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Forum topic by 3285jeff posted 01-22-2016 04:15 AM 757 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3285jeff

152 posts in 1184 days


01-22-2016 04:15 AM

since my last posting on here I have tried everyones advice on setting up my radial arm saw,,watched videos and even got a new blade for it and now I find out the blade is vering about 3/8 from the back stop where the blade starts cutting to the end of the carriage,,,lol,,I have checked the settings over and over but this is happening now,,,any more suggestions before I scrap it,,lol


17 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#1 posted 01-22-2016 04:40 AM

The best alignment procedure is detailed in the manual for your saw... sounds like your carriage travel is not perpendicular to the fence, as detailed in step 3. Have you verified with a square that it is?

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View realcowtown_eric's profile

realcowtown_eric

565 posts in 1403 days


#2 posted 01-22-2016 05:36 AM

That’s whyI ove RA saws!!!!

First off, if yu don’t know the history of the saw, replace the carraige bearings. I used to have to replace them every two three years. Without doing that any measurements for squareness in any axis of freedom are gonna be off, and all efforts to naught!

First you gotta check that the blade is tracking parallel to the carriage tracks and that they are clean

Here it sounds like with that amount of variance is due to the fence/table pieces, they may not be parallel, but just pieces of wood picked out of the scrap pile, That’s step two. The back piece has to be straight and not tapered.as does the fence. Also it could be the “square setting notches” on the column.

Once you get that figured out, then you gotta make sure that the table and it’s fence is indeed square to the blade, and you’ll need a dial indicator to do that.

Get that in hand and then you gotta check that the table is co-planer with the travel of the blade, and shim if necessary, front. back, left right…many checks

And then you gotta check that the blade is square to the table

Go through all these steps and double check em, and it should work like a charm but move it ever so slightly, and you’ll probably have to go over all these steps agin.

If it doesn’t wprl ;ike a charm, you gotta go back to step 2 and start all over again
.

Tuning a RAS takes a whack of time.

Even dropping a 2×10 piece of oak on the table can knock it out of whack.

Grasshopper, there is a reason why only die-hards use these anachronisms instead of modern day chop saws

But do not despair….if you learn to master the set-up of a radial arm saw to precision, you will have the tools and the understanding which will facilitate set up and adjustment of many other woodworking appliances

That’s why I love em. I pity the po bubbahs who cannot set up a machine in 6 or 7 degrees of freedom.

Local used tool store won’t even take them on consignment. but they are a learning excercise!!!

Good luck

Eric

-- Real_cowtown_eric

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3947 posts in 1959 days


#3 posted 01-22-2016 11:57 AM

When you posted the model number I looked it up. It appears to be one of the saws that had an aluminum clamshell for the base of the column. That model just isn’t going to function (well) for any period of time….if at all. 3/8” is huge for an out of alignment, and i think maybe it’s time to check the recall list and see if it qualifies. If not, I’d take it to the scrap yard. In the meantime start checking CL for an old Dewalt or a Delta turret arm. Nothing will turn you against an RAS like a poorly made one, move on to a higher quality saw.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

2410 posts in 1980 days


#4 posted 01-22-2016 12:27 PM

After reading Eric’s post, I think I’d swear off radial arm saws for life.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

616 posts in 1027 days


#5 posted 01-22-2016 02:29 PM

If it’s a recalled saw you can get $100 for it.

View SirIrb's profile

SirIrb

1239 posts in 697 days


#6 posted 01-22-2016 03:10 PM

Craftsman made crap and in keeping with that tradition they have not deviated.

I would swear off Craftsman but not a nice ras. Look for delta, Dewalt etc. Something old with a little love shown will serve you longer and better than Craftsman could ever do.

Steve
Who took his Craftsman RAS to the hood, dropped it off, left the key in it and no one took it.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1187 days


#7 posted 01-22-2016 03:17 PM

My grandma has an old turret Delta Milwaukee that my grandpa bought at auction and never got a chance to set up. The two reasons I think I might want it are: A) It’s heavier and hopefully more accurate than an aluminum craftsman. B) I can’t (& shouldn’t) mount a dado in a sliding miter saw.

View Robin1's profile

Robin1

128 posts in 957 days


#8 posted 01-22-2016 03:35 PM

I don’t know where you’re located but I’ve got a DeWalt RAS that’s in very nice shape that I no longer have room for…$75 and you’d step up…upstate NY isn’t that far away…these are not the droids you’re looking for…

View 3285jeff's profile

3285jeff

152 posts in 1184 days


#9 posted 01-22-2016 11:45 PM

I want to thank all of you for your info on this saw,,i have read all of it and the owners manual as well,, and did every adjustment over and over but it will not cut square,,i even had replacement parts made by a machinest that was not available to purchase on line,,so the junk man will be getting it next Wednesday,,,im not going to sell trash to no one,,, I can see now why they stopped making them,,and you can buy used ones for near nothing,,i cant speak for the other brands,,but I would not have a craftsman if it was given to me,,but I guess after 30 yrs,,what can you expect,,lol,,thank you all for responding and taking your time in trying to help,,

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

616 posts in 1027 days


#10 posted 01-22-2016 11:58 PM

I checked the serial number and you can get $100 for it. They send you a postage paid box to return just the motor. So why junk it? Here’s the site… http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/default.aspx

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#11 posted 01-23-2016 12:08 AM

,,so the junk man will be getting it next Wednesday,,,im not going to sell trash to no one,,,
- 3285jeff

If you don’t want to go the $100 recall route, please don’t send it to the landfill. List it for free on CL or your local classified ads. While you may not place any value on it, there are certainly others out there who do, and there is no reason to trash perfectly usable parts, particularly ones that are no longer available from the manufacturer.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2326 posts in 1763 days


#12 posted 01-23-2016 12:11 AM

Get a hundred for yours and go get the Dewalt MBF (I assume) for $75. Money ahead and a better saw.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3947 posts in 1959 days


#13 posted 01-23-2016 12:44 PM

Even if you don’t want/need the $100, you could donate it to a local charity (the $100, not the saw).

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

2410 posts in 1980 days


#14 posted 01-23-2016 01:14 PM

There’s been one outside in the “for sale” yard of my local recycling center where I take my cans and other metal for recycling, missing the motor. Obviously someone cashed in on the recall…

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View 3285jeff's profile

3285jeff

152 posts in 1184 days


#15 posted 01-23-2016 02:52 PM

well I have been looking and I found a dewalt 790 and he also had a older Rockwell delta where the arm actually piviots on the middle,,lol,,im certainaly not the expert so what would would your options be of either of the saws,,,,

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