Jet vs. Rikon 10" Jointer/Planer

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Forum topic by rjensen posted 01-20-2016 07:00 PM 1661 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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6 posts in 1344 days

01-20-2016 07:00 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer rikon

Do any members here have any experience with Rikon’s 25-010 10” jointer/planer? I’m running out of space in my shop (i.e. garage) and am trying to figure out how to fit in a bandsaw and jointer. A regular floor-standing jointer isn’t going to be an option for quite some time, so my options consist of:
Handplanes + shooting boards
6” benchtop jointers
8-10” lunchbox jointer/planer combos

I wouldn’t mind doing the work by hand if I was only edge jointing, but I’m not sure I have the time to do face jointing. Is the Rikon option worth the 2x premium over JET? Are either worth the premiums over a 6” (Grizzly?) benchtop jointer?

Thank you in advance,

3 replies so far

View jakep_82's profile


105 posts in 2477 days

#1 posted 01-20-2016 07:28 PM

I have an older version of the 25-010 with a 2 knife cutter head. It’s a decent machine, but has some drawbacks.

Much of the machine is aluminum and plastic which means it won’t rust, but it’s also more delicate than cast iron. Mine has a few dents and dings in the tables, and I currently need to replace a plastic piece that holds one end of a feed roller in place. It is definitely not a machine built to last a lifetime.

It’s fiddly to adjust the jointer tables. and mine are what I could best describe as “good enough”. I spent hours trying to get them perfectly coplanar, and I never fully succeeded. That said I’ve checked boards after jointing, and it seems to get them flat.

The fence is mediocre. I’ve seen complaints from others about getting it square which has not been a problem for me, but it’s not a great fence regardless.

As a planer it does fine, but snipe is an issue. Feeding boards end to end can help, but it’s hard to completely eliminate. I also found it nearly impossible to adjust the table. Several of the sprockets that adjust the table height were broken when I got mine (my machine was used), and after installing replacements it took me forever to adjust the table parallel to the head. It’s once again what I would refer to as “good enough”.

Dust collection in both modes works well enough.

I bought mine used so I paid much less than the new cost. If I was looking to buy one now for the cost of a new machine, I would pass unless shop space is the only concern. You can do much better with a used 6” jointer from Craigslist and a lunchbox planer.

I would also note that the reviews on the Jet are generally terrible, but I’ve never used one.

View Richard's profile


1922 posts in 2862 days

#2 posted 01-20-2016 08:12 PM

Not sure what the Model # is but I have access to a Jet 15” jointer/planer with the helical cutter head at the Local Tech Shop and it does a really good job on both jobs ( as long as they rotate the cutters when they get nicked) leaving a very smooth finish that needs very little work after going thru the machine. Setup and changing from jointer to planer is very simple and quick.

View SFP's profile


31 posts in 1428 days

#3 posted 01-20-2016 10:05 PM

Unless your board has a large amount of twist or cup, hand planes can be very effective to help face joint a board. Would first suggest that you cut your boards to rough lengths. Then using a flat reference surface (table top, table saw outfeed table, etc.) lay the board down and find out where the cup/twist is. (You might want to flip the board to another face to see if it is easier to work). Using a cambered plane, remove the twist/cup, going back to the reference surface repeatedly to check. YOU DON’T NEED TO SURFACE THE ENTIRE BOARD, YOU ARE ONLY LOOKING TO GET IT FLAT ON THE REFERENCE SURFACE! Once it is flat, run it through your planer (flat side on planer bed), turn over and face plane the other side. Voila, you have two flat and parallel faces! This saves the thickness of the wood also.

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