings, though).

It’s hard to find info on this model, although I’ve seen many write about the Makita 2030/N, which I think is a later version of this machine without the tablesaw.

This may be my first jointer and planer, so I’m hoping it’s in as good of shape as the seller says it is. I know to check the feed rollers, and I’ll bring along a square.

Any other suggestions? Is it worth it to try to open it up to check any belts? Don’t want to be too pushy, but I also don’t want to put money into something that causes headaches unnecessarily down the road (tight budget).

https://cosprings.craigslist.org/tls/5397831071.html

Either way, I think it’ll fun to check out!


40 replies so far

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MrUnix

4245 posts in 1666 days


#1 posted 01-23-2016 10:52 PM

With the exception of that saw hanging off the side, it looks identical to the 2030 (not the 2030N).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1188 days


#2 posted 01-24-2016 12:42 AM

That does look very cool, I couldn’t find information on the saw blade diameter, but it looks like it’s got to be close to 16 inches! I’ve worked on a couple 2030 units and one of the things you’ll want to check is the infeed and outfeed rollers. I’d look at the belts too, I’m guessing it’s got more than one as the blade wouldn’t be able to spin nearly as fast as the other two cutterheads on the planer and jointer. Either way, if it’s in good shape it certainly looks like it would be worth the asking price.

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lumberjuniorvarsity

66 posts in 362 days


#3 posted 01-24-2016 10:02 PM

Got it! I’ll post pics later. Came with the owners manual, tool kit, and extra blades for both planer and jointer (which are nicked up, but hopefully have enough life in them to be resharpened).

Best of all, the rollers have already been resurfaced (they’re bright yellow and look to be in perfect shape)!

When I tried jointing and planing at the seller’s house, my boards were coming out tapered, but square. I’m guessing that’s either user error or the beds need adjusting.

Downsides – there’s no throat plate for the saw, cover plate for the chain/gears that drive the rollers, and the drive belt is split and needs to be replaced.

I’ll post more later!

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waho6o9

7179 posts in 2044 days


#4 posted 01-24-2016 10:09 PM

Good news LGV & congrats!

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TheWoodRaccoon

364 posts in 397 days


#5 posted 01-24-2016 11:06 PM

That looks wicked cool, and SCARY! LOL! When was this machine made?

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

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lumberjuniorvarsity

66 posts in 362 days


#6 posted 01-25-2016 04:04 AM

So here are some pics. Not the greatest, but the lighting was challenging with the garage door open. And I only have one lightbulb in my garage otherwise (garage lighting is on the to-do list somewhere).

I haven’t even begun to really mess around with it yet, so time will tell if there are any hidden surprises that seriously affect its functionality (like the cracked drive belt). I was able to take off the table saw, but not the two supporting legs – yet. I really don’t think I need it, and it would be nice to have it out of the way when using the thickness planer.

I think the first thing I need to do is resharpen the blades and degunk some of the gears. Overall it looks to be in great shape. The seller’s grandpa bought it new and passed it down to him (apparently when he upgraded to some Powermatic units) where it was used infrequently. His grandpa must have had the rollers resurfaced, cause they sure look pretty! (Hurray for grandpas!)

Yeti – the manual says it’s a 13 1/8” saw blade.

Racoon – Scary is right! I haven’t found a date on the machine, but my manual was printed in 1981.

P.S. I was able to get it for $400 on account of the cracked belt. Definitely feel like that was a good buy for this area – as long as there aren’t any other unfortunate surprises awaiting me…

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lumberjuniorvarsity

66 posts in 362 days


#7 posted 01-25-2016 04:05 AM

I don’t know why the pictures are all cut off… Sorry!

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MrUnix

4245 posts in 1666 days


#8 posted 01-25-2016 05:25 AM

Those posts have spring pins holding them in… you should be able to use a pin punch to drive them out and then remove the posts. However, I don’t think you want to get rid of them… the four posts (two on each side) is what holds up the main castings… pretty sure if you remove the table saw portion, nothing will be supporting that side of the machine except the planer table posts – which might not be the best idea.

Also, it appears to be missing the feed roller gear train cover… did you take it off? If not, that might be a hard find to replace.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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lumberjuniorvarsity

66 posts in 362 days


#9 posted 01-25-2016 05:41 PM



Those posts have spring pins holding them in… you should be able to use a pin punch to drive them out and then remove the posts. However, I don t think you want to get rid of them… the four posts (two on each side) is what holds up the main castings… pretty sure if you remove the table saw portion, nothing will be supporting that side of the machine except the planer table posts – which might not be the best idea.

