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Forum topic by Holbs posted 01-14-2016 01:03 AM 1201 views 1 time favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Holbs

1378 posts in 1495 days


01-14-2016 01:03 AM

Topic tags/keywords: unisaw

I picked up my used Delta Unisaw yesterday for $500. Got it home, dis-assembled fence, rail, extention, removed from truck and tucked away in the shop before calling it a night. With this being my first big boy table saw (coming from a Bosch 4100), I am somewhat at a loss at where to begin tune ups and refurbishing here and there. Also, I am very keen on safety. I know there is no easy way to install a riving knife like the one that came on my Bosch. I am no metalsmith so fabricating one is out of the question. I know there is the more spendy BORK option (he lists Delta Unisaw as compatible), also those neat little MJ splitters that you fit into your ZCI.
For now, it’s tearing the table saw down, refurbishing what I can, and re-assembling. It came from a cultured marble contractor that he used this Unisaw with a diamond blade. Surprisingly, the inside compartment is really nice looking: no rust or damage. The cast iron table top I know how to fix up. I have some heavy research to do about arbor settings, bearings, etc. It’s cool that it came with the overhead blade guard as I am sure I can retrofit some overhead dust collection, as I have to also research lower dust collection.
What are the key things I need to look into, is the question I should ask.
Here are some pictures:

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"


26 replies so far

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 952 days


#1 posted 01-14-2016 01:24 AM

Pull the top. Drop the motor. Pull the arbor and change the bearings (many videos out there). Thoroughly clean everything and reassemble.

Use dry moly lube. If you want.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1378 posts in 1495 days


#2 posted 01-14-2016 01:29 AM

I heard pain in butt to re-install top and re-align. But if I want to start fresh and know everything there is about this machine, I’ll follow Fridge’s advice. Certainly looks to be a lot less taking apart and less parts than the 15” Jet planer I did :)

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#3 posted 01-14-2016 01:30 AM

Alignment and adjustment procedures are in the manual. New bearings and belts will be about $50 and are easy to replace. If you don’t want a bork or mj splitter, there is always the Delta disappearing splitter that works great with overarm guards (it was originally introduced with the Unigard – you may already have it).

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Aligning the top is a piece of cake… couple taps and you are done.

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1378 posts in 1495 days


#4 posted 01-14-2016 01:36 AM

Thanks MrUnix..didn’t know that existed. $70+ for a safety feature that I like.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

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MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#5 posted 01-14-2016 01:40 AM

Thanks MrUnix..didn t know that existed. $70+ for a safety feature that I like.
- Holbs

It looks like you have a Uniguard, so you might already have one installed.. It mounts on the trunnion behind the blade. Here is what it looks like in the down position (with the table top removed):

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

2673 posts in 2650 days


#6 posted 01-14-2016 01:54 AM

Wow, how did you get that thing into and out of your truck? Looks very heavy.

-- Allen, Colorado

View ThomasChippendale's profile

ThomasChippendale

244 posts in 398 days


#7 posted 01-14-2016 03:35 AM

I just changed the bearings on mine, an 80’s model . Be extremely careful in removing the arbor casting, I cracked mine and am now shopping for a new part from an older machine as it it discontinued. When you loosen the clamping bolt, try pulling the key from the keyway first and you should not have to exert force , if you feel something is hanging its probably because it is not rotated high enough. The rest is pretty straight forward, just need a wood block with a 3\4 inch hole to tap the bearing back in place. I warmed mine on the stove and put the arbor shaft in the freezer for 30 minutes.

Here is how I lined-up the blade with the table afterwards, runs much smoother with the new bearings, they were available at the local bearing store, they are quite common 17mm ID, 40mm OD, 12mm wide. Buy the better ones, SKF not made in China, they run $10 each here.

