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Possible band saw purchase advice needed

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Forum topic by jonlruss posted 01-22-2016 05:49 PM 483 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jonlruss

99 posts in 579 days


01-22-2016 05:49 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw

I’m going to take a look at a band saw tomorrow I’m considering getting but would like to get a little input here before I go. I know a few things to check for: vibration, trunions, tire condition, wheel alignment, but I know there’s more I should look for and consider especially from the picture. Yes, it apparently has three (!?) riser blocks. I can’t imagine ever needing that many so I’d definitely be planning on removing two of them. What effect might having had that many riser blocks have had on the saw that I should be concerned about? Asking price is $250 and other than the picture I don’t really know anything about it yet other than it runs. I welcome your input.


8 replies so far

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1186 days


#1 posted 01-22-2016 05:58 PM

The three risers alone would scare me away from that, I can’t imagine anything more dense than styrofoam that could be thick enough to try to cut with that saw needing that kind of height. Is the motor three or single phase? Check the tire condition, this can be a source of vibration if they’re not concentric with the wheels. Check the drive belt. Check for any rust in the cabinet as it can be indicative of no/poor dust collection. General abuse or neglect should be apparent and the price should reflect that. The price seems about right (for my area anyway) for a saw like that but the three risers is a definite concern.

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Ger21

1047 posts in 2597 days


#2 posted 01-22-2016 06:03 PM

I would avoid that saw. However, whatever they were cutting was probably a very lightweight material.
But it’s an old saw, that’s been heavily modified.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 952 days


#3 posted 01-22-2016 06:21 PM

I’d buy it and sell the extra riser blocks.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#4 posted 01-22-2016 07:08 PM

Looks like someone has seriously hacked that thing. Plus, it’s missing the lower guide adjusting knobs, so it might be missing the entire lower guide assembly or have some other hacked up thing down there. Upper guard is also missing some bits, so who knows what else might be missing/hacked/modified. Don’t plan on it being a plug-n-play machine as it will most likely require some serious work to get in shape. Does look like it has the rear belt guard though, which is a plus.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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JAAune

1646 posts in 1783 days


#5 posted 01-22-2016 07:15 PM

Lower guides aren’t important but the blade guard would make it a lot less scary. I’d consider that a project saw to be priced accordingly. Assume you will spend a couple days plus another $100 returning it to a usable state. I’d consider buying it at $100 but I’d rather spend $400 on a better saw than $250 for that one.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

6575 posts in 1616 days


#6 posted 01-22-2016 07:39 PM



Lower guides aren t important…
- JAAune

Lower guides are pretty important, actually. Especially if you are resawing something and want a straight cut that has no deflection in the blade.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

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JAAune

1646 posts in 1783 days


#7 posted 01-22-2016 07:51 PM

The lower guides work too late. By the time they act to straighten the blade the teeth are already past the wood. I don’t even adjust mine anymore but focus on getting the top ones perfect.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View TheGreatJon's profile

TheGreatJon

296 posts in 699 days


#8 posted 01-22-2016 08:22 PM

By the time they act to straighten the blade the teeth are already past the wood.

True, but we’ve all seen drift occur. They will stop blade the blade from deflecting and then wandering so your cut doesn’t deviate from 90°.

The three riser blocks create potential for a large bending force to be placed on the lower casting. When the blade is tensioned you are trying to pull the upper wheel down onto the base. Any lateral movement in the upper wheel creates more of a moment arm for that force.

I would check the tensioning mechanism on the upper wheel and the base casting right around the bottom riser block. The stresses would concentrate around that joint if they weren’t really careful with it. Overtensioning could hurt both of these points, and just getting knocked around in it’s current configuration could do a number on that base casting.

-- This is not the signature line you are looking for.

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