LumberJocks

Grain Filler question

  • Advertise with us

« back to Finishing forum

Forum topic by shoichi posted 01-16-2016 02:04 PM 653 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View shoichi's profile

shoichi

13 posts in 327 days


01-16-2016 02:04 PM

Hello there,
I decided as my first wood working project to make a wooden chandelier. I had everything planned. My finish schedule was going to be as follows
1- Sand to 220
2- BLO and cured for 7 days
3- Dewaxed Shellac as a sealer
4- Fill the pores with Crystalac.
5- top coat.
So I am in step 2 right now and have hit a road-block. I just found out that the Crystalac grain filler I ordered off of Amazon cannot be shipped to me. I tried to get my hands on Aqua Coat Grain Filler and even that is impossible to get where I live and wont be shipped. I went to Home depot and Lows and neither had any grain fillers. They have the wood fillers that’s good for filling up big holes but not ideal for pores.
So what do I do now that the boiled linseed has already cured. Should I shellac sealer on and then wet sand the surface? Should I wet sand first to fill the pores and then put my sealer on? If I wet sand it now, then do I have to wait for a few days again for the new coat of BLO to cure/dry before I put the shellac sealer on? Can I use Danish Oil over cured BLO to fill the pores? I have heard Watco Danish Oil is water based and I am afraid it may not work well over blo.
Sorry for the newbie question. Thank you very much for advance.


13 replies so far

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8256 posts in 2894 days


#1 posted 01-16-2016 03:07 PM

Watco is OIL based. You can wet sand with Watco as a wetting agent. That will create a slurry. Allow it to tack and wipe it off with burlap. The dry sand. It’s a 3-4 day process. Watco dries pretty slow.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View crank49's profile

crank49

3981 posts in 2436 days


#2 posted 01-16-2016 06:50 PM

My Dad made his own filler from fine sanding dust and shellac. Rubbed it on with burlap.
He was a floor finisher for 50 years so I feel sure he knew a thing or two about fillers.

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

View BurlyBob's profile

BurlyBob

3688 posts in 1731 days


#3 posted 01-16-2016 07:07 PM

I’ve heard of that process Gene mentioned. I’m definitely going to try it on my next red oak project.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2155 days


#4 posted 01-17-2016 01:58 AM

Very good advice above. In the future, sand to 180, fill the pores/grain with color matched Timbermate grain filler, sand to 220 (or more if you like), THEN begin finish application.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8256 posts in 2894 days


#5 posted 01-17-2016 01:27 PM

I use the Watco Method for it’s simplicity and it works really well, Bob. But, Michael’s and Andy’s suggestions are good ones, too.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View WoodNSawdust's profile

WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 641 days


#6 posted 01-17-2016 02:43 PM

If your purpose is simply to fill the pores so you have a flat surface build up a thick surface with shellac and sand down till everything is level. This may take a while.

If your purpose is to change the color of the pores so the piece looks old then you need colored pore filler.

Where are you located that you can’t get finishing products shipped to you?

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View Benvolio's profile

Benvolio

148 posts in 1396 days


#7 posted 01-17-2016 09:25 PM

mixing danish oil and pumice powder always works a treat. Rub it in accross the grain, then once it’s cured sand along the grain.

-- Ben, England.

View RogerM's profile

RogerM

764 posts in 1864 days


#8 posted 01-18-2016 01:16 AM

Wunderfil Wood Filler is water based and comes in 8 colors. It can be thinned and used as a grain filler. See
http://www.rockler.com/wunderfil-wood-filler-8-oz-colors

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View shoichi's profile

shoichi

13 posts in 327 days


#9 posted 01-18-2016 03:16 PM

Thank you everyone for great great advice. my apologies for writing back a few days late.

i live in toronto canada and for some reason, dewaxed shellac and crystalac grain filler is no where to be found here. i’ve checked and visited probbly 30 stores in total. most of the HDs in my area and the rest smaller shops, Lee Valley and woodcraft stores and so on…

i have wet sanded before using Danish oil and it worked great. this time, i wasn’t sure if after having applied BLO and letting it cure for a week, wet sanding wish Danish oil was a good idea because then i’d have to let it dry again for a couple of more days…. this project is due on on Jan 26th so i really can’t afford to sit a few days for the oil to dry since i still have to put 3 top coats on.. but at this point i am gonna try the danish oil and pumice powder and hope for the best..

thanks everyone for your advice… will post a picture once it’s done.

View WoodNSawdust's profile

WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 641 days


#10 posted 01-18-2016 03:41 PM

I have seen Shellac on LeeValley’s web site. I don’t know if they carry it in their retail stores.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4034 posts in 1816 days


#11 posted 01-18-2016 04:06 PM

Grain filler should be the first step not the fourth. At this point I would wet sand with Watco as Gene suggests then move on to the other steps, skipping the Crystalac.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View shoichi's profile

shoichi

13 posts in 327 days


#12 posted 01-18-2016 04:38 PM

You’re right bondogaposis,

this is my first major project and i messed up…

if i was to use watco danish oil to fill the grain, should i wait a day between each attempt for the oil to cure? This would add two more days to my schedule but i guess it is what it is

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8256 posts in 2894 days


#13 posted 01-20-2016 04:12 PM

I usually give the Danish oil+sanding 72 hours to cure before doing a top coat. Depending on your preferences, another coat of finish may not be necessary after the oil+sanding slurry has been scrubbed off.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com