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That's the Way to Set the Bandsaw Guides

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Forum topic by JAAune posted 01-22-2016 12:57 AM 677 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JAAune

1642 posts in 1779 days


01-22-2016 12:57 AM

Get them as tight as you can without actually touching the blade.

Due to slight rounding of the leading edge of the guides, the gap looks bigger than it is. Those are steel blocks.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com


12 replies so far

View johnhutchinson's profile

johnhutchinson

1195 posts in 1092 days


#1 posted 01-22-2016 01:36 AM

Why steel blocks when it looks like Cool Blocks would fit?
Then you could take the clearance down to zero, and even bury the teeth of an 1/8” blade.

-- John - Central Ohio - "too much is never enough"

View TheWoodRaccoon's profile

TheWoodRaccoon

364 posts in 392 days


#2 posted 01-22-2016 01:58 AM

Yup! True about the leading edge being wider. But, I think you should get some cool blocks for your saw. With those, you could even butt the blocks right up against the blade, but not too tight.

A neat trick: if your cool blocks fit loosely inside the slots of your saw, carefully wrap 1 or 2 layers of duct tap around them to take up the slack/empty space. It makes adjustments much easier, especially under the table.

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 949 days


#3 posted 01-22-2016 02:11 AM

Have had a bandsaw for awhile. Rarely used it as it always drifted. Finally watched Alex snodgrass bandsaw clinic video and set the guides up as illustrated in the OP. Worked like a boss. Wish I had set it up like that sooner.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1642 posts in 1779 days


#4 posted 01-22-2016 02:13 AM

The secondary bandsaw does have cool blocks but those are a hassle hence the reason it’s the secondary. It doesn’t take long before the blade wears away a few thousandths from the guides and negates the advantages. Hardened steel guides are as simple as it gets, require almost no maintenance and will maintain the .001” gap for a long while (6 months so far). Supposedly they generate more heat but the blades are never hot when I shut the saw down.

If I actually used 1/8” blades cool blocks would be more attractive but the scrollsaw, laser and CNC handle all those tasks.

If you investigate industrial saws, you’ll find high end guides are often equipped with ceramic, or carbide blocks. That’s for equipment designed to run for long periods of time. Check out this link for Wright guides.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View ThomasChippendale's profile

ThomasChippendale

244 posts in 395 days


#5 posted 01-22-2016 02:20 AM

The ceramic insert in my Lagune guides were poorly glued in place I am progressively replacing them with Lignum Vitae inserts and if the blade happens to back-up inside the blocks, it does not get ruined. And I can just get them press fit.

-- PJ

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4221 posts in 1662 days


#6 posted 01-22-2016 02:28 AM

Why steel blocks when it looks like Cool Blocks would fit?

Cool blocks (and roller guides) are IMO a waste of money… nothing beats the original HSS blocks.
For those concerned about the ‘heat’ non-issue, take a look here:

14-inch Bandsaw Blade Guides - Tool Review by Jim Mattson

(courtesy of the Woodworker’s Gazette)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1642 posts in 1779 days


#7 posted 01-22-2016 02:32 AM

Yes, heat comes from clogged gullets and dull blades. Get a coarser blade and replace it when dull.

Having said that, the steel guides are best if they are hardened and not mild steel.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View ThomasChippendale's profile

ThomasChippendale

244 posts in 395 days


#8 posted 01-22-2016 02:44 AM

Look at the guides on his bandsaw, pretty cool.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MPSlzG6AtM

-- PJ

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

1420 posts in 2328 days


#9 posted 01-22-2016 02:46 AM

I think cool blocks are also a waste of money, make you some out of a hard wood like maple.

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

2227 posts in 1909 days


#10 posted 01-22-2016 04:07 AM



I think cool blocks are also a waste of money, make you some out of a hard wood like maple.

- patcollins


+1, I made 6 of them a couple of years ago,soaked them in oil and I’m still using the first set.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View TheWoodRaccoon's profile

TheWoodRaccoon

364 posts in 392 days


#11 posted 01-22-2016 06:56 PM



Look at the guides on his bandsaw, pretty cool.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MPSlzG6AtM

- ThomasChippendale

I
Oh yeah, I’m a huge fan of Marius’s! I love his style.

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

View TheWoodRaccoon's profile

TheWoodRaccoon

364 posts in 392 days


#12 posted 01-22-2016 06:56 PM



Why steel blocks when it looks like Cool Blocks would fit?

Cool blocks (and roller guides) are IMO a waste of money… nothing beats the original HSS blocks.
For those concerned about the heat non-issue, take a look here:

14-inch Bandsaw Blade Guides - Tool Review by Jim Mattson

(courtesy of the Woodworker s Gazette)

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

I kept my original HSS blocks, juuuuuuuust in case. :)

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

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