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Need A Hand Plane For Edging/Jointing

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Forum topic by Wondermutt posted 01-21-2016 04:45 PM 810 views 1 time favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Wondermutt

69 posts in 316 days


01-21-2016 04:45 PM

Hi guys. I am getting into wood working and need some guidance on a plane. I will be using this for making flat edges to join boards to make table tops. I don’t have the money for a electric jointer, so for now I will have to use a hand plane.

Any recommendations is much appreciated.

Thanks


22 replies so far

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

15656 posts in 2466 days


#1 posted 01-21-2016 04:47 PM

#7or #8 plane would be your best bet. The longer the better.

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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BurlyBob

3646 posts in 1725 days


#2 posted 01-21-2016 04:51 PM

What Chris said! Oh Yeah, and another thing, Sharp!

View JayT's profile

JayT

4772 posts in 1671 days


#3 posted 01-21-2016 05:19 PM

#7 or #8 will work fine and the #7 is probably the most commonly recommended jointer plane.

That said, I actually do the vast majority of my jointing with a #6 and it works just as well. A #6 would have two advantages: They are lighter when working extended sessions and a good vintage #6 generally costs about half of what a #7 does.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

1735 posts in 598 days


#4 posted 01-21-2016 07:47 PM

I use a #5 to joint glue lines. Longer would be better but it’s not something I do often enough to justify the cost difference. You can pick up old jacks for less than 1/2 the cost of a similar jointer on e-bay. If I ever run across a jointer at a decent price, I’ll definitely snatch it up but I get by with my #5 just fine for now.

Keep in mind that I’m ripping the edges with a table saw and just taking a couple light “swipes” with the plane to smooth them up and tune the fit. If you’re not starting with a pretty straight, flat edge, you’ll definitely need a full size jointer to get good, consistent results.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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JayT

4772 posts in 1671 days


#5 posted 01-21-2016 08:12 PM

Contact fellow Lumberjock DonW. He’s showing a #6 and a #7 for sale. Buying through him, you’ll get a plane that is ready to work.

https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/tools-for-sale-2/

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View Wondermutt's profile

Wondermutt

69 posts in 316 days


#6 posted 01-21-2016 08:19 PM

Fantastic. You guys are great. I really appreciate the quick replies. I will be using it for straighten out an edge on dimensional lumber and running the other side through the end table saw.

I got tasked with making some furniture for the house, after the wife liked the way a shoe rack turned out.

Thanks again for the input. I really appreciate it.

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1056 posts in 1449 days


#7 posted 01-21-2016 09:29 PM

To align the boards for a panel glue up search for clamping cauls. Work much better than dowels or biscuits. You can use your hand plane and ts to make them from 2×4’s. Put sspacers at each end and a screw to pull them together in the center. Plane the outside edges flat. When the screw is removed the planed edges are perfectly radiused.

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Wondermutt

69 posts in 316 days


#8 posted 01-22-2016 01:05 AM

OSU- I did a search for what you described. Do you have a link or some pics to show the cauls method?

Thanks

View 8iowa's profile

8iowa

1546 posts in 3221 days


#9 posted 01-22-2016 01:37 AM

I get good use out of my no. 5 hand plane. Unless you are jointing rather long boards, this plane will do just fine.

The no. 5 can also be used with winding sticks to address twist on the surface of the board, thus prepping a surface as a reference surface for a planer.

Stanley no. 5’s are very common, and not expensive. Learn how to sharpen the blade and you are set to go.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

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OSU55

1056 posts in 1449 days


#10 posted 01-22-2016 01:14 PM

try this link

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Don W

17955 posts in 2027 days


#11 posted 01-22-2016 03:33 PM

Since we are talking about table tops, I would recommend a #7 or #8 size. (I say size because a Sargent 422 or 424, a Millers Falls 22 or 24 etcwill work just as well) .

A #6 size is a good all around plane and would work, but the lenght of the jointer plane will help.

There are many way to do this function, but in the end, the 22” and 24” planes were made for it.

There are also wooden counterparts that will work as well, and some are even longer, but take a bit more skill to master.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1056 posts in 1449 days


#12 posted 01-22-2016 07:58 PM

For jointing with a hand plane, joint 2 edges that will be fitting together at the same time. Lay out the pieces of the panel as they will be glued. Mark them on the ends so you know which edges match. Grab 2 adjacent pieces and “fold” them face to face so you are looking at the edges that will be glued. Clamp with these edges flush and so you can plane them. Being off a bit from vertical will not matter. When “unfolded”, the 2 edges will come together perfectly with the boards flat. Now, if you didn’t plane them flat along the length, they won’t be touching the full length. That’s where a little practice comes in. I joint mine to have a slight gap in the center (only a few thou, 1 or 2 passes with the plane), which “preloads” the ends to keep them from splitting years down the road.

View rick1955's profile

rick1955

258 posts in 891 days


#13 posted 01-22-2016 09:41 PM

You can joint edges on a table saw. Use a glue line rip blade.

http://www.wwgoa.com/article/jointing-on-the-table-saw/

Curved cauls are a must.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/2010april/cauls.html

-- Working smarter with less tools is a true crafts person...

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Wondermutt

69 posts in 316 days


#14 posted 01-22-2016 10:55 PM

Thanks OSU.

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rwe2156

2190 posts in 941 days


#15 posted 01-23-2016 01:03 PM

I’ve never been happy with glue ups right off the TS, even with the GLR blades.

I use the face-to-face technique successfully with only a #6.

I want to get a 7 or 8 but before I spend $200 for an old Stanley I’ll spend twice as much and buy the LN #8.

If not in the budget, another option would be to pick up / make a wooden jointer.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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