-- PJ

View Harry's profile

Harry

71 posts in 646 days


#8 posted 01-14-2016 04:03 AM



I heard pain in butt to re-install top and re-align. But if I want to start fresh and know everything there is about this machine, I ll follow Fridge s advice. Certainly looks to be a lot less taking apart and less parts than the 15” Jet planer I did :)

- Holbs

It’s not hard at all and after seeing what you did with the Jet (by the way, I have the same one) should be easy for you. Why not vacuum, blow it out, vacuum and lube. Crank it up and see how it runs.

-- Harry - Professional amateur

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#9 posted 01-14-2016 04:07 AM

runs much smoother with the new bearings, they were available at the local bearing store, they are quite common 17mm ID, 40mm OD, 12mm wide. Buy the better ones, SKF not made in China, they run $10 each here.
- ThomasChippendale

Or more commonly known as 6203-2RS :)

You might want to also consider replacing the motor bearings, which should be 6205’s (pull them first to verify though). SKF’s are good, but based on several conversations I’ve had with the fine folks at Accurate, Nachi’s are just as good and slightly less expensive. Last time I ordered the Nachi’s from Accurate, the 6203’s were $2.69 a piece, and the 6205’s were $6.41 a piece. If you need belts, you can get a matched set of Jason Unimatch A24 (4L260) belts for about $14 shipped.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View CharleyL's profile

CharleyL

197 posts in 2831 days


#10 posted 01-14-2016 04:43 AM

If you pull the top, keep track of the shims between the top and the base around the bolts. You will want to put them back in the same positions that they came from on re-assembly. If you don’t, the top may be distorted. Lining up the top to the blade is fairly easy and is covered in the manuals www.owwm.com has lots of information on Unisaws. Go there as well as here for any help you may need.

You have purchased the last table saw you will ever need. Don’t skimp on the re-building parts needs. Do it once and do it right. You should never need to do it again in your lifetime. Unisaws are battleships and should last several lifetimes in a home shop.

Charley

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1378 posts in 1495 days


#11 posted 01-14-2016 05:18 AM

Bob.. with rails, fence, extension table removed…the saw is not THAT kinda heavy. Easy to flip it over with the help of my truck’s tailgate. Hmm… surprised there is no youtube video of it yet. It’s simple..I did it solo and would confidently do it again.
MrUnix.. I purchased Nachi bearings when I redid my 15” Jet planer, and would do so again.
Charley… shim? OK.. I’ll be on the look out for them. Probably number then or something so they go back to the same bolt they came from.
I’ll probably start a refurb blog this coming weekend from start to finish. Nothing fancy as new paint job or such.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7216 posts in 2842 days


#12 posted 01-14-2016 10:37 AM


Bob.. with rails, fence, extension table removed…the saw is not THAT kinda heavy. Easy to flip it over with the help of my truck s tailgate. Hmm… surprised there is no youtube video of it yet. It s simple..I did it solo and would confidently do it again…..
- Holbs

Congrats on the saw….what a great buy. My guess is that there are no videos unloading a Uni solo because most people would rather employ the help of the camera operator! ;-)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Roger's profile

Roger

19883 posts in 2270 days


#13 posted 01-14-2016 02:04 PM

Congrats on your purchase Holbs. You pretty much stole this one. I see the pic of the top of this fine saw of how some idiot placed their cups, glasses and/or whatever on it. Well, like my pool table, everyone knows, “nothing goes on my pool table”...............the same applies to table saws, jointers, and any other flat top tools in the house or in the shop. Good luck with it. I still think you got a gr8 machine here. Hopefully, the top can be cleaned up a bit. Maybe a blog on how you accomplish this task would be gr8. Thnx in advance.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3947 posts in 1959 days


#14 posted 01-14-2016 02:34 PM

Keep track of the shims in each corner as you remove the table, mark them in a way you can put them back in exactly the same place they were when you started. One more option on the splitter: a Shark Guard.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View ThomasChippendale's profile

ThomasChippendale

244 posts in 398 days


#15 posted 01-14-2016 02:51 PM

I taped the shims on the top as I removed them in their respective corner with masking tape.

-- PJ

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