I began in the Design Forum trying to get my plan set up. – Check that off
Then, I fretted about staining and dying my dissimilar wood choices. – Check that one off, too
Finally, I worried about how I wanted to apply banding to the PW pieces – Check that one off, also
After all that, I began trying to figure out how to go about getting this thing off the ground.
I ordered a set of Edging router bits from Amazon:
They are 1/2” shanked.
So, I needed to figure out how to get them into my old Craftsman 1/4” router.
Decided that I needed a 1/2” router and could use a plunge router too.
So, I ran down to HD and picked up a RYOBI RE180PL1G.
Then, I decided that I needed a fence to work from.
So, I added a “tube” to the back side of the saw fence that I can hook the shop vac to in order to draw the chips and dust away.
It doesn’t vacuum as well as I had hoped.
But, the fence works pretty good.
After trying to route a few 3/4” square x 10’ strips into edging, I decided that I needed some feather boards.
So, I made and mounted a couple of them forward of the router bit.
I think a couple of them aft, of the router bit would be a good idea also, in order to get a good cut through the full length of the strip.
I think they would also help in getting good accurate cuts along the edges of the PW pieces without damaging them to receive the banding.
I’ve also ordered a set of Yonico 12243 Rail and Stile bits for the cabinet door frames when I get to them.
I built a quick and dirty router extension for my table saw.
I will use it for this project.
But, I’ve decided that I will end up making a larger one by removing the sheet metal side wing and use the entire LH side of the saw as a router table enlarging the router extension from 14-1/2” to 24-1/2” X 27”.
I need a better insert plate than the one I’m using now, a piece of 3/4” PW routed down to about 1/2” thickness or less.
It’s too thick for the length of the router bits installed in this plunge router.
A 1/4” or 1/8” thick piece of acrylic, aluminum or steel might do the job.
Then, I’ll add the router lift described in ShopNotes #121.
I can make the existing table setup work on this project, then make the larger one after I’ve finished.
I’ve gone with the top and bottom pieces butting up to the sides with dowels reinforcing the joints.
I’m not happy with that, but will go with it because the pieces are already cut.
I have ordered a Lock Miter Router Bit for the next time I need to make a similar joint.
Not sure How well it will work on plywood.
I’m thinking that after making another pair of feather boards, I’ll have all ther tools needed to finish this.
Still making progress, slow but sure.
-- Every mighty oak is nothing more than a nut that has stood it's ground.