Also, it appears to be missing the feed roller gear train cover… did you take it off? If not, that might be a hard find to replace.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

Do you think they really provide that much support? Other than those 2 posts, the tablesaw top connects to the frame of the machine by two L brackets (you can see part of one to the left of the planer infeed), and the bolts run through the bracket into the bottom of the tabletop. The seller didn’t have them bolted down, so it was easy to pull the whole thing off after disconnecting the wiring. I imagine that if I were to find bolts and connect everything, the table would add even more weight to the planer posts. The only way that it would reduce stress is if the tablesaw portion of the machine ‘pulled’ the rest of the machine that way – providing more lateral stability. That seems like a backwards way to design something – that it would provide a torque force.

Based on something I read somewhere else (can’t remember where exactly), the table was an option for the 2030, which I see you have. I wonder if you have threaded holes where that L bracket would go? I need to go back and look at your pics.

I’ll do whatever is best, and if that means putting it back on I’ll put it back on. I just don’t see it right now…

As far as the gear train cover – you’re right! Good eyes. It’s missing. I need to figure out a way to get that covered up.

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MrUnix

4245 posts in 1666 days


#10 posted 01-25-2016 06:12 PM

Based on something I read somewhere else (can’t remember where exactly), the table was an option for the 2030, which I see you have. I wonder if you have threaded holes where that L bracket would go? I need to go back and look at your pics.
- lumberjuniorvarsity

I’ve never seen the saw as an option for the 2030, and don’t know how that would work as the base on the machines are different, the chain drive would have to be modified to power the saw part, and there are no threaded holes to mount the L-brackets with. Although I’m pretty sure both are based on the 2030 design, and just a few different bits and pieces installed at the factory allowed them to change it into a LM3001 without much effort. And now that I think about it, you might be right about those two extra posts providing very little support other than to hold up the saw part… with the saw part gone, it’s pretty much setup like the 2030 with just the two table posts and two smaller support posts under the jointer. Here are some photos for comparison:

Makita 2030:

Makita LM3001:

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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lumberjuniorvarsity

66 posts in 362 days


#11 posted 01-25-2016 11:42 PM

Thanks for posting those pics. You can definitely tell the 3001 has a wider base than the 2030, so that would be a completely different part required. Seem like they could have tapped holes for those L brackets in the same casting.

As far as the saw goes, the electrical connection runs up through one of those posts, but that’s the only source of power to the saw. It has its own motor (800watts – or a little over 1hp) mounted under the table!

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MrUnix

4245 posts in 1666 days


#12 posted 01-25-2016 11:52 PM

As far as the saw goes, the electrical connection runs up through one of those posts, but that s the only source of power to the saw. It has its own motor (800watts – or a little over 1hp) mounted under the table!
- lumberjuniorvarsity

That’s interesting….. it looks like it’s on the same plane as the cutter heads on the jointer/planer, so I thought it would have just extended the cutter head shaft to run the saw arbor. Since it has a separate motor, I guess all that would need to be done to a 2030 is like you suggest – swap out the base and tap some holes (along with the necessary additional electrical connections).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1188 days


#13 posted 01-26-2016 02:34 AM

I thought the blade arbor looked a little off from being concentric with the planer cutter head as I kind of expected. The cutter head on the planer & jointer would spin way too fast for a 13 3/8” saw blade, by a factor of well over two. I somewhat expected to see a belt running the blade arbor from the planer, but that would be spinning up alot of parts with only a universal motor (not to mention the detraction of safety having a saw running when not needed). That the saw has it’s own motor makes much more sense.

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irish620

37 posts in 1776 days


#14 posted 03-01-2016 06:40 AM

Hey LumberJunior,

I too am the proud owner of the Mikita LM3001. I have put a fair amount of work into it this past year and thought we could be a resource for each other. Obviously there are not many of this particular Makita flavor out there so probably good idea if we stick together. I actually like the tablesaw option because it does add some weight to the machine, which always helps for stability. It’s pretty awesome to be able to rip, joint and plane all without a leaving 3×3 sq ft space. The tablesaw is a little quirky, but the rip fence is pretty sweet with it’s micro adjustment and the motor has a lot of power for being so small, the only downside is that the fence is on the left-hand side versus the traditional right-hand side. Unfortunately mine is missing the throat plate, splitter, blade guard and round saw blade guard. So, I still have to make a better zero clearance insert for the saw and fabricate what I can to improve dust collection. Is your manual the 2030 or an actual LM3001 manual ?

Tim

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Andre

1023 posts in 1273 days


#15 posted 03-01-2016 07:22 AM

Congratulations! I am the owner of a Hitachi F1000A. It is in great shape, did buy a complete set of knifes which cost more than what I paid for the machine but at least I have a spare set, was also able to pick up some spare belts and brushes for the motor(E-bay). Was told that if you can find the drive belts grab them as they are no longer produced and are quickly becoming obsolete!

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

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