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How do you cut dog hole slots?

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Forum topic by rwe2156 posted 01-23-2016 02:25 PM 570 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rwe2156

2192 posts in 944 days


01-23-2016 02:25 PM

I’ve set up my radial arm with a dado at 88 degrees.
Made a test cut and (besides my dado set need sharpening) I wasn’t real crazy about it. Saw way underpowered even taking shallow passes plus it wants to self feed something fierse. Gonna try it with a 1/2” set up.

Not adverse to a router but I would rather not just because I don’t want to make a template and I don’t like the noise and sawdust everywhere.

I’m thought of using two crosscut blades with a spacer but that won’t work because RAS won’t accomodate it and doing it on the TS is too fraught with error.

So I’m thinking I will cut two passes and remove material with chisel and router plane. I can use a spacer so slots will be uniform.

This is hard maple.

Tell me how you did yours – No, I don’t want to do round holes ;-)

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!


7 replies so far

View builtinbkyn's profile

builtinbkyn

651 posts in 403 days


#1 posted 01-23-2016 02:47 PM

Just make multiple passes with a crosscut blade if the saw is struggling with the dado stack. Then clean out with a chisel.

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn :)

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WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 639 days


#2 posted 01-23-2016 03:50 PM

If you are speaking of bench dog holes I went with round holes to simplify the matter.

I had the same problem with a radial arm saw. Also mine wanted to flex enough so the depth of the dado would change front to back.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2853 posts in 2694 days


#3 posted 01-23-2016 04:08 PM


Tell me how you did yours – No, I don t want to do round holes ;-)

- rwe2156

Mine turned out nice.

I bored two holes for each slot. Then connected them with a line for each side of the slot and cut away most of the waste with a jig saw. Then I used pieces of 1/2 inch mdf to form a template and ran a flush trim router bit around the inside of the template.

Later, after laminating the top, I use a pattern bit to cut away the excess Formica, and followed it with a chamfer bit set really shallow so it only eased the edge of the Formica.

It takes a little time and work, but if you want the result to look good, you got to do the time! :-)
Here is a link to my project. There is a link to my blog which I described the build and posted a lot of construction pics.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/92907

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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rwe2156

2192 posts in 944 days


#4 posted 01-26-2016 02:35 PM



Just make multiple passes with a crosscut blade if the saw is struggling with the dado stack. Then clean out with a chisel.

- builtinbkyn

Thats what I ended up doing. Came out satsifactorily.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View splatman's profile

splatman

558 posts in 862 days


#5 posted 01-26-2016 07:45 PM



it wants to self feed something fierse.
- rwe2156

Can you slide it all the way out, place your stock, then cut on the back stroke?

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ScottM

346 posts in 1609 days


#6 posted 01-26-2016 08:45 PM

Multiple single passes with a rip blade. It leaves a flat bottom.

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 614 days


#7 posted 01-26-2016 10:06 PM

Can you slide it all the way out, place your stock, then cut on the back stroke?
ABSOLUTELY NOT, the rotation of the blade will want to pick the piece up. Joys of dadoes on a RAS.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

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