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Forum topic by 1voyager1 posted 01-22-2016 11:27 PM 964 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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74 posts in 1432 days

01-22-2016 11:27 PM

I began in the Design Forum trying to get my plan set up. – Check that off
Then, I fretted about staining and dying my dissimilar wood choices. – Check that one off, too
Finally, I worried about how I wanted to apply banding to the PW pieces – Check that one off, also

After all that, I began trying to figure out how to go about getting this thing off the ground.

I ordered a set of Edging router bits from Amazon:
Yonico 15223

They are 1/2” shanked.
So, I needed to figure out how to get them into my old Craftsman 1/4” router.
Decided that I needed a 1/2” router and could use a plunge router too.
So, I ran down to HD and picked up a RYOBI RE180PL1G.

Then, I decided that I needed a fence to work from.
So, I added a “tube” to the back side of the saw fence that I can hook the shop vac to in order to draw the chips and dust away.
It doesn’t vacuum as well as I had hoped.
But, the fence works pretty good.
After trying to route a few 3/4” square x 10’ strips into edging, I decided that I needed some feather boards.
So, I made and mounted a couple of them forward of the router bit.
I think a couple of them aft, of the router bit would be a good idea also, in order to get a good cut through the full length of the strip.
I think they would also help in getting good accurate cuts along the edges of the PW pieces without damaging them to receive the banding.

I’ve also ordered a set of Yonico 12243 Rail and Stile bits for the cabinet door frames when I get to them.

I built a quick and dirty router extension for my table saw.
I will use it for this project.
But, I’ve decided that I will end up making a larger one by removing the sheet metal side wing and use the entire LH side of the saw as a router table enlarging the router extension from 14-1/2” to 24-1/2” X 27”.
I need a better insert plate than the one I’m using now, a piece of 3/4” PW routed down to about 1/2” thickness or less.
It’s too thick for the length of the router bits installed in this plunge router.
A 1/4” or 1/8” thick piece of acrylic, aluminum or steel might do the job.
Then, I’ll add the router lift described in ShopNotes #121.
I can make the existing table setup work on this project, then make the larger one after I’ve finished.

I’ve gone with the top and bottom pieces butting up to the sides with dowels reinforcing the joints.
I’m not happy with that, but will go with it because the pieces are already cut.
I have ordered a Lock Miter Router Bit for the next time I need to make a similar joint.

Not sure How well it will work on plywood.
We’ll see.
I’m thinking that after making another pair of feather boards, I’ll have all ther tools needed to finish this.

Still making progress, slow but sure.

-- Every mighty oak is nothing more than a nut that has stood it's ground.

3 replies so far

View ohtimberwolf's profile


799 posts in 2353 days

#1 posted 01-23-2016 12:34 AM

Wow, looks like one thing leads to another new thing. Nice start though. :) larry

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

View HalfShirt's profile


30 posts in 880 days

#2 posted 01-23-2016 12:44 AM

I’m eager to see how this turns out. Nice start.

-- Why is there never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over?

View rwe2156's profile


2926 posts in 1481 days

#3 posted 01-23-2016 12:57 PM

IMO using that big to joint the plywood will be more aggravation, noise and sawdust than its worth.

If you just use glue on edging and but joint with screws you’ll be fine.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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