Sliding compound mitre saw trouble..

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Forum topic by rppp posted 01-18-2016 06:38 PM 410 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1 post in 279 days

01-18-2016 06:38 PM

Initially I believed the saw blade was bent but after installing a brand new blade today I had the exact same problem. The cuts are not straight and as you can see from the image the wood is tight against the blade at the front but towards the back appears a few mm off and this is straight after the cut before I have moved the wood. The problem is made worse when using the sliding function, does anyone know how this can be fixed??

Many thanks in advance!!!

4 replies so far

View russde's profile


97 posts in 2259 days

#1 posted 01-18-2016 07:27 PM

The fence might be off from square or the wood is moving from the fence during the cut.
Use a clamp to hold it in place, if the result is the same the fence is out of alignment. The user manual should have directions for re-alignment.

View HokieKen's profile


1519 posts in 558 days

#2 posted 01-18-2016 08:04 PM

What kind of saw is it? Sliders inherently have some slop in them due to the added degree of freedom. It may simply be that the saw is just sloppy.

Then again, russde^^ may have nailed it with the most obvious answer which is that your fence just isn’t aligned. The burning on the first pic makes me think it’s something more than that though.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View ErnestP's profile


14 posts in 331 days

#3 posted 01-23-2016 02:53 AM

If the board had a bow to it,
as you cut, the board loses it’s support and falls into the fence/blade.
Is this occurring to all of your cuts? or just this one board?

Regardless, of whether it cuts square to the fence,
the end cut should match up to the blade.
The ‘scalloping’ and burning indicates dull blade
and/or a really hard/dense wood.

Often on hardwoods, I cut about a 1/32” long and then do a slow, milling/shaving cut to final length.

One thing to check is blade run-out. A bent arbor is always possible.

First…Unplug the saw!
Find a blade that fits the saw.
Lay it on a flat surface (glass/granite/table saw top).
Check around the edges to ensure it touches uniformly.
Mount the blade, after verifying that it is flat.
Lock the saw in the down position, and at 90 degrees.
Take a sharpened pencil and set it at the base of the fence,
point just touching the blade.
Rotate the blade by hand, noting any movement in the pencils position,
or any space appearing between the tip and the blade.
You shouldn’t see anything more than a dollar bill thickness apparent.

View devann's profile


2199 posts in 2112 days

#4 posted 01-23-2016 03:35 AM

It appears your saws miter setting is out of adjustment. This is a common problem. For me it happens when we are cutting boards that are stood up against the fence to be cut. The saw operator gets in a hurry and doesn’t keep the locking mechanism fully disengaged while transitioning between settings. This causes the miter settings to become compromised.

How to tell how much out of square your saw is cutting in relation to the saw fence; Get a straight board 20”-24” long. Place the board against the saw fence, centered side to side, laying flat on the saw base. If you’re using a 2×6 the 5 1/2” side of the board should be resting on the saw base, the 1 1/2” side against the saw fence. With the saw set at zero degrees cut the board in half. Leaving one half alone, flip the other half over and press the two edges of the cut back together. If your saw isn’t cutting properly it will show in the joint. From this you can easily assess what adjustments need to be made to correct the cuts made by the saw.

From my experience some brands of saw are easier to reset than others. Hopefully yours is one of the easy ones.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

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